I am pretty sure I am just going to slice mine off with the die grinder. I dont see why it would not work without those tabs.
Builds Helga: 1966 FJ40 FST
- Thread starter KennyBob
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #442
Ended up slicing those tabs off after jacking with them for way too long. The material is just too thick to bend them into any usable shape.
Made a little progress after that…
Still have a ton to do contrary to the way it looks. The rear mounts on the fenders need some clearancing. It seems that the troa bows are slightly larger diameter than factory. Need to clear the threads for the rear corner brackets unless I want to dig out broken bolts
. And then of course I need to punch some holes and install the twist-lock fasteners. Pics to follow as I make more progress. Thanks to @Roastchestnuts for going first and posting pics.
Made a little progress after that…
Still have a ton to do contrary to the way it looks. The rear mounts on the fenders need some clearancing. It seems that the troa bows are slightly larger diameter than factory. Need to clear the threads for the rear corner brackets unless I want to dig out broken bolts
. And then of course I need to punch some holes and install the twist-lock fasteners. Pics to follow as I make more progress. Thanks to @Roastchestnuts for going first and posting pics.
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- Thread starter
- #443
Made some progress but still collecting and massaging parts on the soft top. Decided to throw the hard top doors on during one of the rare bits of rain we get in the Texas hill country.
Had to open the holes in the bottom rear brackets from Heritage Cruisers just a tickle to clear the bows. It may have just been the little burr left from the laser or water jet process but they are a tight fit.
Also put a wheel spacer on the spare to get the tire off the hinge and allow me to attach my fifth hubcap.
Had to open the holes in the bottom rear brackets from Heritage Cruisers just a tickle to clear the bows. It may have just been the little burr left from the laser or water jet process but they are a tight fit.
Also put a wheel spacer on the spare to get the tire off the hinge and allow me to attach my fifth hubcap.
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looking good! I have not had rain since I installed the soft top haha. I just installed my last turnbuckles today thus pretty much means I am done with my install.
Also love your early hub caps
- Thread starter
- #445
Thanks brother. Speaking of install… what did you use to secure the front corners of the top to the windshield frame?
I love them too. They are $$$ though. But then again, what ain’t $$$ on these things?
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I just used some bolts. but I may change it because it needs to be tighter right there. I have seen people use snaps. I think it would be cool to use two turn buckles. sorry for the late response btw.
- Thread starter
- #447
First road test with the new top. Decided to take advantage of the cooler weather yesterday and took the 40 to work. Didn’t realize it would be quite so rainy in the afternoon though. She did great for the most part. Still loud as hell and I’m still getting some over-cooling somehow.
I’m planning on doing some more adjustment on how the top fits and I need to address the top corners where the top meets the windshield. Got some water droplets coming in on the way home. Not sure what to do about that though.
I’m planning on doing some more adjustment on how the top fits and I need to address the top corners where the top meets the windshield. Got some water droplets coming in on the way home. Not sure what to do about that though.
You always like to see an older build thread pop up, then click through to the end and see that "hey that guy is still making progress." Truck looks good. Now I'm gonna go back and look through the rest of what you've done.
Also: I just used your link on brake parts and whatnot (your first parts order) to get me the wheel cylinder rebuilds I need on my new-to-me '69.
Also: I just used your link on brake parts and whatnot (your first parts order) to get me the wheel cylinder rebuilds I need on my new-to-me '69.
- Thread starter
- #449
Decided to tweak some stuff on the soft top this past weekend. I wasn’t happy with how it was looking, particularly the drinker side rear corner. Going to redo the footman loops at the corners to move them a bit lower and further back. Also decided I should try the windshield channel from TROA instead of the factory one that came with the truck. TBD on how all that turns out. Wish me luck!
Btw, I had to open up the TROA windshield channel just a tickle to allow the top to slide in. It would not get past halfway until I did that.
@Roastchestnuts, @Catching Neutral and @whisky did your windshield channel have a curve in it in the right direction? Mine has a slight curve but it seems to be upside down.
Oh. Also, did either of you set the b-pillar bow to a specific height?
Btw, I had to open up the TROA windshield channel just a tickle to allow the top to slide in. It would not get past halfway until I did that.
@Roastchestnuts, @Catching Neutral and @whisky did your windshield channel have a curve in it in the right direction? Mine has a slight curve but it seems to be upside down.
Oh. Also, did either of you set the b-pillar bow to a specific height?
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Hate to admit that I'm ignorant to this. I was having other work done on the cruiser when the top came in so I let them install it.
- Thread starter
- #451
No worries brother. Thanks!
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Thought the TROA was closer to the 9/67 plus channel, guess not. Style changed 9/67 because of the new single wiper that the arms were taller. I have a 67, 69 and 73 windshield channels. The early style should work on 1/75 and later with the wipers on the bottom of the windshield. Curious of a good end picture of the TROA channel. On the OEM style I found it earlier to insert the top into channel then top inside out on the hood. Bolt channel to the windshield. Flip the top over and keep the B pillar on the top close to the windshield and work the door header cord in. Doing a little on one side then the other.
It harder trying slide the top into the channel bolted to the windshield. Besides dealing with moving the top the wiper are very close to the channel and just something else to fight while trying to slid the top in the channel. Only FJ40s I've dealt with were my 68 and 73. Both have the wiper arm close to the channel.
- Thread starter
- #453
I can snag a picture if I remember. You just want to see the profile of the bends?
That’s how I installed it this last time. Although I’m 99% sure I have the channel upside down (and backwards). Fortunately, it’s pretty obvious so I didn’t fully reinstall it.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Looking at the first picture appears to be the same as OEM except trimmed a lot more at the end to get the cord started. Prior to 9/67 the. Channel turns down 90°. 9/67 plus it bends 90° up and forms a square with a slit just as it meets windshield at the bottom. Is that how you installed it?
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- #455
I did not. I installed it upside down (albeit temporarily) because it has a curve in it that more or less follows the curve of the windshield. I will be correcting it next time I'm in the garage.
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- #456
@Living in the Past heres some pics of the end of the channel:
On a related note, the front corners seem to have way too much air gap to me. Is this how they’re supposed to be?
Catching Neutral
GOLD Star
Catching Neutral
GOLD Star
My b-pillar bow settled right where it was supposed to.
- Thread starter
- #459
Interesting. Is that the TROA or OEM channel?
Catching Neutral
GOLD Star
TROA.
