Help find build w/frame bolted not riveted (1 Viewer)

[Tojo64]

I'm working on a resto mod. And Apparently I've been searching in all the wrong places to find more info on a build I saw some time ago. The mud member removed the frame rivets and used high grade bolts to replace. I'm very interested in doing the same. I feel high grade bolts with nor lock washers would get me what I am looking for but would like more input and to read up on what those before me have done.

Any help would be very much appreciated.

 

[B y r o n]

Why do you feel the need to remove the original factory frame rivets?

 

[Vossie]

sure you can replace rivets that may need replacing with good bolts, and you can use bolts on other mods you might do to the chassis, but i wouldnt actively go and replace every rivet on a chassis just because. mr yoda made sure them things were put in nice and tight. took me 45min per rivet to get em out when i did my power steering conversion.

 

[Tojo64]

Byron, I have several location where cracks in the frame seem to stem from the rivets. The cracks run long way and I think just separating the channels and replacing the bad section would be easier.

It would also allow me to remove all rust between the two "c" channels at what I would believe to be a lesser cost than dipping. But then again I've done minimal dip research to date.

Vossie, I would definitely need to develop a new removal technique for the rivets. The steering box rivets took me about 15 min each and even that was aggravating.

 

[Vossie]

Byron, I have several location where cracks in the frame seem to stem from the rivets. The cracks run long way and I think just separating the channels and replacing the bad section would be easier.

It would also allow me to remove all rust between the two "c" channels at what I would believe to be a lesser cost than dipping. But then again I've done minimal dip research to date.

Vossie, I would definitely need to develop a new removal technique for the rivets. The steering box rivets took me about 15 min each and even that was aggravating.

Ja, i don't know why, but they were real buggers to come out. The only thing I think could have sped it up for me was maybe drilling them out. But I had no drill machine at the time, it had been taken out on a job by my brother and I only had the pedestal drill

 

[sadam_husain]

I've got a few rivet's replaced with bolts on my 40, even with nyloc nuts they come loose from time to time

 

[shawnfj40]

I have replaced a single crossmember and bolted it in. I don't think I would be comfortable replacing all of the rivets with bolts though.

 

[Coolerman]

That might have been my build. I replaced the rear bumper and supports on my 1971 with ones from a 1974 due to rust. If you are worried about them coming loose, just tack weld the nuts and bolts in place. If you need to remove down the road, grind away the tack welds.

 

[tweek99]

Byron, I have several location where cracks in the frame seem to stem from the rivets. The cracks run long way and I think just separating the channels and replacing the bad section would be easier.

It would also allow me to remove all rust between the two "c" channels at what I would believe to be a lesser cost than dipping. But then again I've done minimal dip research to date.

Vossie, I would definitely need to develop a new removal technique for the rivets. The steering box rivets took me about 15 min each and even that was aggravating.

I replaced bad frame sections and plug welded the pieces. Dipping is cheap if you are already torn down that far. I hot dip galvanized my frame for $107. They had it for a week, and that's only because it took me a couple days to get it back. This site will show you a close location to you. I did mine in Hastings Nebraska

Galvanizer Locations | American Galvanizers Association

 

[SteveH]

Hot rivets expand and lock in place as they cool (if you read up on such things), which is why they are so hard to remove. Bolts/nuts won't ever be able to do that. I'm not saying that removing rivets to service the frame is bad, it's just that you should know the mechanics of how Mr. T designed and built the chassis from the outset.

 

[White Stripe]

Use a air hammer to shear the head off the rivet with a chisel bit. Then take a punch bit on the air hammer and punch them out of the frame. Takes about 90 seconds per rivet. My air hammer is a bad mama jamma, so that may be to my aid. With this method I could probably have a frame completely apart in about 2 hours. I would use nylock nuts and red Loctite and you should be good. Don't be afraid to crank them down tight. Grade 5 or grade 8 would be sufficient I would think. I do remember seeing a frame bolted together, but no idea how to search for the thread.

 

[Tojo64]

I replaced bad frame sections and plug welded the pieces. Dipping is cheap if you are already torn down that far. I hot dip galvanized my frame for $107. They had it for a week, and that's only because it took me a couple days to get it back. This site will show you a close location to you. I did mine in Hastings Nebraska

Galvanizer Locations | American Galvanizers Association

Tweek99 thank you very much for the link! There's a location within 20 minutes of me!

 

[Splangy]

Are you sure the forces that caused the cracks will be gone once you remove the rivets and install the bolts?

 

[Tojo64]

Worst nightmare came true today. Instead of taking it to get dipped I sent it off to a Sandblaster withought dissasmbling. Picked it up in a hurry on my lunch break today and dropped it off at home. Just spent an hour scraping crud out of the boxed portion of the frame. Thinking of sending it back to them to do it right. But no concerned of their capability. what a pain!

 

[Jdc1]

On the bright side, people here in the east would kill for that clean of a start.

 

[69LC]

The 4th pic shows me that there has been enough corrosion between the Inner and outer rails to separate the two between rivets and that the blasting couldn't possibly remove it all.

Aside from pulling the two apart I cannot see how you could get rid of all of the rust. If all of the effort that would take doesn't seem reasonable maybe find a better frame?

 

[mdsims]

Lesson learned there. No one will ever spend as much time or do as good of a job on your project than, you guessed it, you will! My frame rails are filled with dirt and mud and I'll be spending some time with a hose, wire brush and whatever else it takes to guarantee the channels are clear before spending any money at a shop. Just can't trust them all. Was thinking eCoat and then topcoat it myself.

 

[Tojo64]

JDC I've heard that from my uncle. Most my family is back there in NH. I was born there.

69LC that was I was thinking. I could tell prior to blast it was bad in some areas which is why I thought splitting it would be the best path. I need to do some research to see if I can find a product that will stop the rust and live with it? I have POR15 but will look at Eastman products. Or I could split it. I really wanted to keep this frame though because of the pain titling is.

Mdsims good point! Me being anal combined with the abrasive blasting I'm used to doesn't help here. I work in aerospace casting production.

I'm not planning a full resto either. So maybe I just deal with it as best as possible and hope it lasts atleast another 50 years.

 

[Tojo64]

Just counted. Splitting would require removing another 56 rivets. I've already removed 48... hmm. Could probably complete with two labor hours, $80 worth of drill bit resharps, and like $200 worth of grade 12.9 bolts and nord Lock washers.

 

[White Stripe]

I would definitely split the frame, not that big of a deal. I would think grade 5 would be fine. 56 grade 5 bolts is a lot of holding power. I use 10X 1.25 metric bolts on mine. You have to drill the holes just a hair bigger.