PNW 67 Patina Blue

[rainingagain]

I bought a coolant hose kit that was supposed to have a bypass hose for my early style water pump (90916-01036). Nada.

Since I had already opened up the kit, I was screwed so I started hacking.

End result. Not bad but still not the best. I'll be looking for an correct hose.

 

[rainingagain]

I still had some free time so I went ahead and installed the radiator, shroud, and upper coolant hose. Now I am wishing that I had not because I decided to take @ToyotaMatt's advice and check the pulley alignment properly. I used a laser level and ugh. Alternator side is still out just a bit.

From the other side, well, not good.

I know or at least I thought that I had the harmonic balancer seated all the way. I'm going to do some digging before I tear this all apart again.

I have no idea if it was like this before I started. I should have measured. Both the old and new water pumps are the same depth and from what I can tell, there's not difference in the fan pulley.

 

[rainingagain]

camera angle can play tricks on ones mind for sure , use a machinist's straight edge and or carpenters large framing square to confirm and verify ALL 3 V-GROOVE pulley bays are in-sync with one another , and all plumb , level and square everything details wise , because this matters greatly , it sure indeed looks like that current V-Belt is sitting out of square on the alternator pulley in the your photo i have reposted below ?

the whole wide range topic of the water pump changing of the guard here , lends some suspicion to the image too ....

only @65swb45 would know for certain if the water pump projection depth is different between the original 16100-60010 and the later 16100-60080 pump you have installed now ?


i can say for certain , that the off-set V-GROOVE pulley style you have going on with that snappy little 40A 27020-60022 is something i have Never seen before ?

the OEM Part # 27020-60020 Genuine NipponDenso is a factory Land Cruiser alternator , however i cannot find ANY application info on it except :

the 60020 , directly supersedes to a 27020-61110 and then to a updated 27020-61150 , both of which are exclusively a NON-USA 3F Carb. late modle Land Cruiser 60 , 62 and 70 series application ....

non sure all this matters or ?

nut would explain the mystery pulley topic i see here for sure ....


please take a moment and post the CAST RELIEF part number stamped on face of the pulley ...

i can reverse SKUNK-WORKS it and report back anything relevant here on that detail ?

Here's a pic.

Looks like 21041-043-0.

 

[Skreddy]

I still had some free time so I went ahead and installed the radiator, shroud, and upper coolant hose. Now I am wishing that I had not because I decided to take @ToyotaMatt's advice and check the pulley alignment properly. I used a laser level and ugh. Alternator side is still out just a bit.

View attachment 3212910

From the other side, well, not good.

View attachment 3212911

I know or at least I thought that I had the harmonic balancer seated all the way. I'm going to do some digging before I tear this all apart again.

I have no idea if it was like this before I started. I should have measured. Both the old and new water pumps are the same depth and from what I can tell, there's not difference in the fan pulley.

What are you leveling it against? The engine isn’t level in the frame. I’d assume it’d be really hard to use a laser. I’ve used a straight edge across pulley faces before, but that’s about it.

 

[rainingagain]

I have a pretty complete service history for this rig so I went digging. First to see if I could find a alternator replacement and second to see if I could find any clues on the water pump.

Nothing on the alternator. It appears to be from the factory most likely.

New water pump back in 1983. Just north of 35 bucks after tax. Not bad. Also the correct early style part number.

Ah ha! The smoking gun! The crime happened back in 1987. New water pump with the later style part number. I did not write that "should have been" message.

No other parts purchased with the pump.

Here's a couple other interesting oldies. "Install tubes in rear tires" from 1976. It's cropped out but that'll cost you 8 bucks.

R&R of the head back in 1975 for less than 80 bucks. Hell of a deal. These are Mr T dealership prices btw.

 

[rainingagain]

What are you leveling it against? The engine isn’t level in the frame. I’d assume it’d be really hard to use a laser. I’ve used a straight edge across pulley faces before, but that’s about it.

Good point. I did have the laser locked and was using it more as a straight edge but I'll go out and measure again.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Here's a pic.

View attachment 3212917

Looks like 21041-043-0.

ok ..........

- the 21041-043-0 is a NipponDenso OEM # not a TOYOTA one ....

- i found nothing on it because it's so old

- do you have the First Gen. Siamese F crankshaft pulley without a retainer HEX NUT , that you simply drive on in-place with a SST type hand held device ?

- or do you have a large HEX nut on your crank shaft ?

