Front Bearing Replacement

[RangerDownUnder]

I've got freewheeling hubs on mine. The service manual makes it look like the only different steps are to 1) remove the cover of the freewheeling hub, 2) remove the snap ring, and then 3) remove the freewheeling hub body once the cones are out. Does that sound right? And what's the best solvent to clean the grease off all of the parts? Aerosol degreaser? I've used unleaded before to clean parts but I'd like to avoid that volatility if I can.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Alright, I went after it again yesturday and got er done. Once I figured out the cone washer thing- lots of posts in 60 & 80 forums on this. It looks like the left front bearings were loose- adjusting nut undertightened, causing my mysterious front end vibration. The only problems I had were setting the preload and torquing the adjusting nut. The holes in the gasket for the flange were too small, so I had to re-use the old gaskets. Also, I had a hard time positioning the passenger side rotor and hub once I was finished replacing and packing the bearings. Now I can't get the snap ring to go back on correctly, so I've got to toy around with that some more. I took lots of pictures- don't know if I can post them or not, but I'll work on a write-up later.

How hard are you guys pulling on the axle to get the snap ring grove exposed? For the life of me I cannot get the grove exposed. I am going to grab a harmonic puller set tomorrow and use @2001LC 's method, hoping that works.

 

[SlowBuild]

How hard are you guys pulling on the axle to get the snap ring grove exposed? For the life of me I cannot get the grove exposed. I am going to grab a harmonic puller set tomorrow and use @2001LC 's method, hoping that works.

Did you try a jack under your LCA to lift the knuckle? @2001LC gave me a helpful tip once mine were in but maybe not pulled enough. I drove a short loop around the block and pulled into my garage with ahc on hi. Then I stopped and lowered it all the way down to LO. The weight of the truck forced the axles tight through the hub flange. A jack under the LCA might do something similar if your having trouble getting a snap ring on.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Did you try a jack under your LCA to lift the knuckle? @2001LC gave me a helpful tip once mine were in but maybe not pulled enough. I drove a short loop around the block and pulled into my garage with ahc on hi. Then I stopped and lowered it all the way down to LO. The weight of the truck forced the axles tight through the hub flange. A jack under the LCA might do something similar if your having trouble getting a snap ring on.

I will give that another go. I tried jacking up the LCA so that the axles were in a straight line, I figured that would make them the "longest"... maybe full bump would bring the knuckle in closer? I'll give that a try tomorrow.

 

[white_lx]

How hard are you guys pulling on the axle to get the snap ring grove exposed? For the life of me I cannot get the grove exposed.

I was also unable to get the axle seated properly by pulling on it. At first I tied a slide hammer. That was unsuccessful. You need a prolonged force, to squeeze the grease out slowly. So, I made this. Tighten the middle screw and then jack the axle out using the two other screws. No need to lift or jack the LCA with this. Also leaves lots of room for the feeler gauge.

 

[2001LC]

I was also unable to get the axle seated properly by pulling on it. At first I tied a slide hammer. That was unsuccessful. You need a prolonged force, to squeeze the grease out slowly. So, I made this. Tighten the middle screw and then jack the axle out using the two other screws. No need to lift the jack the LCA with this. Also leaves lots of room for the feeler gauge.

View attachment 1682394

Did you make that puller? I like it!

 

[white_lx]

Did you make that puller? I like it!

Yes, I did. "Make" is a big word for a flat bar with two threaded holes and a clearance hole. Was a bit embarrassed to show this one, as I made it in a rush when I couldn't get the axle to seat. I'll make a proper one one day, and post it.

I've actually been thinking of starting a tooling thread. DIY or purchase with special tools for these vehicles. Maybe one exists already.

My list:
- DIY axle puller
- DIY spindle greaser
- DIY pressure brake bleeder (work in progress)
- Schley (SCH64300) harmonic damper holding tool

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Yes, I did. "Make" is a big word for a flat bar with two threaded holes and a clearance hole. Was a bit embarrassed to show this one, as I made it in a rush when I couldn't get the axle to seat. I'll make a proper one one day, and post it.

I've actually been thinking of starting a tooling thread. DIY or purchase with special tools for these vehicles. Maybe one exists already.

