- Thread starter
- #481
Good question. I’m not sure if they are the same across the bows only that the b-pillar bow is the same from side to side. Give me a call whenever.
Builds Helga: 1966 FJ40 FST
- Thread starter KennyBob
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
That would be awesome. I can source hardware without issue. Let me know what you need from me and how much you want to print and ship one.
Chuck
- Thread starter
- #483
Nothing for the print just shipping would be cool. Also, full disclosure that this is very much still in R&D.
You the man, that's just awesome!
I totally understand. As I said, I was putting off dealing with that adapter and that's holding up my conversion. I've done my tank mods for the return and have my fuel pump mount sorted. I've installed my second temp sensor and am ready to weld in the O2 bung (as opposed to the supplied clamped-on mount). The throttle body adapter was a hurdle I hadn't fully come to terms with yet. We can connect via PM to exchange details. Thank you!
Radiator
- Thread starter
- #486
With all of this cooling system discussions on @Roastchestnuts and other’s build threads and more own cooling issues I decided to continue throwing parts at my rig. Ordered a new OEM radiator (16400-49356) from Grieco Toyota because it was the cheapest out-the-door. Got it yesterday and checked it out this morning. Overall I’m pretty impressed with the packaging. They clearly opened it up to add some extra protection and stash the drain assembly separately. Unfortunately, those efforts didn’t prevent all damage. Besides a couple of minimally bent fins the bottommost part of the tank and inlet are slightly bent/dented. Hopefully the inlet is an easy fix.
- Thread starter
- #487
Bling bling.
Makes the rest of the engine that much s***tier looking.
Makes the rest of the engine that much s***tier looking.
Sniper adapter 3.0
- Thread starter
- #488
Been tinkering with this thing again… this is my 3rd iteration. This time it’s steel! 3D printed one was nice but I think I’d eventually need some awnry-er material to hold up to the heat and/or fuel. Whatchy’all think?
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #489
Been a minute again. Haven’t gotten a lot done but I’ve been tinkering quite a bit. Decided I’m done with the mechanical fuel pump to surge tank setup I’ve had. The catalyst for that decision comes down to the last time I drove it on the highway. For whatever reason the relatively new mechanical pump couldn’t keep the surge tank full at highway speed anymore. That’s my eduamacated guess-timate anyway. First attempt to remedy that situation was an external pump that sounded like a mini airplane trying to take off. Am I the only person that gets crazy loud pumps? This is the second one I’ve tried. The first being the one that Holley sells for the sniper. Both were outrageously loud.
Enter the in-tank pump setup from Tanks, Inc. obviously I’ve been attempting to avoid cutting a massive hole in my tank. But I’d rather be able to drive the thing without being nervous about a breakdown every time. After much measuring, head-scratching and redrawing lines, I’ve successfully installed the thing and just need to finish plumbing and wiring. Ultimately I landed it where it is due to location of baffles and where the sending unit arm is. Instructions say to turn the tray left or right but there’s not a way to do that without cutting into the internal baffles. Where I have it allows the sender float to land in the tray when empty. One hiccup I didn’t have a good solution for is the drain flange protruding into the tank. Unfortunately this forced the tray to sit slightly above the bottom of the tank. Waiting on parts and time to install them per usual. Sorry for the novel, enjoy some progress pics.
Enter the in-tank pump setup from Tanks, Inc. obviously I’ve been attempting to avoid cutting a massive hole in my tank. But I’d rather be able to drive the thing without being nervous about a breakdown every time. After much measuring, head-scratching and redrawing lines, I’ve successfully installed the thing and just need to finish plumbing and wiring. Ultimately I landed it where it is due to location of baffles and where the sending unit arm is. Instructions say to turn the tray left or right but there’s not a way to do that without cutting into the internal baffles. Where I have it allows the sender float to land in the tray when empty. One hiccup I didn’t have a good solution for is the drain flange protruding into the tank. Unfortunately this forced the tray to sit slightly above the bottom of the tank. Waiting on parts and time to install them per usual. Sorry for the novel, enjoy some progress pics.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #490
In other news… I have yet another distraction to keep me from giving Helga the attention she needs. Some would say I have a problem…
Decided to get into another 80 for my daily. This time one that I have wanted for many years and one that would give me new challenges and learning opportunities. Previous owner put new Nomad Sahara Copperhead wheels and Toyo Open Country AT3s on her. I think I’m in love. Plans at the moment are to keep her relatively stock unlike my last 80. I really want to just tinker with the engine and turbo to get a bit more power and leave the rest alone. Anywho, here she is in all of her JDM goodness!
