Cant believe it why would someone do that ??
Front Bearing Replacement
- Thread starter hank14
- Start date
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That doesn't look like the "cap", that looks like the axle
I guess that's one way to deal with the axle to drive plate connection. I think I personally prefer the as designed snap ring method a little better.
2001LC
SILVER Star
You don't have grease cap(s).
Rather than replace worn out (teeth) hub flange and front drive shaft(s), someone welded them together. Or it was a welders idea of a snap ring.
You'll need grind or cut off the weld so hub flange can be unbolted and slipped off. Then replace all damage parts.
I've seen some unusual fixes but this one takes first place.
No other way besides to grind it off ?.What parts will i have to change beside hub flange by this you mean( front wheel axle bearings and hub were the 6 bolts a bolted ) ?steering knuckle etc.Lucky bearings a still good.Sorry guys new to this.
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Whoa, this is unfortunate. I don't know a lot about the front end on these, but hopefully the more seasoned guys on mud can help. Good luck.
uHu
Bridgeburner
The only good way to solve this is to get new CV-shafts, new flanges, and related parts like snap rings, cones/nuts and oil seals. Then grind the weld away and hope that the bearings are ok.
That there is not a repair, it's violence.
That there is not a repair, it's violence.
Def an asshat move by the PO... A grinder will get that off with a lot of time and patience.
Not going to be able to use a snap ring w/o serious machining.
Not going to be able to use a snap ring w/o serious machining.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Options:
1) Remove front drive shaft & steering knuckle as one complete unit. This may be faster but you'd end up tossing what may be a lot of good parts. Most expensive option.
OR
2) Cut off tip of axle & hub flange.
3) Grind off weld: Remove just enough to allow axle to slip back out of spindle without obstruction of weld.
Your steering knuckle, axle hub and even wheel bearings may be ok. Until you take apart there is no way to be sure.
Each side that's welded, at minimum will need:
Front drive shaft (with new inboard snap ring).
Lock washer.
Axle hub flange gasket
Axle hub flange.
Axle hub cone washers (may be heat damaged or scored)
Axle hub nuts.
Axle hub flange Snap ring. (outboard)
Grease cap.
Plus any seal that are not serviceable.
This picture you can see how far axle comes out past spindle threads of steering knuckle. The rubber ring on axle is not part of assemble, it a Slee - Spindle Grease Tool seal form Axle needle bearing & bushing greasing tool.
In this you can see wheel hub on steering knuckle with axle coming through steering knuckle spindle.
Testing preload:
Checking snap ring gap
1) Remove front drive shaft & steering knuckle as one complete unit. This may be faster but you'd end up tossing what may be a lot of good parts. Most expensive option.
OR
2) Cut off tip of axle & hub flange.
3) Grind off weld: Remove just enough to allow axle to slip back out of spindle without obstruction of weld.
Your steering knuckle, axle hub and even wheel bearings may be ok. Until you take apart there is no way to be sure.
Each side that's welded, at minimum will need:
Front drive shaft (with new inboard snap ring).
Lock washer.
Axle hub flange gasket
Axle hub flange.
Axle hub cone washers (may be heat damaged or scored)
Axle hub nuts.
Axle hub flange Snap ring. (outboard)
Grease cap.
Plus any seal that are not serviceable.
This picture you can see how far axle comes out past spindle threads of steering knuckle. The rubber ring on axle is not part of assemble, it a Slee - Spindle Grease Tool seal form Axle needle bearing & bushing greasing tool.
In this you can see wheel hub on steering knuckle with axle coming through steering knuckle spindle.
Testing preload:
Checking snap ring gap
Thankyou for that very helpfull.I think option one the go as the car has 230000miles so time for a change by then when bearings a due.Do I still need to do any grinding with option 1.What's a steering knuckle and drive shaft worth ?.
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thats a winner
2001LC
SILVER Star
No grinding or cutting needed for option 1. What it cost depends on if you go with; used, aftermarket or OEM. You'll need to search online for sources.
But really grinding or cutting, would not be that tough with angle grinder.
Are you planning on doing yourself or having a shop do?
2001LC
SILVER Star
@Dannyboy lx470 this picture along with others above will help you develop a parts list.
Note: The front drive shaft comes in one unit.
Note: The front drive shaft comes in one unit.
I feel your pain.
I have seen some on here use CVJ axles for OEM rebuilds. When I did mine I thought I needed new ones but no so.
I had to call as they didn't have any parts listed. The lady I spoke with was very helpful. And even though they did not have stock on hand she was going to have them rebuild me one.
Good luck!
I have seen some on here use CVJ axles for OEM rebuilds. When I did mine I thought I needed new ones but no so.
I had to call as they didn't have any parts listed. The lady I spoke with was very helpful. And even though they did not have stock on hand she was going to have them rebuild me one.
Good luck!
I will probably have my mechanic do it for me.Reading a few threads people haven't been happy with aftermatket cv joints.
2001LC
SILVER Star
He should have a big angle grinder, and can grind or cut off in ~20 minutes.
Most would agree OEM's are the best option for the 100 series. CVJ @bucfl mentioned is here in Denver Colorado, charges $200 for the rebuilt plus shipping. He only works with OEM and give $75 for each returned core. But I have seen aftermarkets still doing good with ~50k miles on then in a stock set up 100 series. The old saying you get what you pay for is true, even in aftermarket there is good and bad.
Note: Proper name is "front drive shafts" (AKA CV) when ordering parts or looking up info in FSM this becomes important.
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I know this thread hasn't had a post since Christmas of 2016, but I found it with a search for front wheel bearings, so please hear me out. I have 336,000 miles on my Land Cruiser, and have repacked the front bearings before, but it's been a while. I was working on the front brakes today, and had planned on replacing the rotors and pads. Actually turned out I don't need rotors, they look really good, so I was doing the pads for now. When I removed the driver's side front wheel, I felt a little play, so I grabbed the edges of disc in the cooling vanes and tried rocking it, and it has movement.
So my question is, at this mileage, shouldn't I just get new bearings and install them? Or can I just repack again? I don't know how to tell if they are bad or just need more grease. If new, where is the best place for OE or at least OEM? The original ones lasted so long, I don't want to be chintzy with this important item. It's worth it to use the best, in my opinion. I will also consider an aftermarket, if they are a performance/durability upgrade.
So my question is, at this mileage, shouldn't I just get new bearings and install them? Or can I just repack again? I don't know how to tell if they are bad or just need more grease. If new, where is the best place for OE or at least OEM? The original ones lasted so long, I don't want to be chintzy with this important item. It's worth it to use the best, in my opinion. I will also consider an aftermarket, if they are a performance/durability upgrade.
@12guns , I really agree. Preventative if nothing else. What's the brand to get? Koyo (1 yr warranty)? National tapered (3 yr warranty)? Beck/Arnley (3 yr warranty)? Something else? I will order them this week if it's not an in-store available brand, so I can do the work next weekend.
@2001LC, I am sure you have ideas on this. Care to chime in?
@2001LC, I am sure you have ideas on this. Care to chime in?
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