- we start here

- ONLY 2 topic can cause this mis-alignment of your pulleys issue

 

[ToyotaMatt]

the ONLY other possible cause is your ALTERNATOR drivers side lower mounting PIVOT flange cast iron bracket is CLOCKED out of sync. here ...

- they are indeed designed to be adjustable a very small amount and can wiggle back and forth if you loosen the 2 vertical mounting hex bolts ....


- do you follow me on this key point topic here ?

- i would agree the 27020-60022 could be original to the truck from the factory , bemause i can find ZERO application information anything on that particular part # - 60022 , except the parts supersessions i get into above in detail

- many times a OEM TOYOTA NipponDenso Parts maker PLANT A-11 installed day 1 production assembly line part # is NOT on the microfiche at all , i have seen this on DENSO Radiators , as late as a FJ62 , printed in the later NEON GREEN stamping ink .....and several Alternators too


- reply back the crank nut question i posted , and then confirm and verify the adjustment tolerance of the PIVOT bracket , from what i can see with your LASER level images , it might just be the CLOCKED OUT Pivot bracket here needs to be tweaked back to plumb level and square ....

- i have come across this many times in my past , and it's ONLY cause has been as a result of the alternator itself being pried upon with a long flat bar while adjusting the drive belt tension , the lower bracket 2 long vertical bolts vibrate loose naturally a bit from age and time hence allowing this to occur without one knowing


- double checked my image files data base i have on all things TOYOTA alternators , and again never seen a offset pulley like that on a Land Cruiser DENSO UNIT , but have seen it on TOYOTA Car ones , CORONA and CROWN , MARK II also ...

- only @65swb45 would know the final word here on that topic ?

 

[65swb45]

I have seen several different offsets in alternator pulleys. And a few different water pump pulleys. I vaguely remember that when I changed the pulley on mine (from the linked thread) that I had a few choices in the narrow-belt pulley drawer.

 

[rainingagain]

the ONLY other possible cause is your ALTERNATOR drivers side lower mounting PIVOT flange cast iron bracket is CLOCKED out of sync. here ...

- they are indeed designed to be adjustable a very small amount and can wiggle back and forth if you loosen the 2 vertical mounting hex bolts ....


- do you follow me on this key point topic here ?

- i would agree the 27020-60022 could be original to the truck from the factory , bemause i can find ZERO application information anything on that particular part # - 60022 , except the parts supersessions i get into above in detail

- many times a OEM TOYOTA NipponDenso Parts maker PLANT A-11 installed day 1 production assembly line part # is NOT on the microfiche at all , i have seen this on DENSO Radiators , as late as a FJ62 , printed in the later NEON GREEN stamping ink .....and several Alternators too


- reply back the crank nut question i posted , and then confirm and verify the adjustment tolerance of the PIVOT bracket , from what i can see with your LASER level images , it might just be the CLOCKED OUT Pivot bracket here needs to be tweaked back to plumb level and square ....

- i have come across this many times in my past , and it's ONLY cause has been as a result of the alternator itself being pried upon with a long flat bar while adjusting the drive belt tension , the lower bracket 2 long vertical bolts vibrate loose naturally a bit from age and time hence allowing this to occur without one knowing


- double checked my image files data base i have on all things TOYOTA alternators , and again never seen a offset pulley like that on a Land Cruiser DENSO UNIT , but have seen it on TOYOTA Car ones , CORONA and CROWN , MARK II also ...

- only @65swb45 would know the final word here on that topic ?

The balancer is indeed the type that is smacked back on with a block and a hammer. I took some measurements before I pulled it and checked again today and I'm fairly certain I have it seated.

I also have a confession to make. I thought that I would be fancy and try to make take some belt alignment measurements with a laser after discovering and almost impulse buying a Gates drive align laser.

The alternator side, I spent a bunch of time double checking everything. The other side I decided to try and measure towards the end of the night after a few to many Friday cervezas I think. I remeasured everything today. Alternator side is the same. Out just a bit. The other side is pretty much spot on.

@ToyotaMatt I'll loosen up everything on the alternator side and see if I can get it aligned.

I really appreciate everyone chiming in here and helping that I get this done right!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

The balancer is indeed the type that is smacked back on with a block and a hammer. I took some measurements before I pulled it and checked again today and I'm fairly certain I have it seated.

