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I think Lincoln makes .03 and .035
14 might be thinner than I've used. I just turn the heat down.
14 might be thinner than I've used. I just turn the heat down.
RUSH55
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- #383
Rust free vintage Cruiser sheetmetal is like 22 gauge - rusty vintage Cruiser sheetmetal is even thinner. Not too bad when making patches with thicker material, but when you blow a hole in the thinner stuff and have to do a bunch of fill, the smaller CO2 wire is making it easier.
RUSH55
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- #384
So, I’m still here.... 
Pig on the brain...
I took this pic so you could see why I’ve been entertaining SOA so much. These are the Alcans I bought in ‘08. The PN# FJ55R5002
Can’t remember if they’re supposed to be 6” lift springs or 5” in conjunction with 2” over stock shackles to achieve 6” overall. Either way, by looking at this pic you can see how easy a stock height spring with shorter shackle could fit on top of there, right? Well, not gonna happen anyways, but you can see it right there. The issue is that it always seems the ass end could use just a little more height, cause I just like it that way
When swapping in the 60 rear, was thinking about outboarding the hangers, but since there’s so much room to move perches, I’m thinking about going that route, and then just reducing the perch to axle clearance by 1/2” or better to increase ride height. Also want to do away with those gawdy triangulated shackles and go to the “H” type with greasable pins.
Pig on the brain...I took this pic so you could see why I’ve been entertaining SOA so much. These are the Alcans I bought in ‘08. The PN# FJ55R5002
Can’t remember if they’re supposed to be 6” lift springs or 5” in conjunction with 2” over stock shackles to achieve 6” overall. Either way, by looking at this pic you can see how easy a stock height spring with shorter shackle could fit on top of there, right? Well, not gonna happen anyways, but you can see it right there. The issue is that it always seems the ass end could use just a little more height, cause I just like it that way
When swapping in the 60 rear, was thinking about outboarding the hangers, but since there’s so much room to move perches, I’m thinking about going that route, and then just reducing the perch to axle clearance by 1/2” or better to increase ride height. Also want to do away with those gawdy triangulated shackles and go to the “H” type with greasable pins.
The anti inversion shackles were recommended to me, so I have them on the floor with my new springs 
I have to look, but yeah, they might be stock length
...been awhile!bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
.035 and yes to 14. I used it don't like it. Stick with gas 
RUSH55
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- #390
Some goodies showed up while we were gone to Cali this week!
Thanks @bobm !
And thanks @PabloCruise !
Back at it tomorrow.
Thanks @bobm !
And thanks @PabloCruise !
Back at it tomorrow.
What was the reason again for the long cut behind the bolt hole?
RUSH55
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- #394
That is the only place where the outer sheetmetal is welded to the inner mount. I just cut some slots and welded along the inner edges and left some of it unwelded for in case down the road if for some reason this would all need to be removed again, it’s not a mystery as to where it’s tied together. Hopefully not ever necessary, but should be pretty unnoticeable cosmetically.
RUSH55
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- #395
Went and spent some time dismantling the parts FJ60. The only part I got today that I’ll actually be using on my build is the steering box, and that’s iffy, considering what it looks like. Might end up being a good core.
The front holes match up pretty good with the Scout box bolt pattern. Unfortunately, they’ll need to be filled and new holes cut and sleeved. Not sure yet if the Ford shock towers will be usable. Could possibly notch it. May go with shock hoops. Don’t know yet.
Somehow the pitman arm, even being dropped compared to the straight Jeep Cherokee pitman, sits further forward than the Scout, requiring the box to be moved back towards the cab. Not much, but just enough that nothing already in place will work.
The front holes match up pretty good with the Scout box bolt pattern. Unfortunately, they’ll need to be filled and new holes cut and sleeved. Not sure yet if the Ford shock towers will be usable. Could possibly notch it. May go with shock hoops. Don’t know yet.
Somehow the pitman arm, even being dropped compared to the straight Jeep Cherokee pitman, sits further forward than the Scout, requiring the box to be moved back towards the cab. Not much, but just enough that nothing already in place will work.
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Well it looks like your going to be doing exactly one of my tasks soon, looking fw to seeing your progress on the shock mounts & steering box. (Man that thing is ugly, mind you my 62 box is a mass of rust)
Throw that thing in a bucket and send it to West Texas Off Road for a rebuild.
Good idea Ron - I will look into that.