My list:
- DIY axle puller
- DIY spindle greaser
- DIY pressure brake bleeder (work in progress)
- Schley (SCH64300) harmonic damper holding tool

So, I made your puller, used some 3/8 x 2" flat bar I had laying around....no beans. I used what I had laying around, some cheese grade 1/4-20 fasteners and they bent... need to get some stronger bolts tomorrow.

One thing I find odd, when I pull my axle out as far as I can, I can hear part of the cv axle (what I assume) bottom out on something... so it seems that there is some sort of metal obstructions... what COULD I have assembled incorrectly?

 

[2001LC]

****
One thing I find odd, when I pull my axle out as far as I can, I can hear part of the cv axle (what I assume) bottom out on something... so it seems that there is some sort of metal obstructions... what COULD I have assembled incorrectly?

You should not "hear, bottom out".

A few possibilities that often happen when knuckle pulled off (if you pulled off).

Oil seal on outer end of front drive shaft axle gets bent. Bent seal, will rub on back of knuckle oil seal. This rubbing makes some wrongly think they set wheel bearings to tight.

This oil seal is often bent when knuckle pulled and axle of front drive shaft aloud to sit unprotected on LCA.

Also, possibly the Knuckle oil seal (if you pulled and replaced) is bent or not seated properly.
In this picture of back side of knuckle you can see axle needle bearing, axle bushing and knuckle oil seal.

 

[white_lx]

So, I made your puller, used some 3/8 x 2" flat bar I had laying around....no beans. I used what I had laying around, some cheese grade 1/4-20 fasteners and they bent... need to get some stronger bolts tomorrow.
One thing I find odd, when I pull my axle out as far as I can, I can hear part of the cv axle (what I assume) bottom out on something... so it seems that there is some sort of metal obstructions... what COULD I have assembled incorrectly?

You should not need that much force. Did you only remove the rotor assembly? Or did you also remove the knuckle? How much more does the CV axle need to move? Are you off by a little, or more than that? Just wondering if the axle has some wear marks on which it is hung up?

Also, possibly the Knuckle oil seal (if you pulled and replaced) is bent or not seated properly.
In this picture of back side of knuckle you can see axle needle bearing, axle bushing and knuckle oil seal.

Wondering about this oil seal. Do you find this is a maintenance item, or does it only require replacement after damage due to not handling?

 

[2001LC]

Wondering about this oil seal. Do you find this is a maintenance item, or does it only require replacement after damage due to not handling?

If I'm pulling knuckle, I pull seal during reconditioning & cleaning. Seal is not usable. If seal if left in, replacement is only needed if damaged. They can last a very long time, if undisturbed I suppose.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Thanks for the helps guys @2001LC and @white_lx

I used the puller I made and it worked, but I have a feeling my issue was a deformed seal on the back of the knuckle, as @2001LC pointed out. I didn't remove the knuckle, but I believe I was able to get the axle pushed back far enough to unseat and it sat on the seal. Does that sound reasonable?

 

[BillRiley]

I had to use the homemade puller to get my snap-ring back on too. Make sure you recheck for play in the bearings if you have to resort to this method - I had to go back readjust. In hindsight - probably better to go higher than 43 ft lbs when setting the initial preload (step #9 from post #5).

 

[Robinson13]

Re packing the bearings on my new to me Toyota maintained 2004 Cruiser, the cone washers were a real bitch to remove.
On my previous Land Cruisers and HiLux vehicles, I would position the slit on the cone washer out board. Figured that centrifugal force would help sling the muck/moisture out from the stud area, and always made it quite easy to get those cones out. And I never had a stud corrosion issue.

 

[MH_Stevens]

Maybe already quoted but good video of the whole process by a professional here:

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Yep, just one page ahead of this . . .

 

[2001LC]

He does so many things wrong in that video, well let's say not best practice!

 

[TheForger]

He does so many things wrong in that video, well let's say not best practice!

What are the main issues that you see are wrong with his method? I have to agree that he has more of a mechanics mindset rather than a DIYer (who is much easier and ‘loving’ with how they go about working on vehicles), I’m just honestly curious because I have a bearing replacement coming up soon that I’ll be doing myself and I don’t want to copy the bad habits he shows.

