Builds Helga: 1966 FJ40 FST

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Kenny I have an old school angle finder but have found that using an APP on the phone is easiest. The TC flange is easy, on the diff you have to hold the phone and try to get a good reading. I started with no shim first and went from there, found that I didn't need a shim in the rear after switching out the tired OME springs for Skyjackers.
Thanks Kelly! I appreciate the offer. I bought a magnetic angle finder. It’s not the best for the reasons you and Ian have pointed out. But I think I got a decent enough reading. I started with no shim on these new Dobinsons springs also but I’ve got a bit of vibration I didn’t notice before. I also think the pinion is pointed too far up visually.
 
Yeah it wasn’t the best. But I REALLY hate removing/reinstalling the driveshaft. I have not done the front yet. I’m not sure the front NEEDS them but I think it could use the caster.
You might be surprised about the front, both mine track so much better with 4* shims. The measurement need to take the ground into account but not hard. Holler if you want.
 
You might be surprised about the front, both mine track so much better with 4* shims. The measurement need to take the ground into account but not hard. Holler if you want.

To the OP, no highjack intended.

I want to clarify what your saying as I am adding shims to my rear springs as well.
Ref: shims on your front springs. So, you notice a difference in the handling when you are in 4 High (front shaft turning)? What speeds are you driving in 4 High? You noticed a difference while 2WD?
 
^^^ Agree here, I know its a PITA but pull that rear shim then measure your diff flange in comparison to the TC flange. If you are off by 2 or more degrees then that shim will come in handy to close the gap. IIRC having the diff pointed slightly higher than the TC is ok because it wants to rotate down when power is applied. Looking good man.
 
Goodbye old metal widow maker fan, hello fancy new plastic fan!
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Holy s***! This cooling system is STILL super funky. This is what’s come out with the latest thermo cure treatment… when will it end?!

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Question for the class: Is the fan supposed to be this far in the shroud? I’ve been under the impression that the fan should stick out slightly from the shroud. @Racer65 I bought all the goods from city racer but it seems like I might not need the spacer…

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Goodbye old metal widow maker fan, hello fancy new plastic fan!
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Holy s***! This cooling system is STILL super funky. This is what’s come out with the latest thermo cure treatment… when will it end?!

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Question for the class: Is the fan supposed to be this far in the shroud? I’ve been under the impression that the fan should stick out slightly from the shroud. @Racer65 I bought all the goods from city racer but it seems like I might not need the spacer…

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Here is my setup I got from @65swb45 many years back. Same concept. Mine does stick out a little from the shroud.
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Hmm. I wonder what’s different…
Maybe the fan? I can measure the spacer if you like. I have no clue on the fan specs, maybe @65swb45 can shine some light on that subject.
 
Keep flushing with distilled until it’s clear! Fill with distilled, run it a day then drain, repeat if it’s not clear. Took me two or three cycles on the 80, 40 has never been a problem.
 
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Keep flushing with distilled until its clear! Fill with distilled, run it a day then drain, repeat if its not clear. Took my two or three cycles on the 80, 40 has never been a problem.
My 40 took forever to flush out. Probably had never been done.

Paul, 62 hasn’t been done yet so it was super easy to not have done it.
 
Keep flushing with distilled until its clear! Fill with distilled, run it a day then drain, repeat if its not clear. Took my two or three cycles on the 80, 40 has never been a problem.
I feel like I've done 20 cycles, lol. Not a big deal, just surprised. The thermo cure broke loose so much crap that the petcock on the new radiator was clogged to the point of having to use a pointy thing to get it to drain even a drop.
 
Are you flushing the block drain too? I had to bore a hole in the muck with a drill bit when I was doing this to my 2F -
I have been as of the last time I messed with it. It took drilling, digging and finally compressed air to get that clog free. I didn't drain it this time as I was just draining the thermo cure to flush it with water.
 
Probably should drain from both Kenny, sounds like years of sediment and possibly mixed coolants.
 
Probably should drain from both Kenny, sounds like years of sediment and possibly mixed coolants.
You are probably right of course, Kelly. Wouldn’t have to wait for the t-stat to open that way also. And based on the crap in the radiator, the block drain might have some more gunk in it again. Hopefully the sniper’s temp sensor won’t give me grief when I take it out.
 
Header
Finally got around to snagging this sweet old school header for an early Siamese port F engine. Hopefully it’ll net a few extra ponies. It’ll for sure look badass in there though. Thanks to @Texican for being kind enough to sell it to me from his yard art collection. Hopefully I’ll get it attached to the 40 much quicker than I took to come get the thing.

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Maybe I’ll go full hot rod and combine it with this sweet dual carb Offenhauser intake I snagged a while back in the future!

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Finally got around to snagging this sweet old school header for an early Siamese port F engine. Hopefully it’ll net a few extra ponies. It’ll for sure look badass in there though. Thanks to @Texican for being kind enough to sell it to me from his yard art collection. Hopefully I’ll get it attached to the 40 much quicker than I took to come get the thing.

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Maybe I’ll go full hot rod and combine it with this sweet dual carb Offenhauser intake I snagged a while back in the future!

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I love this all! :D
 
I love this all! :D
Thanks! I’m super stoked as well! I need to figure out which carburetors to use if I go that route. Maybe some Holley 1904’s or something?
 

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