alia176
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Question regarding intercoolers,
If mounted in ftont of the radiator, doesn't that restrict the air flow to the rad? Always wondered...No issues?
Out of curiosity has anyone ran one of these with a standalone ECU? I understand its definitely not required but just curious if anyone has taken that next step.
Doubt since OBD2. The 93/94 will either need to or piggybackOut of curiosity has anyone ran one of these with a standalone ECU? I understand its definitely not required but just curious if anyone has taken that next step.
To my knowledge, no one to date is running our kit with a standalone yet. There will be several coming up soon between some 1FZ's in 80's out in the wild, one in house and a really custom 45LV, really looking forward to seeing that one finishedOut of curiosity has anyone ran one of these with a standalone ECU? I understand its definitely not required but just curious if anyone has taken that next step.
I couldnt get my cruiser to 7500 if I tried but I do drive to Moab through the CO passes all the time.Another data point for @JoeCova
Imagine driving your 7500lb 80 over a long distance over the mountains with the cruise control activated the ENTIRE time. Sure she'll downshift but she'll return to OD early and w/o screaming at 4k. Speed costs, as we all know!
I dyno’ed my rig, pre-turbo, before install of my WE turbo kit. 120 HP.Interested to look at the dyno graph, that's very good stock power for a 1FZ
Yes but it's minimal.
Foam seal between intercooler edges and rad, so air has to pass through both.
You're only cooling charge air a small portion of total running time, most of the time. Ie, only when turbo is on boost.
With an efficient turbo boosting below 14psi, you're not adding a huge amount of heat anyway.
Gains will be small vs non-intercooled unless you're boosting more than 14psi.
I'd question if the gains offset the downside of lag on a gas engine.
I tested intercoolers in front of and below the radiator in 80 series extensively. I'm in a pretty mild climate and coolant temps got out of control real quick with the IC in front of the radiator. And forget using AC.
Granted I'm dealing with engines making 30-50 PSI.
Intercooling and a high flow airbox sucking air from outside the engine compartment are requirements for a fun turbodiesel in an 80 IMO.
The 80 series radiator is just good enough to cool a very fun amount of power in a warmer climate. Adding an intercooler in front of it is less than ideal.
Fast XFI 2.0 way beyond stock build in the works.Out of curiosity has anyone ran one of these with a standalone ECU? I understand its definitely not required but just curious if anyone has taken that next step.
Quite a few of us with different turbo systems and Haltech stand alone ECUs, with superb results.Out of curiosity has anyone ran one of these with a standalone ECU? I understand its definitely not required but just curious if anyone has taken that next step.
Nice, are you running an auto trans as well?Quite a few of us with different turbo systems and Haltech stand alone ECUs, with superb results.
You’re more than welcome to take mine for a spin! It’s at Johnny’s shop!I kinda want to buy an 80 to put this kit on it now.
Totally different but…I have a factory turbo diesel cruiser. Upgrading to just a different turbo (Holset he221w brand new) cost me $1500 for turbo, adapter, hoses, silicon, wastegate adapter, dump pipe, drain pipe and no exhaust.
This also counts wrong parts, shipping, any other I had to buy tools.
This did not count the hours and hours of research, time spent running around and looking all over for parts that fit.
That’s $1,500 for something already turbo’d, just needing simple adapters and hoses and is pretty much idiot proof in terms up setup/tuning.
Designing a turbo kit TO SELL, that is complete, tested and all figured out with ecm/fueling and all adapters for a specialty vehicle that never was turbo’d?
Seems like a pretty fair deal to me.
They are just down the road from me, less than an hour so I should go check this out.
Really hoping to give it back very very soon! Hopefully there's a big update for the Colorado people next week...You’re more than welcome to take mine for a spin! It’s at Johnny’s shop!
Kind of reminds me that I should actually take mine for a spin as well.![]()
You’re more than welcome to take mine for a spin! It’s at Johnny’s shop!
Kind of reminds me that I should actually take mine for a spin as well.![]()
Yes, auto trans. The stock ECU remains as it controls the transmission.Nice, are you running an auto trans as well?
Ok last questions as to not further derail this thread - but I think it's useful info for those with the kit.Yes, auto trans. The stock ECU remains as it controls the transmission.
The stock ECU to trans connections are maintained, so I don't know what sensors are being used for transmission control. The Haltech is capable of transmission control as well, but it is more involved than I have time for at the moment. Stock distributor and coil is being used. I have the Nomad Valve Body upgrade and have had no problems thus far.Ok last questions as to not further derail this thread - but I think it's useful info for those with the kit.
What sensors do you need to (via a Y connection?) give to the stock ECU for it to control the trans fine, TPS, temp, crank? And what are you running for timing, signal off the stock distributor or did you do something with a cam and hall effect sensor? (Seems that this would be possible with a 105 series 1FZ-FE cam as it has a trigger on it) And is the shift programming still sufficient with the extra power?