 

[2001LC]

It's been awhile since I viewed it, but here's what I remember:

• He first uses a ratchet wrench to break loose caliper securing bolts. Sure you can but that is what a breaker bar is for.
• Second uses chisel to remove grease cap. Sure you can use it, but tends to damage hub flange and cap.
• To remove cone washers; He state "manual says take a punch and hit end of shaft" he then uses a steel chisel. FSM states use a brass dowel. The brass is soft and will not damage the studs.

So the first three aren't a big deal although CAN BE DAMAGING TO tools, hub flange and studs.

• To remove (break loose) the hub flange, he hit with a steel hammer. He does say gently or you'll damage hub flange. He is right, you will damage it. In fact, he hit right at cone washer housing. That is the worst place to hit. If one has to tap on it, use brass and hit between cone washer areas. But really one doesn't need to hit, except in rare circumstances. If you look close at his hub flange you can see hit marks at each cone washer location. This warps the cone washer seat affecting the design flex in the system.
• He takes locking ring out an pounds bent tab flat. Ok you can do this, but don't use a tab that has been bent. If you look close you'll see that locking ring has had tabs straighten on prior job. No tab should be bent a second time. The way you do this is keep "as is" until assemble. Inspect the keep on inner part of locking ring. You'll want a good square surface to fit into groove on spindle, they often are worn out which should then be replaced. Sometimes we get lucky and keep is good and the bent inner tap is lined up the same and we use it. You must then flatten the outer tab for assemble. But never rebend a tab. He rebent at least one if not both.
• He pops off rear seal and bearings using nut threaded back on spindle. Sure you can do this, but risk is high. Risk is scoring a race or bending up cage of bearing. Easier and safer way is to tap out with wooden dowel once you've placed hub on a bench.

Separating rotor if one is replacing, is easier for a DIY to place in the wheel/tire serure with a few lugs. This holds in place and bolt are easily broken loose.

I'm running short on time so I'll jump to assembly.

• He did not grease axle bearing and bushings in back of steering kunckle.
• He said he'll put a little grease in hub, Wrong. Put a lot of grease in hub, about 1/3 of a can. We must fill hub cavity until just over level of bearing race. This is so grease will be forced into bearings by centrifugal force. If to little grease is in cavity, centrifugal force will cause grease to move from bearing to cavity of hub flange. This will burn up the bearing for sure. To much grease and heat builds, so leave a little air space. You'll use 98% of a can of M1 grease by the time your done with both sides.
• He hand tighten adjusting nut on bearings, wrong. This I assure you will leave bearing way to lose. FSM has a very specific procedure for this. Referred to to as "setting breakaway perload". Which I posted and touch on early in this thread.
• He did not torque locking nut, nor re-check breakaway pre-load after that which he should. It's important as it will go up!.
• He used old snap ring which FSM states non reusable. I have re-use snap ring, but it must pass inspection, which few will. In most cases I go up one size to the 2.4mm (D) snap ring, from the factory 2.2MM. Max gap is 0.20mm I like it so tight I can't measure.
• He did not check snap ring gap. Very important and often overlooked. Get gap as tight as possible is best practice and save hub flange and axle.

• He said we "can put a little sealer on" he's was talking about the hub flange. WRONG. Do not put sealer or FIPG on hub flange. In the link I just provided you'll see I have a very difficult time removing cone washer and hub flange. I've done more Knuckle, hub & wheel bearing reconditions then I can remember. But this one was the toughest one ever. Last person to do wheel bearings used sealer on hub flange which also got into cone washer. It was a major PITA. Toyota sell a gasket for this, use it, and do not put on any type of sealer. You can add grease to gasket if you like but dry is fine and by the book (FSM)

Look at the OP of The Unicorn, there you'll see index leading you to wheel bearings starting on page 10 post #197 with knuckle. I also did some short video you may find helpful, which I posted there. It's not a step by step, but one of my more extensive overviews on the subject.
Here some more reading you may find helpful:
Bearing repack GURUs
Wheel Bearing; FSM Torque to Light or just Right.
Front Axle Hub Flange backlash?

 

[reconranger]

I've done my LX450 front bearings multiple times. I just did one on the LX470 while I was there to replace a lug stud. I used 2001LC method and watched his YouTube vids to help. And went on a 200 mile trip with confidence right after.