Help! She died today and won't turn over -UPDATE it's a spun bearing (1 Viewer)

Joined
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Hoping this isn't the start of a bad news thread but, I'm scared it's going to be. For those reading this that don't know me, I'm far from an expert on even some of the basics on engines so bare with me as this may a stupid, obvious one. I've managed to get my knuckles dirty and fix a few things on this truck in the last year, but I'm just not an experienced wrench so I'm needing some direction.

I was driving 2 minutes after leaving my house and the truck just died as I rolled into an intersection. No noise, no clunk. Just a slow die out. I tried the key and nothing. Managed to get it rolled out of the way and starting thinking what it could be. I tried the key again and it clicked but didn't turn the engine, just like any vehicle will do when the battery is too weak to turn it over. I remembered I had just done the power steering box a few days ago and at one point during the fluid fill, it overflowed onto the alternator directly below. I cleaned it the best I could but I'm sure it got all over it and maybe onto the internals. So I'm thinking I probably killed the alternator and just ran until the battery died. I tried turning on the lights and nothing. Battery seemed totally dead.

I get the truck towed home and onto the street in front of my house. I normally park it up a small hill driveway and on a flat spot next to my house so I'm thinking I need to get it up there for the night. I took the battery out and put it on the charger and grabbed the battery out of my Sequoia and put it in the 55, figuring I would start it and I could drive it for 10 seconds up the hill and park it until I can swap the alternator out. Turn the key and SAME thing....one click on the starter and then nothing. It also seems like it's triggering some protection circuit or something because when I tried to turn the key again right after the light on the dash for charging doesn't light up and the starter doesn't even click. Got the 55 battery charged and back in, turned the key and same thing again. That's where it sits now, parked on the street and won't turn over.

I was going to grab a pry bar and see if the the motor would even spin, but it got dark and I had to do some other stuff to wrap up the weekend. So guys, what's my next move? I'm looking all over the house for my Haynes manual because I think there's a trouble shooting section at the end? lol. Need some guidance! I'm worried this thing is locked up and the starter is trying to turn and it can't because the motor is locked up. Finger's crossed that's not the problem!

Thanks in advance
 
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Brisbane
Check the points and condensor in the distributor and also the lead from the ignition coil. My 45 played up like what you've described and they were the culprit.

Good luck.
 
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Check the points and condensor in the distributor and also the lead from the ignition coil. My 45 played up like what you've described and they were the culprit.

Good luck.
I have a Pertronix in there, but I'll for sure check the condenser and lead to the coil. I did think something in that area might be the culprit at first, but it all looked fine, although I didn't look all that closely. Opened the dist. up and the Pertonox didn't look all burned up or anything, although I'm sure they don't always show burn marks when they go. Didn't confirm the coil lead.

Thanks for the reply!
 
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The first thing I would do is remove both battery cables, if they are reasonably new then clean the spots were they bolt to and reattach them and snug the bolts. If they are older cables then just buy new ones and install them before you do anything else.
Sounds like a bad ground to me.
 

bobm

WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
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Does it have fuel cutoff solenoid on carb???
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Battery cables. take them off the battery, clean good, and then tighten with no movement at all when they are on the battery posts.

Even the slightest bit of wiggle in the cable clamps at the post it too much.
 
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So good and bad news...I went out just now and sure enough the ground cable was a mess. The cable was essentially not even attached the the terminal. The end was shrink tubed so I couldn't see how loose it was. Put on a new terminal, and the lights in the dash light for charge was way brighter than it has been. Turned the key and....locked! The starter (which is about 6 months old and a 60 series upgrade) feels like it's trying to crank but its not turning. Just a loud clunk.

Gotta get on some work stuff this morning but this afternoon I'm gonna drop the skip plate, pull the plugs and see if the motor turns. My question is if the ground got loose and stalled the truck, how could that cause anything in the engine to go? Or did I just have just some crazy random the ground got loose and the engine blew at the exact same time??? Again, not the most experienced motor head over here, but that seems unlikely...