I also have a confession to make. I thought I would be fancy and try to make take some belt alignment measurements with a laser after discovering and almost impulse buying a Gates drive align laser.

The alternator side, I spent a bunch of time double checking everything. The other side I decided to try and measure towards the end of the night after a few to many Friday cervezas I think. I remeasured everything today. Alternator side is the same. Out just a bit. The other side is pretty much spot on.

@ToyotaMatt I'll loosen up everything on the alternator side and see if I can get it aligned.

I really appreciate everyone chiming in here and helping that I get this done right!

your welcome ,


i like a SOLID challenge some times , and this happens to be one , if your drive on only SIAMESE F crank pulley type is all

plumb level and square , then the ONLY other possible adjustable and alignment possible IS the pivot tab iron bracket

under motor mount DOG leg


it IS indeed designed to have the available free play factor and wiggle room forgiveness factor to do exactly this and that

here is a Siamese F parts diagram from my print media parts cataloger library ...

this will set you up for success , and help foster a correct approach to doing just that


make dam sure u remove your pos/ battey cable step # 1 first , and don't forget , because i don's see any B+ ring terminal protection going on and no matter if you had some that's full on battery amps and voltage there at your white wire w/ BLUE tracer stripe anyway ...


so just don't forget ....


SAFTEY first and foremost 24/7 in my Toyota shop is rule # 1 and step # 1 combined daily ..

i have seen some times the motor mount DOG leg actually covers up one of the lower pivot bracket hex bolts as it sits on top of it , there IS always a layer of fossilized crap between the 2 , be prepared to remove the dog leg to clean out to establish a full range of motion factor too

 

[rainingagain]

I found some other pics of owners bending their brackets just like mine to accommodate the thicker later model water pump body. Interesting but not surprising to be honest. I've seen some stuff that makes me shudder. A zip tied steering rack comes to mind.

From what I can tell, even if my lower bracket could move a bit forward, it was already done.

So I said paint be damned and I beat the last bit of curve out of the bracket. And test fitted with the belt. No more spacer washers!

The lower spreadable collar was loose so I fixed that. The hole is still nice and round luckily.

Here it is all installed. I tried to get a pic to show the alignment but I think I'm happy with it.

 

[rainingagain]

Now for the interesting part. My lower bolt fit nice an tight on the alternator. Both sides. Buuuuuuut there's so much wiggle room on the lower bracket. I was able to overcome this and tighten everything up to square, but is I'm worried it will move over time. Is this movement normal?

 

[rainingagain]

Now for the interesting part. My lower bolt fit nice an tight on the alternator. Both sides. Buuuuuuut there's so much wiggle room on the lower bracket. I was able to overcome this and tighten everything up to square, but is I'm worried it will move over time. Is this movement normal?

I should note that a lot of that wiggle went away when tightened it enough to set that collar but still...damn.

 

[rainingagain]

While I was waiting on my alternator bracket paint to cure, I decided to get this off my bench. I have an early style glove box door that does not have the piano hinge. Mine had a broken hinge that was poorly repaired several times.

I didn't really want to weld and repaint it properly. I'm trying for patina build. Yes, I know I have been repainting things. This doesn't count haha!

Not an easy thing to find but I managed to pick up this one from @Drake2. Mine is on the right. It fits the need perfectly.

There's some interesting differences in hardware between the two.

My latch was painted. Nut was 7mm and yellow cadmium.

Donor was grey plated and 8mm. Latch is bare metal.

 

[rainingagain]

The transmission shift plate hold down nuts on the donor were 6mm.

Mine were 5.5mm

All ajusted and installed. Sorry for the lighting. It's dark up here in the PNW this time of year.

 

[rainingagain]

Some air cleaner progress. Here it is before rust sealed, primed, and painted. There is a fair amount pitting which sucks.

I used a heavy coat of filler primer to try and fill some of the pitting. I really didn't want to bust out the bondo.

Turned out ok. I don't have any painted pics yet.

Also fixed the poor over tightened carb clamp.

 

[rainingagain]

I'm at a crossroad here with the filter base. I don't really want to paint it but there's some rust.

I might just treat it or fluid film it. Not sure.

 

[65swb45]

I thought this was supposed to be a patina build?

Welcome to rabbit hole!

 

[rainingagain]

I thought this was supposed to be a patina build?

Welcome to rabbit hole!

You got me! I'm trying my best to only paint what I have to weld or beat on or if it's truly crusty rusty.