Land Cruiser 80 Series HDJ 80 Leaking Green Fluid

[xna0329]

Hello from Alaska, everyone!
Hope you're all doing well! First off, a big thank you to everyone in this forum—your shared knowledge and support have been incredibly helpful. You guys are awesome! I finally got the chance to buy my first Land Cruiser 80 Series—a 1993 Turbo Diesel with 85k miles and left-hand drive. I've never driven a vehicle this old before, and I have to say, it's a unique experience! That said, I recently discovered a leak under the passenger side, just behind the front wheel. It looks like the fluid is coming from two parallel pipes. The liquid is green and very watery, which makes me think it might be coolant. I suspect these pipes are part of the rear heater system, but I'd really appreciate if someone could confirm that.

A friend also mentioned it could be the high and low-pressure A/C lines. Either way, it seems like these pipes need to be replaced. Do you have any recommendations for replacement pipe types or materials? I've attached some pictures for reference. Thanks again, everyone!

 

[Kernal]

Rear heater pipes (going to the rear heater located under the right front seat).
Remove the heat shields (held up by 10mm nuts on short studs, spray with penetrating oil first), to get a closer look.
Could be from the hoses or the pipes (or clamps) have corroded.
Rear heater hoses are 1/2" ID: Gates Green Stripe heater hose is a suitable replacement.

See Red arrow (the water heater hose/pipe diagram is for a FZJ80 so will not be exactly the same as your Turbo Diesel 80)

 

[xna0329]

Rear heater pipes (going to the rear heater located under the right front seat).
Remove the heat shields (10mm nuts, spray with penetrating oil first), to get a closer look.
Could be from the hose or the pipe has corroded.

See Red arrow:

View attachment 3875884

Thank you very much Kernal! Are those two pipes the same diameter? It seems one is bigger than the other to me? Also, can I use 1/2 inch silicone hose to replace them or I will have to order them from Toyota. Thank again!

 

[Kernal]

Those specific hoses are not available from Toyota as the pipes originally came with the hoses attached. You could find another Toyota 1/2" ID
heater hose (from another application) and cut to fit or (easier) use the Gates Green Stripe 1/2" heater hose which is equivalent in quality as OEM. Do not use silicone hoses, they don't/won't stick to the metal pipes (which helps decrease leaks) and water (vapor) can even leak directly through the walls. Gates Green Stripe will last 30 years like the OEM hoses. Also, IMO, do not use Generic cheapo heater hose.

Expect to find at least some corrosion of the pipes, might be under the hose.

 

[xna0329]

Those specific hoses are not available from Toyota as the pipes originally came with the hoses attached. You could find another Toyota 1/2" ID
heater hose (from another application) and cut to fit or (easier) use the Gates Green Stripe 1/2" heater hose which is equivalent in quality as OEM. Do not use silicone hoses, they don't/won't stick to the metal pipes (which helps decrease leaks) and water (vapor) can even leak directly through the walls. Gates Green Stripe will last 30 years like the OEM hoses. Also, IMO, do not use Generic cheapo heater hose.

Expect to find at least some corrosion of the pipes, might be under the hose.

Do you also have any recommendations on the hose clamps?

 

[Kernal]

OEM Toyota spring type clamps work well, just need to find the correct size for the OD of the hose you're installing.

One example of an OEM hose clamp (90467-21010) that fits a 5/8" ID OEM Toyota water heater hose
(it may fit the Gates Green Stripe 1/2" ID hose for the rear heater system, but double check)

IME the Gates Green Stripe heater hose (1/2" or 5/8" ID) are both slightly fatter (OD) compared to the equivalent OEM Toyota heater hose
which means if the OEM hose came with a standard clamp you may have to up one size. The hose clamps on the rear heater pipes
came attached with "sardine can" ribbon-type clamps (which are not all that great IMHO, one reason is they allow water/coolant to get between
the hose and the pipe leaking to corrosion of the pipe under the hose)


Another clamp type are the Breeze Constant Torque AS clamps (with smooth bands) which work well IME (be sure to buy the originals Made in USA, there are Made in Chy-nuh cheapo copies):

Breeze - Breeze Constant-Torque® - Breeze Hose Clamps

www.breezehoseclamps.com

 

[xna0329]

OEM Toyota spring type clamps work well, just need to find the correct size for the OD of the hose you're installing.

One example of an OEM hose clamp (90467-21010) that fits a 5/8" ID OEM Toyota water heater hose
(it may fit the Gates Green Stripe 1/2" ID hose for the rear heater system, but double check)


View attachment 3875957


IME the Gates Green Stripe heater hose (1/2" or 5/8" ID) are both slightly fatter (OD) compared to the equivalent OEM Toyota heater hose
which means if the OEM hose came with a standard clamp you may have to up one size. The hose clamps on the rear heater pipes
came attached with "sardine can" ribbon-type clamps (which are not all that great IMHO, one reason is they allow water/coolant to get between
the hose and the pipe leaking to corrosion of the pipe under the hose)


Another clamp type are the Breeze Constant Torque AS clamps (with smooth bands) which work well IME (be sure to buy the originals Made in USA, there are Made in Chy-nuh cheapo copies):

Breeze - Breeze Constant-Torque® - Breeze Hose Clamps

www.breezehoseclamps.com

Thank you for your help on this. I just found some Breeze Constant Torque liner Clamps on Amazon, $15 bucks each.... omg great! lol

 

[TurboDennis]

Kernal is correct for the most part, except original hoses being 1/2" or 5/8" or whatever. Thankfully, Toyota engineers had no desire to use archaic measurement system anywhere on these trucks (OK, except rims maybe), and water hoses are no exception. The actual heater hoses are 17mm and 14mm ID (i believe, from memory). It's just by sheer luck that it happens to be "close enough" (sometimes) to fractional inch sizes where you may get away with it.

May not be critical with the heater hoses, but it is in some other parts of the truck, so it's always a good practice to use correctly-sized METRIC hoses.

 

[Kernal]

IIRC I said if the OP could find another Toyota heater hose (that would be metric of course) he could cut it to fit as the specific hoses (see Post #1) that may be leaking are not available individually from Toyota. One option would be to use easily available 1/2" ID heater hose for the rear heater system which is known to fit (been discussed many times).

There are of course sources of metric water hoses (Made in Germany) if someone wants to order them:

Metric Cooling Water Hose

www.newcoproducts.com

FWIW when I replaced all the heater hoses on my 97 FZJ80 I used an OEM Toyota 100 Series rear heater hose (metric) which I cut to the correct length (got two sections out of one hose). In the other areas I used the Gates Green Stripe hose (1/2" and 5/8") and did not notice any appreciable difference in how those inch fraction hoses fit onto the pipes. Been a couple of years since all those hoses were replaced and not one drop of leakage.

Here's a couple of photos:

Gates 5/8" hose on the left. OEM Metric hose on the right.

Top Hoses off the T: one Gates 5/8" inch fraction formed water hose, one OEM metric (FZJ80) hose, and the bottom ~90' metric hose (formed section cut from a 100 Series water hose):

 

[xna0329]

IIRC I said if the OP could find another Toyota heater hose (that would be metric of course) he could cut it to fit as the specific hoses (see Post #1) that may be leaking are not available individually from Toyota. One option would be to use easily available 1/2" ID heater hose for the rear heater system which is known to fit (been discussed many times).

FWIW when I replaced all the heater hoses on my 97 FZJ80 I used an OEM Toyota 100 Series rear heater hose (metric) which I cut to the correct length (got two sections out of one hose). In the other areas I used the Gates Green Stripe hose (1/2" and 5/8") and did not notice any appreciable difference in how those inch fraction hoses fit onto the pipes. Been a couple of years since all those hoses were replaced and not one drop of leakage.

Here's a couple of photos:

View attachment 3876130

View attachment 3876131


There are of course sources of metric hoses if someone wants to order them:

Metric Cooling Water Hose

www.newcoproducts.com

How can you keep your engine bay that clean??? Mine is .... OMG I do not even want to look at it. Did you wash the engine bay or just hand clean it?

 

[Kernal]

It's not all that clean, the white color helps hide the dust. I was in the middle of a lot of maintenance when those photos were taken. Had the valve cover Cerakoted, replaced the heat control valve and all water hoses including the PHH, water bypass hoses, radiator hoses, all new hose clamps (Gates PowerGrip SB clamps), new EGR valve and vacuum modulator, wrapped engine harness, completely cleaned Throttle Body with new TB and IAC valve gaskets, replaced all vacuum hoses (metric Toyota), replaced cable coverings with marine grade adhesive lined heat shrink tubing, new Iridium TT spark plugs and OEM plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, distributor O-ring, new valve cover bolts, and all new oil pressure sensor, belts, water pump, alternator, idler pulley, AC tensioner pulley, Fan clutch, harmonic balancer, front crank seal, oil pump cover gasket, ----).

Point is, most of the bits and pieces were off the engine so it was a good time to clean everything up, mostly by hand, some washing of the lower front/bottom of the engine using mild soap and a garden hose.

 

[NeverFinis]

View attachment 3876130

That looks very nice. The U-Bend in that location is still available from Toyota.

OP, in my experience, if the rear lines are leaking, then you need to replace the hardlines as well and not just the rubber. They are very rust prone. I am not sure the rear seat heater hardlines behind the engine are replaceable without pulling/shifting the engine. I only replaced that section when I swapped engines.

 

[Kernal]

"The U-Bend in that location is still available from Toyota"

Yes, it still is last I checked. I used the Gates hose #18701 and cut it to fit as no one had the Toyota U-bend water heater hose (from a Diesel 80 Series) in stock at the time. Also I did not delete my rear heater circuit. FWIW

Back to the OP's question:

Agree, the pipes more often are the source of the leak, the steel pipes tend to corrode from the outside in, IME.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------




Just for future reference regarding the U-bend hose options (don't want to take the OP's original question too far off track)
but I'll add this link for future searches:

Start reading at Post #22:

Found a Gates heater hose to replace the hose-U pipe-hose at the heat control valve

forum.ih8mud.com

Here's a link to a vendor that sells the Diesel 80 Series Toyota U-bend water heater hose (generally used when eliminating the rear heater circuit in a FZJ80)

LCP - Rear Heater Delete Hose

Molded Rear Heater Delete Hose The upgraded installation with a perfectly molded hose.

sites.google.com

 

[xna0329]

"The U-Bend in that location is still available from Toyota"

Yes, it still is last I checked. I used the Gates hose #18701 and cut it to fit as no one had the Toyota U-bend water heater hose (from a Diesel 80 Series) in stock at the time. Also I did not delete my rear heater circuit. FWIW

Back to the OP's question:

Agree, the pipes more often are the source of the leak, the steel pipes tend to corrode from the outside in, IME.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------




Just for future reference regarding the U-bend hose options (don't want to take the OP's original question too far off track)
but I'll add this link for future searches:

Start reading at Post #22:

Found a Gates heater hose to replace the hose-U pipe-hose at the heat control valve

forum.ih8mud.com

Here's a link to a vendor that sells the Diesel 80 Series Toyota U-bend water heater hose (generally used when eliminating the rear heater circuit in a FZJ80)

LCP - Rear Heater Delete Hose

Molded Rear Heater Delete Hose The upgraded installation with a perfectly molded hose.

sites.google.com

is there a hardline inside the rubber hose?

 

[NeverFinis]

Rubber hose connects to the hard lines. Kernal, in post #2, posted the parts figure, which shows the hardlines. There are two hardlines, an upper and a lower. Looks like your leak is where the two hardlines meet with a rubber hose.

 

[Kernal]

@xna0329 asked: "is there a hardline inside the rubber hose?"

If you're asking is there a hardline inside the rear heater hoses under the vehicle (where your leak appears to be in the photos), then the answer is no.
There are two sections of pipes (hardlines) with hoses connecting those sections to each other (see the diagrams above).

If you're asking if there's a hardline inside the U-shaped hose connecting the heat control valve on the firewall to a black pipe (that has two side pipes, not shown), the answer is also no.

I modified that section of the water heater circuit ie: I removed the Original metal U pipe and the two short OEM hoses and replaced those three pieces (hose-U-pipe-hose) with the U shaped (formed) hose shown above. This mod also eliminated two hose clamps.

(note: this applies to a US spec FZJ80)

 

[xna0329]

@xna0329 asked: "is there a hardline inside the rubber hose?"

If you're asking is there a hardline inside the rear heater hoses under the vehicle (where your leak appears to be in the photos), then the answer is no.
There are two sections of pipes (hardlines) with hoses connecting those sections to each other (see the diagrams above).

If you're asking if there's a hardline inside the U-shaped hose connecting the heat control valve on the firewall to a black pipe (that has two side pipes, not shown), the answer is also no.

I modified that section of the water heater circuit ie: I removed the Original metal U pipe and the two short OEM hoses and replaced those three pieces (hose-U-pipe-hose) with the U shaped (formed) hose shown above. This mod also eliminated two hose clamps.

I am so glad to have you guys here!!! Thank you all!!!

 

[Kernal]

There is a Mud Diesel Tech forum which may have more Diesel specific information about your HDJ80:

Diesel Tech / 24 volts

BJ/HJ diesels (3B, 13BT, 1KZ, 1HZ, 1PZ, etc) and other diesel conversions (ie: Isuzu, Hino, 4BT, 6BT, etc)

forum.ih8mud.com