Getting ready to tackle this on my right front.
Front Bearing Replacement (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter hank14
- Start date
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How did it go? I'm working on this right now. Even after reading a bunch of threads I'm still unsure what to do about the pre-load. I would really prefer not to have to tear it open again to retighten.
Remember to start job by pressure washing backside of steering knuckle, best done with wheel hub and wheels still on.
Cone washers is area many get into trouble. So I'll show these, they were toughest cone washers I've removed. Someone glued them in by putting FIPG on hub flange gasket. Toyota does NOT use FIPG anywhere in front-end.
We don't pound on hub flange as it will bend. Which may keep from giving a water tight seal and/or cone washers from riding flush.
Cone washers is area many get into trouble. So I'll show these, they were toughest cone washers I've removed. Someone glued them in by putting FIPG on hub flange gasket. Toyota does NOT use FIPG anywhere in front-end.
We don't pound on hub flange as it will bend. Which may keep from giving a water tight seal and/or cone washers from riding flush.
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I pull steering knuckle first time into a wheel bearing job on most all my rigs, to inspect and recondition. Most just press some grease in axle bushing & bearing from backside without removing. See post #28 from @uHu
Installing wheel hub and setting breakaway preload to FSM specis 9.5 to 15lb of pull.
Installing wheel hub and setting breakaway preload to FSM specis 9.5 to 15lb of pull.
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Just did 2 wheels yesterday on a vehicle that had service done at a Toyota dealership and the wheel bearings were loose - I'm assuming they went by spec on adjusting nut and called it a day. What I found was the torque specifications from steps 9, 12 & 15 were not enough to get the preload for 14 & 17. Instead, start with torque spec, then add more until you get the right preload.
I don't replace wheel bearings often, as they are so tough. I did find my first bad wheel recently. Sorry I don't have video of replacing. One day I may see if I can edit all my videos in to one rather than segments. But for now one must just have to hunt through my videos on youtube.
Here what bad bearing & race looks like.
Here what bad bearing & race looks like.
You'll find more helpful links in here: Buying, PM & Advance Maintenance of 100 series.
just wanted to say thank you for this thread, it gave me the confidence to tackle this as I replaced brakes this past weekend!
Very good
Funny thing I guess; I’ve been reading the info on ih8mud for this job and today I tear into my hub intent on just doing the outer bearings. I get a little nervous, look on YouTube and find the MeMy users videos. They convince me that I can remove oil seal (had new ones) and repack the inner bearings too. I’m watching the videos and thinking: this guy is super informative, it’s like that 2001LC guy on ih8mud. Same guy. Go figure.
Serviced my bearings today following all this great info. I did not have a good way of cleaning old bearings so I wiped off as much as I could, packed them until only new grease (mobil1 synthetic) came out, and was liberal on grease inside and all over. Neither hub had much old grease inside. I think both other bearings were probably fine but I replaced them with new ones. I used the original outer races - left them inside - and new bearings. Hope that doesn’t screw me up. Timken race and Koyo bearing. Kindve made a mess of getting the oil seal out. That was a pain.
Both sides locking nuts were loose when I opened them up. The snap ring was this thin thing looked like a Walmart blue light special.
Got everything right tight - got to about 50lb on the torque to pull 13-15 with the spring gauge. Ordered several of each Toyota snap ring and got that sucker in tight. Really helped to screw a bolt on the end of the axle and pull hard.
The job took me several hours although a lot of that was figuring how to get my truck off the ground. My sears jack doesn’t reach high enough!
On the drive home I noticed that a shudder I had at 65-75mph is gone. Bearings were loose? Snap ring too loose?
Old hardware pictured. Each claw washer had a worn ring score around it. Not deep but there. They looked newish. The bearings may also be pretty new. Didn’t have a record of previous service so I bought some in case and figured I’d install.
Thanks to everyone for the info and walk through. I used the shop manual the whole time, but I knew what I was doing because of these write ups!
Serviced my bearings today following all this great info. I did not have a good way of cleaning old bearings so I wiped off as much as I could, packed them until only new grease (mobil1 synthetic) came out, and was liberal on grease inside and all over. Neither hub had much old grease inside. I think both other bearings were probably fine but I replaced them with new ones. I used the original outer races - left them inside - and new bearings. Hope that doesn’t screw me up. Timken race and Koyo bearing. Kindve made a mess of getting the oil seal out. That was a pain.
Both sides locking nuts were loose when I opened them up. The snap ring was this thin thing looked like a Walmart blue light special.
Got everything right tight - got to about 50lb on the torque to pull 13-15 with the spring gauge. Ordered several of each Toyota snap ring and got that sucker in tight. Really helped to screw a bolt on the end of the axle and pull hard.
The job took me several hours although a lot of that was figuring how to get my truck off the ground. My sears jack doesn’t reach high enough!
On the drive home I noticed that a shudder I had at 65-75mph is gone. Bearings were loose? Snap ring too loose?
Old hardware pictured. Each claw washer had a worn ring score around it. Not deep but there. They looked newish. The bearings may also be pretty new. Didn’t have a record of previous service so I bought some in case and figured I’d install.
Thanks to everyone for the info and walk through. I used the shop manual the whole time, but I knew what I was doing because of these write ups!
Those bearings are hard to see in picture. But from what I can see, they're fine.
Best practice is to replace new bearings with new race supplied in the box.
Note: Always replace bearing to same race when servicing. Bearings seat in race, and should not swap to other hub/race.
Best practice is to replace new bearings with new race supplied in the box.
Note: Always replace bearing to same race when servicing. Bearings seat in race, and should not swap to other hub/race.
I found answer here - Spindle Bearing Replacement? Do I need a press?
Spindle bearings looks good to my eye, but not sure
Not exactly sure what part that is since it's zoomed in. If it's the steering knuckle, here is what the FSM shows in the pics. Hope this helps. You have to replace those oil seals (parts with a black diamond in the diagram are parts to replace--I've yet to replace the bearings on my 2003).
This may be helpful
forum.ih8mud.com
Scored 00LX w/557,333 Km, Emerald! No start condition. needs a ton of work. No Problem!
We've difference in years. Mainly 98-02 Toyota sell us return line as part of the whole high pressure and return line for ~$500. So we use 3/8" transmission cooler line and fuel line clamps for ~$5. 03-07 return line is available from Toyota. Suction hose IIRC are all the same form Toyota. The...
forum.ih8mud.com
Thanks and also I have the PDF thanks to this forum.
This may be helpful
Scored 00LX w/557,333 Km, Emerald! No start condition. needs a ton of work. No Problem!
We've difference in years. Mainly 98-02 Toyota sell us return line as part of the whole high pressure and return line for ~$500. So we use 3/8" transmission cooler line and fuel line clamps for ~$5. 03-07 return line is available from Toyota. Suction hose IIRC are all the same form Toyota. The...
Thanks this is very helpful as always!
Spindle bearings replaced with brass washers. Removed those by using a socket inside the axle cavity. Thanks again.
