Help! She died today and won't turn over -UPDATE it's a spun bearing

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Ok, thinking more. Your crankshaft is not going to drop even if all maincaps are removed. Transmission input shaft won't let it.
Might be a dumb thought, but what if he engaged the clutch, that will essentially disconnect the transmission from the equation right? I know it's not in great, but if you're worried about something in the transmission sticking it....
 
The main cap bolts are loose but the caps won't budge?
Got a mallet?
Mallet and a super thin flat head got under the corner and broke it free!

I'm no expert, but I think this looks pretty good! All the rod connector bearings I pulled looked just like this does. Oily, mirror finish, no pitting. Seems pretty fresh to me, and when this motor runs up to speed, it really does do that sewing machine thing. Super smooth. I pulled another main and it was the same. Couldn't get the back to break free though with the frame, exhaust and bell housing in the way.

main bearing front.jpg


mb 2.jpg


mb3.jpg
 
Might be a dumb thought, but what if he engaged the clutch, that will essentially disconnect the transmission from the equation right? I know it's not in great, but if you're worried about something in the transmission sticking it....
I don't think it's dumb thought. I actually tried that and spun the flywheel. Still locked both ways. I think the crank would still stay on the same plane and not drop, but I don't need it to at this point. I'm gonna certainly open the other 2 main bearings, but I feel pretty confident a spun bearing is not the issue at this point.
 
Those look good, but it only takes one bearing to seize everything. Your running out of options! Dors the crank have some endplay, it should move fore and aft slightly. Just prying in-between the cap and crank journal.
 
I would pull the timing cover at this point. Also I don't see any point in replacing this engine until you know what, if anything, is destroyed beyond reasonable repair.
 
Confirm all the bearing are ok, cant imagine a cam gear putting up with a prybar on the crankshaft? Cam gear should be fiber if original..
 
Dropping the trans is a big, hard job. Re-installing a trans is a bigger, harder job.
Let us exhaust all other possibe remedies before we resort to that
An H4xF plus bellhousing, transfer case and oil might weight 220-230 lbs. transmission jacks are a thing
 
Maybe this is an optical illusion, or just a bad camera angle, but it might be worth taking another look at this. Looks like possibly a broken tooth.

2f.jpg
 
An H4xF plus bellhousing, transfer case and oil might weight 220-230 lbs. transmission jacks are a thing
Maybe I'm just biased because i had to pull my tranny a year ago for a clutch job.
Do you happen to know how much an SM465, NP203 and a Toyota one piece TC weigh all together?
And having to stab that transmission input shaft through the throwout bearing, held on by just those little clips has always seemed to me to be the hardest job on a LandCruiser.
I am aware of tranny jacks, I'm more of a many ratchet straps hanging from a 4x4 piece of lumber supported by the dash and tailgate kind of guy.
 
Those look good, but it only takes one bearing to seize everything. Your running out of options! Dors the crank have some endplay, it should move fore and aft slightly. Just prying in-between the cap and crank journal.
It does have a tiny amount of play back and forth
 
I would pull the timing cover at this point. Also I don't see any point in replacing this engine until you know what, if anything, is destroyed beyond reasonable repair.
If I can save it without pulling it I want to. my worry though is if I'm pulling the engine (likely not me,likey paying someone as I don't have the space to really do it here) and reparing it, I might rather just make the move to a fresh motor now. Maybe that's silly
 
Cam gear should be fiber if original..
I think his cam gear is mostly steel with the thin strip of some bonded rubbery type stuff between the two pieces...
 
Maybe that's silly
Depends on what's wrong with it. Pulling the engine isn't a big expense so I wouldn't let that step be the breaking point.
 
Pulling the radiator is easy. 2 hose clamps, a bucket and 8 bolts holding it to the radiator supports. Slides up and out. Might need to borrow a puller for the crank pulley, but once that is off the timing cover just unbolts.
 
Those are good looking bearings. I still think you can fix it in situ (Latin for "not pulling the engine").
 
You've made some good headway. Lots of items eliminated.

Investigate that tooth from post #151 a bit more, and share some more photos if you can get them. That would be a very odd failure indeed for a few reasons.

Looks like you still have another main bearing to get pulled. You won't have the full story on the failure until you get that off. Keep at it.
 
Maybe I'm just biased because i had to pull my tranny a year ago for a clutch job.
Do you happen to know how much an SM465, NP203 and a Toyota one piece TC weigh all together?
And having to stab that transmission input shaft through the throwout bearing, held on by just those little clips has always seemed to me to be the hardest job on a LandCruiser.
I am aware of tranny jacks, I'm more of a many ratchet straps hanging from a 4x4 piece of lumber supported by the dash and tailgate kind of guy.
Not an SM465, but a 4L60 and Np205. Id say you can get away with dropping without a tranny jack but it really shines when you try to put it back in. I bought this one the day my tranny blew from Harbor Freight. It was not expensive.
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