Builds Helga: 1966 FJ40 FST

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Misc stuff done. Too hot to do much during these dog days of summer around these parts.

Test drove a 250 while the Tundra got an oil change… because, why not? These were the only two on the lot. Absolutely tons of Tundras there for some reason.
I like it a lot honestly. It reminds me of my first 80 in a lot of ways. Cloth seats, low belt line, somewhat boxy, etc. Tons more power and technology though obviously. Quite peppy and comfortable. Now if only I could trade the wife's Bronco for one…
IMG_1264.jpeg


IMG_1263.jpeg


Installed a dome light in the new soft top frame. Still need to wire it. Not sure what circuit would work best/be most correct.

IMG_1273.jpeg
IMG_1274.jpeg


Also decided to wire up these little led bolts I’ve had on there for a while. They come on with the brake lights. Pretty easy in hindsight. Just find the factory bullet terminal with the brake signal in the bumper/frame.


IMG_1280.jpeg
IMG_1279.jpeg


Also finally got around to swapping the steering dampener out for a dobi one. Would’ve gone a lot faster if I wasn’t so stubborn/lazy and found/used the pickle fork from the beginning.

IMG_1283.jpeg


Decided after reading some random things on the internet that what I really needed to get the most out of my pertronix ignition and coil was a set of pertronix wires… not a clue if it really matters/helps anything.


IMG_1282.jpeg
IMG_1281.jpeg
IMG_1284.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Looking good Kenny
 
Thanks Kelly! We need to hit up Hidden Falls one of these days when it cools off a bit.
Agreed, it needs to be a 40’s bonanza
 
Well poop. Decided to drive her into work this morning. Overflow bottle was pissing coolant when I parked. Quitting time is going to be fun.

For whatever reason apparently the heater valve needs to be open to circulate coolant to the temp sensor. It also seems that my thermostat may not be opening. Always something.

IMG_1395.jpeg
 
Seems like they changed the profile at some point. Seems like your style is better for the corners.
Mine is like yours too have you found a solution to that? I stuck some thick weather stripping up there temporarally but need to actually fix that.

Also really random, I really want to put a warn 8274 eventually on mine and have a similar front bumber I can use. are you using any mounting plates or anything?
 
Mine is like yours too have you found a solution to that? I stuck some thick weather stripping up there temporarally but need to actually fix that.

Also really random, I really want to put a warn 8274 eventually on mine and have a similar front bumber I can use. are you using any mounting plates or anything?
I have not found a solution other than just running it as is lol.

It’s just a bumper. I believe it is a btb/manafre product. This one I think: 45" Front Bumper with Winch Mount for 1958-1984 4x-Series Toyota Land Cruisers - BTB Products - Land Cruiser Restoration and Parts - https://btbprod.com/product/bumper-front-8274-winch-style-fj40-btb-45-wide/

I bought it secondhand from a fellow mudder. I really wanted a hell for stout bumper but I couldn’t pass that deal up. It’s very HD in my opinion. Seems comparable to the HFS.
 
I have not found a solution other than just running it as is lol.

It’s just a bumper. I believe it is a btb/manafre product.
Gotcha yeah if it helps I put some thick door weather stripping pieces up there and it keeps the wind out. it seems to work fine. (its my only gripe with the soft top) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BM8XG1QF?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Gotcha yeah mine looks to be the same bumper. I took it off and bought a oem one when I first got the fj40. Thats good to know thanks. I was not sure if you needed a mounting plate or somthing. I may cut my bumper up and see if I can weld up the parts on my oem one at some point. But allso dont want to ruin two nice bumpers haha
 
Last edited:
Gotcha yeah if it helps I put some thick door weather stripping pieces up there and it keeps the wind out. it seems to work fine. (its my only gripe with the soft top) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BM8XG1QF?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Gotcha yeah mine looks to be the same bumper. I took it off and bought a oem one when I first got the fj40. Thats good to know thanks. I was not sure if you needed a mounting plate or somthing. I may cut my bumper up and see if I can weld up the parts on my oem one at some point. But allso dont want to ruin two nice bumpers haha
As for the corners of the soft top (I've talked you both) I am going to try punching a fresh grommet through a folded back on itself corner.
I'll report back how that works but it seems like the only way to eliminate the excess without drilling more holes in the truck.