Decided to get into another 80 for my daily. This time one that I have wanted for many years and one that would give me new challenges and learning opportunities. Previous owner put new Nomad Sahara Copperhead wheels and Toyo Open Country AT3s on her. I think I’m in love. Plans at the moment are to keep her relatively stock unlike my last 80. I really want to just tinker with the engine and turbo to get a bit more power and leave the rest alone. Anywho, here she is in all of her JDM goodness!
- Thread starter
- #491
Here we go again. I think this is the third or fourth time I’ve seen the front of this engine bare… hopefully this will be the last for a long time. Managed to cobble together the parts to make it more correct for the year.
Surprisingly Napa had the bypass hose and the upper rad hose. The lower they gave me didn’t seem right, plus I scored the metal lower pipe anyway.
I’m not a fan of this connection. Diameters don’t match. Maybe I can pull the one from the later pump off and use it.
Surprisingly Napa had the bypass hose and the upper rad hose. The lower they gave me didn’t seem right, plus I scored the metal lower pipe anyway.
I’m not a fan of this connection. Diameters don’t match. Maybe I can pull the one from the later pump off and use it.
- Thread starter
- #492
Oh and I finally buttoned up the fuel pump situation and reinstalled the passenger seat for the hundredth time. Pretty happy with it. One of these days I’ll make the rest of it look nice too.
Looks good! I think you are going to want to take your alternator bracket and beat that bend out it. The later pump base is thicker than the early one and when someone added the later pump to mine, they did the same thing and bent the bracket to make it work.
It was a bit of a journey to get everything back in place and thankfully it was pointed out to me by some very detail oriented mudders.
PNW 67 Patina Blue
@rainingagain , did your local Toyota dealer have the Truestart in stock, or was it a special order item? Nice work on your project! Andrew They had it in stock. The part number is 00544-24060-575. Just be careful not to get 00544-24F60-575. Positive is on the wrong side. Ask me how I know...
forum.ih8mud.com
PNW 67 Patina Blue
I bought a coolant hose kit that was supposed to have a bypass hose for my early style water pump (90916-01036). Nada. Since I had already opened up the kit, I was screwed so I started hacking. End result. Not bad but still not the best. I'll be looking for an correct hose.
forum.ih8mud.com
There is also a small amount of adjustment you can make on the lower bracket if needed.
- Thread starter
- #494
Funny you mention that. I think someone, somewhere advised to bend my original bracket to fit the later pump. I completely forgot about all that. Thanks!Looks good! I think you are going to want to take your alternator bracket and beat that bend out it. The later pump base is thicker than the early one and when someone added the later pump to mine, they did the same thing and bent the bracket to make it work.
It was a bit of a journey to get everything back in place and thankfully it was pointed out to me by some very detail oriented mudders.
PNW 67 Patina Blue
@rainingagain , did your local Toyota dealer have the Truestart in stock, or was it a special order item? Nice work on your project! Andrew They had it in stock. The part number is 00544-24060-575. Just be careful not to get 00544-24F60-575. Positive is on the wrong side. Ask me how I know...PNW 67 Patina Blue
I bought a coolant hose kit that was supposed to have a bypass hose for my early style water pump (90916-01036). Nada. Since I had already opened up the kit, I was screwed so I started hacking. End result. Not bad but still not the best. I'll be looking for an correct hose.
There is also a small amount of adjustment you can make on the lower bracket if needed.
- Thread starter
- #495
Little more progress this past weekend. Started trying to dig the windshield and hood hinge pins out to replace them with some @SMG pins. Didn’t get too far… bought some thin dremel cutoff wheels. We’ll see if that works. Only one broken bolt so far… knock on wood.
Also started on the caster shims. Decided to start with the back springs. Not sure if I have them the right way round. Wanted them to make the pinion angle match the tcase angle… easily turned I suppose. Currently fat part facing forward.
Also started on the caster shims. Decided to start with the back springs. Not sure if I have them the right way round. Wanted them to make the pinion angle match the tcase angle… easily turned I suppose. Currently fat part facing forward.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Did you measure your pinion angle in the rear?
I’d be surprised if putting the fat part forward would help you get a proper pinion angle or if you even need shims in the back at all.
- Thread starter
- #497
I did. It was 2.3 or something like that between the tcase flange and the pinion flange. I’m definitely leaning towards flipping them around.
RevISK
SILVER Star
It’s a bit of a challenge getting a good read without removing your driveshaft but doable.
Do you have them on the front yet?
77mustard40
SILVER Star
Kenny I have an old school angle finder but have found that using an APP on the phone is easiest. The TC flange is easy, on the diff you have to hold the phone and try to get a good reading. I started with no shim first and went from there, found that I didn't need a shim in the rear after switching out the tired OME springs for Skyjackers.
- Thread starter
- #500
Yeah it wasn’t the best. But I REALLY hate removing/reinstalling the driveshaft. I have not done the front yet. I’m not sure the front NEEDS them but I think it could use the caster.
