Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up (2 Viewers)

[Hojack]

I don’t see dropping the fuel tank as a big deal like most on here, but I decided to put in this marine access hatch over the tank. It was cheap and same-day on Prime ($50) so I just went for it. The quality is not great.
Because of the way I mounted it (I didn’t want to cut into the body crossmember) you can’t remove the pump module through the hatch with the tank still strapped because of the hardlines, but this will make getting the electrical connectors and bolts a ton easier.
It should come out through the top with the tank lowered a few inches.
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That hatch is a great idea... dude your having too much fun. Not very many posts from you recently and then a tidal wave of them all the sudden. Keep it coming.

 

[cruisermatt]

I moved my rear axle back an inch on the perch position a few months ago but didn’t change my driveshaft at all and I think I am getting a small vibration since the slip yoke is towards the end of its engagement. Anyways a GX470 front driveshaft fit perfectly before I moved the axle, but apparently the modern style Toyota friction-welded driveline are really expensive to modify, or can’t be, or whatever. Driveshaft shop said they couldn’t do it.

Anyways,
I had a good friend CNC up a nice driveshaft spacer to go on the T-case. I bought one from Low Range but none of the patterns where right and I didn’t feel like dealing with finding/installing longer studs for the T-case output.
This uses the the stock studs and another set of bolts will thread into the spacer.
I just need to add counterbores on the through-holes for the nuts and I can install it.
I have been thinking that the weight of this will also act as a damper as well.

 

[cruisermatt]

That hatch is a great idea... dude your having too much fun. Not very many posts from you recently and then a tidal wave of them all the sudden. Keep it coming.

Thanks. The hatch is a DECENT idea. There’s already an access for the guage sender. And the tank still needs to be dropped a few inches to remove the pump. I may get a bigger (nicer quality) hatch that lets me completely remove the pump with the tank in place one day.

 

[cruisermatt]

That hatch is a great idea... dude your having too much fun. Not very many posts from you recently and then a tidal wave of them all the sudden. Keep it coming.

Thanks. I have had time here and there, a few hours here, a day there to work on stuff, I’ve been doing a lot of my own project starting and not a lot of FINISHING, and I think people like pictures and not my walls of text of my thoughts and musings.

I’ve been busy with a lot of projects on other Cruisers too.

 

[cruisermatt]

Front axle put together with new RCV 30 spline shafts, fixed locker (I put the springs and pins in backwards when I was 17 and they were all floating at the bottom of the housing, so I basically had a front spool), new spindles, thicker felt rings (a nice piece from Trail Fear actually), changed spindle bolts to studs. You can also see the steering knuckles are reversed. Sneak peak in the second pic.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

What studs did you use in the knuckles for the spindle?

And, what brand are those knuckle backing plates? The ones I got from terrain tamer have cheap plating on them and came with pit rust already on them.

And.... why new spindles?

 

[cruisermatt]

I felt plates are Trail Gear.. one of thier few products that’s not a knockoff of someone else. Ordered those and the studs from LROR (Low Range Offroad)

 

[Randy88FJ62]

What length bolts are required for the new TG knuckle backing plates? I guess I can do the math and back calculate off their page .125" versus stock .040".

 

[cruisermatt]

I think the original are 10mm long and I used 16mm. So the added thickness plus a bit more. The extra length plus some blue threadlocker prevents them from getting knocked loose on the trail. I’ll be home in a minute and will confirm length.

EDIT 12mm long.

 

[cruisermatt]

And.... why new spindles?

One of the bushings in one of my original spindles was completely blown out from breaking five or six birfs in it, and a new pair of spindle bushings was like $50 something, plus they’re a pain to change. I found a pair of new spindles for $100 to my door with bushings installed already.
Plus now I have my old ones as for doing future bench mockups.

 

[cruisermatt]

@Randy88FJ62

12mm long.

 

[cruisermatt]

Threw the front end back under the truck so it stopped taking up floor space in the shop. @CaptClose was in town from TX and lent a hand.

Truck has been sitting for almost six weeks now.. it was supposed to be a weekend rebuild, I swear
Just need my caliper brackets now and should be ready to roll with the new brake upgrade. I will post that up in detail when it’s completed and I’ve put some miles on it, but it will probably be of little interest to 99% of readers since it requires a fair amount of machine work.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

So why didn't you use 6 stud knuckles? Way better in my experience with much stronger components. And Heims? You're going to be replacing a lot of steering components yearly. Good choice on the 300m RCV stuff though. I've been running Longfields/RCVs for 10 years with no breakage.

 

[cruisermatt]

Tonight’s project was the front driveshaft. Cheap and strong is the theme here. 2.5” schedule 40 pipe (0.200” wall thickness) with yokes and slip joint from late-model Toyota’s, GX470, Tundra, 100 series, etc. They allow much higher angle then the older Cruiser yokes. I am running a GX470 front DS as my rear DS with a 1” spacer so I’ll just pick up an extra GX front for a complete spare, and a spare single u-joint and I’ll be good to go for trail spares.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Cool that you got to hang w/ Ryan, @CaptClose. He’s a great guy. He was one of my biggest text/FaceTime supporters way back when I really started pulling my truck apart.

 

[cruisermatt]

So why didn't you use 6 stud knuckles? Way better in my experience with much stronger components. And Heims? You're going to be replacing a lot of steering components yearly. Good choice on the 300m RCV stuff though. I've been running Longfields/RCVs for 10 years with no breakage.

I haven’t no upgraded the knuckles/arms yet because I haven’t had an issue with knuckle studs at all yet, thus it was not worth it to me to spend the money on them. If I have an issue I will upgrade for sure, and it will be overkill to the max. Keyed, bigger studs, etc. I’ve got custom arms drawn up already.

I love the heims. It steers super tight. I was wearing out stock 60 TRE’s yearly so why not wear out something way easier to replace? No taper to hammer out, no seized threads, no having to cut TREs off when the ball joint spins in its housing, etc.

 

[CaptClose]

Cool that you got to hang w/ Ryan, @CaptClose. He’s a great guy. He was one of my biggest text/FaceTime supporters way back when I really started pulling my truck apart.

I’ve always kind of thought Capt was kind of a dick. But he had a nice Cruiser... then he sold it, so whatevs.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I’ve always kind of thought Capt was kind of a dick. But he had a nice Cruiser... then he sold it, so whatevs.

I forgot to add he’s a total weirdo too and makes up all sorts of crazy stories. You shoulda heard the one he told me about the Texan who got blitzed and was wandering around a hotel looking for his room while only wearing boxers.

 

[cruisermatt]

Alright get a room you two

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Alright get a room you two

Not me or him! It was a true story tho. Seriously funny.