I suppose the starter could still be the issue. Maybe I dismount it and try it to see if it spins? Sure sounds like it's trying to turn and the flywheel won't go though
 
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My question is if the ground got loose and stalled the truck, how could that cause anything in the engine to go?
All kinds of bad stuff happens with high resistance connections but I wouldn’t jump to conclusions yet. Take a day and replace both battery cables and buy a couple extra ground cables then go over all of the electrical connections in the engine bay (remove, clean, reinstall) then add an a couple extra grounds ( engine, frame, body).
 
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These motors don't like to seize even when you try to kill them. I think you are chasing electrical demons.

I second, or fourth err whatever, on the new cables. BUT! Do not just buy the biggest gauge you can find. That is actually just as bad as getting some that are too thin.
 
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These motors don't like to seize even when you try to kill them. I think you are chasing electrical demons.

I second, or fourth err whatever, on the new cables. BUT! Do not just buy the biggest gauge you can find. That is actually just as bad as getting some that are too thin.
I sure as hell hope so. The ground wire to the frame is in very good shape and looks like it was probably replaced back when the PO went through this truck back in 08ish. To me it looks to be 4 gauge, (based on passed experience doing car audio)
 

WarDamnEagle

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So good and bad news...I went out just now and sure enough the ground cable was a mess. The cable was essentially not even attached the the terminal. The end was shrink tubed so I couldn't see how loose it was. Put on a new terminal, and the lights in the dash light for charge was way brighter than it has been. Turned the key and....locked! The starter (which is about 6 months old and a 60 series upgrade) feels like it's trying to crank but its not turning. Just a loud clunk.

Gotta get on some work stuff this morning but this afternoon I'm gonna drop the skip plate, pull the plugs and see if the motor turns. My question is if the ground got loose and stalled the truck, how could that cause anything in the engine to go? Or did I just have just some crazy random the ground got loose and the engine blew at the exact same time??? Again, not the most experienced motor head over here, but that seems unlikely...

I suppose the starter could still be the issue. Maybe I dismount it and try it to see if it spins? Sure sounds like it's trying to turn and the flywheel won't go though
One clunk is a classic symptom of starter contacts sticking. Definitely replace the cables but then give the starter a good whack with a soft faced mallet while someone else tries the starter (assuming you are still having trouble of course). Typically you can get it to start and then you will be certain that you need new contacts and possibly plunger (I always replace both). Or just a new starter if you don't want to mess with the contacts.
 
Joined
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Check all the connections at the starter

One clunk is a classic symptom of starter contacts sticking. Definitely replace the cables but then give the starter a good whack with a soft faced mallet while someone else tries the starter (assuming you are still having trouble of course). Typically you can get it to start and then you will be certain that you need new contacts and possibly plunger (I always replace both). Or just a new starter if you don't want to mess with the contacts.
Feels to me like this is what's happening. Had an instinct to whack it. lol. The light on the charge indicator was soooo much brighter after the new terminal went in and I could feel the starter clunk way harder than it was yesterday. New cable to the starter is easy enough. That one doesn't look as new at the ground to the engine.

I have the original starter in the garage and it worked fine when I replaced it last year. Replaced it with the 60 starter last year as a pre-emptive repair. Suppose I could bolt that back up and see what's what
 
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I have some experience crawling underneath and giving the starter hell with a mallet, wrench, or whatever is handy. Don't be afraid to hit it hard. Sounds like the starter may be stuck. If it starts after a good beating, swap in your old one.
Sometimes all of us tend to over-think these things.
 
Joined
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I have some experience crawling underneath and giving the starter hell with a mallet, wrench, or whatever is handy. Don't be afraid to hit it hard. Sounds like the starter may be stuck. If it starts after a good beating, swap in your old one.
Sometimes all of us tend to over-think these things.
Re-thinking what happened, I stalled as I was rolling into the intersection... panicked and think I hit the starter as I was rolling and maybe the fly wheel was still spinning? Could the starter gear have gotten jammed because I hit it while it was rolling? Gonna pull that starter in a few hours...Also, I forgot my pry bar can grab the pully without pulling the skid plate so I did that and it feels locked up. I've turned it this way in the past and it'll move. it ain't moving.

then again not sure if the ground was off and maybe the starter didn't move? I don't know. I recall it wanting to clunk once maybe...
 

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