Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up (8 Viewers)

[Output Shaft]

This project is jaw dropping. Beyond ambitious.

 

[cruisermatt]

Wtf adapter do you have there? I don't think my AA adapter is that long.

Edit: 203 case gotcha!

Also I didn't need to cut my floor at all for an nv4500. Seems you have a lot going on here but good choice of trans! I know I like the super low 1st!

I think I could have used a normal AA adapter (NV4500 + splitcase) and it would clear pretty well, besides the shift tower being 3" more rearwards. But, doubler.

 

[cruisermatt]

This project is jaw dropping. Beyond ambitious.

At least there's no turning back

 

[cruisermatt]

This project is jaw dropping. Beyond ambitious.

Also, wait till I start the suspension mods!

If you give an engineer a Land Cruiser...

 

[crashmonk]

I believe an engineer would include a turbo diesel

 

[OGBeno]

I believe an engineer would include a turbo diesel

A Toyota Turbo Diesel.

 

[cruisermatt]

A Toyota Turbo Diesel.

If I could bolt a 1HZ to an NV4500 using off-the-shelf parts I would. But lack of time for custom bellhousing (and funds for aforementioned 1HZ) has trumped for the time being...

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I am impressed! You actually did it!!

Make sure to leave enough room behind the split case in the floor opening to be able to service the split case (or even pull the entire adapter off) without dropping the whole drivetrain.

 

[cruisermatt]

I am impressed! You actually did it!!

Make sure to leave enough room behind the split case in the floor opening to be able to service the split case (or even pull the entire adapter off) without dropping the whole drivetrain.

That probably won't be possible (I'm NOT cutting the under-floor brace that the seatbelts and front seats bolt to, I'll put the H41 back in before that). However, I should be able to just unbolt my crossmember and with a floor jack lower the whole assembly.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

You've already cut apart the crossmember that gave the seat mounts support. Why is the other somehow more important?

You'll be bracing it in from the top anyway. I'm telling you, you'll want to be able to service everything without dropping the drivetrain.

 

[White Stripe]

A body lift only minimally increases cog since it doesn't raise the chassis also, not really enough to worry about unless you put a roof rack on with 500lbs of stuff in it, then ya it will increase cog a lot. I love my body lift, and it leaves room for bigger tires without chopping up the nice body. Plus its much easier to do drivetrain work.

 

[cruisermatt]

@GLTHFJ60

I'll take a look at it the next time I work on it and see what I'm working with. And I agree with you by the way, I do WANT to be able to service everything without dropping the drivetrain...

And now that I think about it I don't think I'd actually be able to pull the transmission OUT with the motor IN, at least probably not safely.

 

[cruisermatt]

A body lift only minimally increases cog since it doesn't raise the chassis also, not really enough to worry about unless you put a roof rack on with 500lbs of stuff in it, then ya it will increase cog a lot. I love my body lift, and it leaves room for bigger tires without chopping up the nice body. Plus its much easier to do drivetrain work.

I'm planning on about 3-4" more of suspension lift and 37's. (Basically stock ride height now with 35's). Want to keep it low as possible.

And I'm a bit beyond chopping up the body . Plans to cut fenders and rear 1/4's as well.

 

[White Stripe]

I'm planning on about 3-4" more of suspension lift and 37's. (Basically stock ride height now with 35's). Want to keep it low as possible.

And I'm a bit beyond chopping up the body . Plans to cut fenders and rear 1/4's as well.

My cruiser is significantly more stable with a low suspension lift and body lift than cruisers that achieve the same lift strictly through suspension lift. On side hills where those guys are pissing their pants, Im just shrugging my shoulders and cruisin through. Also, now that my body is lifted off the frame a bit, it allowed me to move the sliders upward more, I hit the sliders less which is good because they act kind of like a boat anchor slightly on obstacles if they are dragging. In addition, less suspension lift creates less anti squat in the rear suspension, too much antisquat can hamper the ability to hook up well on steep climbs. That being said, it takes somebody with fabrication skills to make a body lift look good. Very few people notice I even have one. When I was at Cruise Moab I think I had one guy noticed I had a 2" body lift, and he has seen my cruiser several times at prior events, and he finally noticed it.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

A body lift is by no stretch of the imagination a way to make a lifted vehicle feel stable. The "pissing their pants" feeling is more a function of someone's comfort level with their vehicle rather than how the vehicle is set up. Furthermore, thinking that raising the body does not affect the CoG of the vehicle is nonsense.

If you take a OME medium or heavy suspension on a stock 60 and run a trail that puts you off camber, it'll perform exactly the same, if not better, than the same truck with a 2" body lift. How level the body is through an obstacle is a product of suspension performance only.


Now, in matt's case, he could have done a body lift to avoid cutting into the floor quite as bad, but I like his approach!!

 

[klinetime574]

Should we just figure that an FJ6Xs body is about 20% of total weight? Not counting roof racks, cargo drawers, etc.

I think in this case a little bit of body lift would have been a good thing for drive train clearance.

With a majority of the weight being in the drive train, what actually would hurt you is suspension lift.

I can understand @White Stripe 's point. And me being a purist, those body cuts are cutting me deep. I understand that more weight higher up = bad. I just find this discussion technically challenging

 

[White Stripe]

A body lift is by no stretch of the imagination a way to make a lifted vehicle feel stable. The "pissing their pants" feeling is more a function of someone's comfort level with their vehicle rather than how the vehicle is set up. Furthermore, thinking that raising the body does not affect the CoG of the vehicle is nonsense.

If you take a OME medium or heavy suspension on a stock 60 and run a trail that puts you off camber, it'll perform exactly the same, if not better, than the same truck with a 2" body lift. How level the body is through an obstacle is a product of suspension performance only.


Now, in matt's case, he could have done a body lift to avoid cutting into the floor quite as bad, but I like his approach!!

I didn't say a body lift does not lift cog. I said it minimally does. If you lift the body 2", it is basically lifting 1000lbs of weight 2". If you lift the suspension 2", it is lifting about 4000lbs 2". That makes a difference on a side hill. It also makes a difference on a hill climb, the higher the cog, the worse a truck climbs. Lifting the whole chassis increases the cog of the vehicle more compared to lifting just the body. Now of course if you have crappy springs and shocks and overall suspension, then yes that will affect overall flex and stuff too.

 

[cruisermatt]

@White Stripe

While you are correct I think you misinterpreted what I am saying. I have an overall plan for where I want the truck to be set-up suspension wise and from there I want to keep it as low as possible AFTER my lift. I'm planning a front 3-link with ORI's and a rear SOA with 63" Chevy springs. To get the vertical separations and flat links I want in looking at a couple inches of suspension lift FROM STOCK. If I can avoid raising the body I will. A 2" suspension lift and 2" body lift won't work for what I want.

 

[White Stripe]

Cool. Just talking tech. Not trying to say u have a bad setup or plan or anything.

 

[crashmonk]

I can think of several good turbo diesels that bolt up to the nv4500.

You are putting non Toyota parts in your rig already...

If I could bolt a 1HZ to an NV4500 using off-the-shelf parts I would. But lack of time for custom bellhousing (and funds for aforementioned 1HZ) has trumped for the time being...