Also, I have been talking with Albert almost every day, good things to report when I can.
 
As for the corners of the soft top (I've talked you both) I am going to try punching a fresh grommet through a folded back on itself corner.
I'll report back how that works but it seems like the only way to eliminate the excess without drilling more holes in the truck.

Also, I have been talking with Albert almost every day, good things to report when I can.
Looking forward to your findings sir!
 
Yesterday was a good day. I finally did what I should’ve done on day 2… Cleared the rear block drain! Nasty, nasty stuff. Not sure what all was in there but it wasn’t just rust. Used a drill bit and punch to try to break it up. Didn’t seem to make a lot of progress until I put some compressed air in the heater valve and then in the drain hole. Flows extremely well now! It’s also nice and mostly clear unlike before. Still planning on running some evapo-rust through all of it at some point.
IMG_1405.jpeg


Also moved the Sniper temp sensor from the heater valve to the block drain now that I know it’s clear.

Went install my new @ToyotaMatt unicorn heater valve and… disappointment. Looks like I might’ve screwed up and thought it would fit my early F engine. Whoops!

IMG_1406.jpeg

IMG_1408.jpeg
 
Unrelated update: I’ve been designing and printing some ideas to better adapt the Autolite 1100 Sniper to my early F intake. I’ve never been too happy with how the Sniper was installed. The throttle linkage was binding up on return half the time and the mounting flanges, while very close aren’t exactly the same. I used M10 coupling nuts and studs from Belmetric to extend the existing studs to fit the extra height. I used PETG w/ carbon fiber for the spacer/adaptor. After basically three iterations this is the final example:

IMG_1396.jpeg
IMG_1386.jpeg
IMG_1402.jpeg
IMG_1403.jpeg


To adapt the Sniper to the air box I’ll be using TPU. Here’s the first iteration out of PLA:

IMG_1404.jpeg
 
Radical!
How does that stuff handle heat?
I’m like John Snow when t comes to 3d printing
Ha! So far so good. I haven't put a lot of miles on it yet. The PLA can't even handle a hot day inside a car but the PETG w/ CF is much better at heat resistance. The specs say heat deflection up to 165F and a 437F melting temperature. We shall see how well it holds up.
 
Here’s the Sniper to air box adapter again but with TPU filament. Initial test are good. Good fit, could be slightly tighter on the Sniper side. It didn’t want to collapse when I rev’d it though, so that’s good. Might just put some clamps on it for good measure.

IMG_1411.jpeg
 
Here’s the Sniper to air box adapter again but with TPU filament. Initial test are good. Good fit, could be slightly tighter on the Sniper side. It didn’t want to collapse when I rev’d it though, so that’s good. Might just put some clamps on it for good measure.

View attachment 3718409
Been meaning to get into the 3D printing game for awhile… maybe it’ll be a family Christmas gift this year.
 
Unrelated update: I’ve been designing and printing some ideas to better adapt the Autolite 1100 Sniper to my early F intake. I’ve never been too happy with how the Sniper was installed. The throttle linkage was binding up on return half the time and the mounting flanges, while very close aren’t exactly the same. I used M10 coupling nuts and studs from Belmetric to extend the existing studs to fit the extra height. I used PETG w/ carbon fiber for the spacer/adaptor. After basically three iterations this is the final example:

View attachment 3718221View attachment 3718222View attachment 3718219View attachment 3718220

To adapt the Sniper to the air box I’ll be using TPU. Here’s the first iteration out of PLA:

View attachment 3718229
I think I need that adapter... That's the only thing that's been holding me up on installing the 1100. I just haven't wanted to tackle it yet.
 
I think I need that adapter... That's the only thing that's been holding me up on installing the 1100. I just haven't wanted to tackle it yet.
I can print ya one! You'll need to get the hardware though. Either longer studs or coupling nuts and short studs.
 
@KennyBob

Question on you soft top...

Are all three of your bows the same height?

Also, I need to talk to you about some developments in this area... If you are available later I'd like to have a brief phone call with you.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom