Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up (10 Viewers)

[Randy88FJ62]

With all the mods and stuff you do I find it hard to believe you haven't upgraded to a selectable front locker.

 

[cruisermatt]

With all the mods and stuff you do I find it hard to believe you haven't upgraded to a selectable front locker.

I actually really really want a selectable rear locker first. Just haven't been able to drop the cash on it. Still on broke college student budget. Soon though. The semi expensive things i wanted to buy first are new rear shocks a power steering pump upgrade, and the power steering pump upgrade stuff is on the way. Hoping to get new rear shocks on in the next two weeks too. Then I'll start saving for an ARB.

 

[cruisermatt]

Ok so I had some time this morning and got the mainshaft torn down the rest of the way. I think I found two issues. 1. Think the rear bearing race was spinning in the case. There are rotational marks on the outer surface. It is supposed to be a slip fit and installed by hand. The new race is a little bit more snug, but not much. I’m going to try a little expirement tonight with some Loctite bearing retaining compound on the old race and see how it feels without the rest of the assembly.

2. it looks like one or both of the thrust surfaces on 2nd gear are worn allowing the gear to thrust about .018-.020”. I’m going to call the transmission supplier tomorrow and see what a new gear measures.

I was really hoping to reassemble and install today but I’d rather it be right. The nice thing is a new 2nd gear is only about $80 and the supplier is only a few hours away.

 

[cruisermatt]

 

[cruisermatt]

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Ok so I had some time this morning and got the mainshaft torn down the rest of the way. I think I found two issues. 1. Think the rear bearing race was spinning in the case. There are rotational marks on the outer surface. It is supposed to be a slip fit and installed by hand. The new race is a little bit more snug, but not much. I’m going to try a little expirement tonight with some Loctite bearing retaining compound on the old race and see how it feels without the rest of the assembly.

2. it looks like one or both of the thrust surfaces on 2nd gear are worn allowing the gear to thrust about .018-.020”. I’m going to call the transmission supplier tomorrow and see what a new gear measures.

I was really hoping to reassemble and install today but I’d rather it be right. The nice thing is a new 2nd gear is only about $80 and the supplier is only a few hours away.

View attachment 2123964View attachment 2123967

Matt, were there no shims in the assembly? Rebuilt unit when you got it?

Jason

 

[cruisermatt]

There are shims that go under there, I bought a shim kit for it and shimmed it correct endplay (.002-.006” if I remember correctly.) when I rebuilt it for the second time in 2017.

No, I don’t believe it was rebuilt, doesn’t matter anymore though since almost none of the parts are the same from the original NV4500 I bought in 2015 or 16. Just the countershaft and a few gears at this point. New main case, tailhousing, mainshaft, input shaft, input retainer, reverse idler gear, 5th gear, reverse gear, and now a new 2nd gear. Purchased as a GM unit and converted to Dodge so I could use it behind the 3FE and with my 203 doubler in 2016

 

[cruisermatt]

Related, today I ordered a replacement 2nd gear and another thrust washer I was suspicious of being worn. I’ll compare new vs old when they get here.

I decided to try a retaining compound on the rear bearing race. I got ahold of a new tube of Loctite 609 and put some on the old race last night. It’s supposed to reach full strength on 24hours, after about 6 hours when I checked this morning I couldn’t move it by hand, and this race is looser then the old one. Tomorrow I’m going to try wacking it with a hammer and seeing if I can knock it out, but I suspect this should do really well to prevent the race from spinning.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That 609 is not as expensive as I thought it was.

Wondering if there's a listing for all of the gear lengths somewhere.

 

[ArizonaFJ]

We used that Loctite on the generator side of a small gen set many years ago. I don't remember the details but the generator did run at least a couple more summers (24/7 for four months) without issue. I suspect it'll work fine for you if there's just looseness and not actual play (if that makes sense).

 

[cruisermatt]

That 609 is not as expensive as I thought it was.

Wondering if there's a listing for all of the gear lengths somewhere.

It's free if you know the right people.

Im sure there’s dimensions somewhere, nowhere I could find though. We’ll compare a new gear and mine soon.

 

[cruisermatt]

We used that Loctite on the generator side of a small gen set many years ago. I don't remember the details but the generator did run at least a couple more summers (24/7 for four months) without issue. I suspect it'll work fine for you if there's just looseness and not actual play (if that makes sense).

Cool. I would say "loose but without play" describes it pretty well. It's just a bit too loose of a slip-fit. Like if the race or case bore were 0.002" closer in size it would be perfect. I'm going to use this retaining compound on both rear bearing cups.

 

[cruisermatt]

 

[hygge]

@cruisermatt beer should help with that headache. I'll let you know next time I find myself in ORL.

 

[cruisermatt]

Ok so small update. New 2nd gear came in earlier this month, and measured exactly the same as the old one. So I returned the new one and my friends and I went to assemble and managed to split the input retainer trying to get the race out. So ordered a new input retainer, it got here yesterday, finished building transmission last night (1am) and just stuck it in the truck a few hours ago. So much easier without the T-case installed. I’ll throw the T-case and doubler in tomorrow morning.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Hey Matt so was it the bearing not being pressed on all the way i believe thats what you found out correct me if i am wrong. I am sure your happy its going back together lol. If you dont mind me asking i am sure its 8n your build thread how long is your transmission bellhousing to rear tcase output flange just curious has to be long.
Tommy

 

[cruisermatt]

Hey Matt so was it the bearing not being pressed on all the way i believe thats what you found out correct me if i am wrong. I am sure your happy its going back together lol. If you dont mind me asking i am sure its 8n your build thread how long is your transmission bellhousing to rear tcase output flange just curious has to be long.
Tommy

I didn't really find a conclusive issue why it killed the bearings this time. The only issues I found were the oil hole for the input bearing clogged with RTV and the rear bearing racing a bit too loose. I just don't think either of these are enough to kill a 1-ton truck transmission in 4-5K miles.. who knows. We'll see what happens.
I think the issue you're referring to was a gear not being pressed on all the way which was when I first put it together back in 16. That gear needs to go over a snap ring so it compresses it. Kind of weird the way you have to force it down over the snap ring. The assembly instructions don't say a word about it either, I don't blame anyone that makes the same mistake.

I'll get a measurement for you tomorrow, bellhousing included?
The current line up is:
1. Classic aluminum GM truck bellhouing (SM465 style I think)
2. AA adapter plate to Dodge (7/8" thick)
3. Dodge NV4500
4. 203 GRB
5. AA/Jerry Nichols Adapter
6. Split case

The doubler is neat but very outdated. I probably would not choose it again, not worth the long/heavy drivetrain and short rear driveline and it's only 2:1 reduction. The Marlin boxes make a bit more sense to me since they have lower gearing options and are short and lightweight but good luck keeping them in one piece let alone actually getting them to ship anything in your lifetime

 

[cruisermatt]

I'm more annoyed because I have a bunch of fun small projects lined up that I can't start until I get this transmission taken care of

 

[Hojack]

Unfortunately the NV4500 is not a quiet transmission either. Mine has a groan in 4th between 1600-1800 rpms particularly when going up hill. Read many threads and it seems to be the nature of the beast. I’m learning how to control the noise by adjusting driving habits.

 

[cruisermatt]

Yes, I have read the same things. I've also driven and ridden in NV4500 trucks that make zero noise. You can't hear the NV in my friend's 2500 Ram at all. His isn't a frankenstein GM/Dodge hybrid though. I think a lot of it could be eliminated in our 60's by adding extra sound insulation on the floors, dash, and doors. That's one of those projects I can't find the time to do when I have mechanical issues.