Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up (6 Viewers)

[cruisermatt]

I wanted a quick fun project so I added a cheap light bar and some rock lights. I still need to install the the pair in the rear wheel wells.
Need to wire them up, I will be building a nice switch panel for the dash, installing a new aux fuse block, along with getting the winch wired up. I decided it made sense to just do the majority of the electrical accessories I want all at the same time.

 

[Hojack]

I wanted a quick fun project so I added a cheap light bar and some rock lights. I still need to install the the pair in the rear wheel wells.
Need to wire them up, I will be building a nice switch panel for the dash, installing a new aux fuse block, along with getting the winch wired up. I decided it made sense to just do the majority of the electrical accessories I want all at the same time.

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Now we need to see those give off some mood lighting

 

[NookShneer]

I wanted a quick fun project so I added a cheap light bar and some rock lights. I still need to install the the pair in the rear wheel wells.
Need to wire them up, I will be building a nice switch panel for the dash, installing a new aux fuse block, along with getting the winch wired up. I decided it made sense to just do the majority of the electrical accessories I want all at the same time.

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Looks super clean along that frame rail. Nice work with the brake & fule line as well.

 

[cruisermatt]

Thanks dudes. Will get those wired up and post pics for sure.

I should have a pretty sweet update at the end of today!

 

[cruisermatt]

So I wanted better performing front brakes, but didn’t want to go to 17” wheels like the FROR Tundra kit requires, and I actually have been thinking of going back to 15” wheels with a 35x12.5r15.
Anyways, I had a pair of good 80 calipers on the shelf, I got a new rotor for $12 on Amazon on a whim, and had been looking into the IFS hubs and a 1/2” spacer to get rid of my 2” front spacers, so I decided to see if I could make all these parts work together.

I did, and it was a bit of work. If someone wants I can write up every detail but I doubt anyone else will copy this setup so for now I’ll just put up pics.

86-95 IFS Hub mods

 

[cruisermatt]

Rotor mods. Drilled and reamed for ARP Mitsubishi EVO extended studs.

 

[cruisermatt]

Caliper bracket to mount 80 series caliper on 60 knuckle. Machined on HAAS VF. Thanks Brandon!

 

[cruisermatt]

Then install the whole mess with 100 series pads, ARP 7/16” hub bolts, chromo hub gears, etc.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That's real innovation right there. Wonder how it performs vs the FROR tundra brakes.

 

[cruisermatt]

That's real innovation right there. Wonder how it performs vs the FROR tundra brakes.

Thanks dude.

The 80 rotors and 01-05 Tundra rotors are pretty much the same diameter but the 80 rotors are a lot thicker (better heat dissipation which is critical). The 80 calipers have bigger pistons as well, 48mm diameter va the Tundra 45.5mm. Doesn’t sound like much until you multiply that difference of volume over four pistons.

 

[Hojack]

As always looks great Matt.

 

[Hojack]

What braking issues made you go to this conversion?

 

[Randy88FJ62]

First off, nice job.

I believe 16" wheels are all that is needed for the FROR Tundra kit (not 17's). I see that you welded on some extra meat where the caliper will bolt onto your bracket. I've been eyeing the FROR brackets in my garage and thinking about doing the same thing.

What material did you use for the brackets?

What hardware did you use to bolt the manual locking hub body to the wheel hub? They don't look stock. Curious.

 

[cruisermatt]

What braking issues made you go to this conversion?

Didn’t really have issues per say. I prefer a firm brake pedal, I converted to hydroboost when I did the engine swap and it was nice and firm pedal
but I didn’t feel like the truck really stopped very well. I also glazed over the rotors really bad so I think I was overheating them.

 

[cruisermatt]

First off, nice job.

I believe 16" wheels are all that is needed for the FROR Tundra kit (not 17's). I see that you welded on some extra meat where the caliper will bolt onto your bracket. I've been eyeing the FROR brackets in my garage and thinking about doing the same thing.

What material did you use for the brackets?

What hardware did you use to bolt the manual locking hub body to the wheel hub? They don't look stock. Curious.

Thanks.
You're right, with the 01-06 you can use a 16". It's the V8 4Runner brakes with the 13.5" rotor that kit lets you use that needs a 17".

The spacer you're reffeing to actualy goes between the caliper and bracket to position the caliper correctly on the rotor. They also give me proper threads for the bolts (brackets are 0.400" and the spacers are 0.250"). Are the FROR brackets tapped or through-holes? They're only 3/8" right?

These are regular mild steel.

I converted these hubs as well as my 80 rear FF hubs to use ARP 7/16" bolts. I think I put the part number up in here at one point. Awesome upgrade. Cheaper then the ARP studs that are made to fit and stronger. And no more cone washers to hammer besides the steering arms, but I have a plan for that upgrade if I have any issues with steering arms when I finally get to wheel this thing.

 

[cruisermatt]

I also put in a reman steering pump. Turns out you damage the pump when you slam the pulley on with a sledgehammer instead of carefully pressing it on with the correct tool. Which I now own along with a new pulley.

Steering assist is improved but not as much as I’d like. I’m going to look into upgrading to a TC or CBR pump after the next few wheeling trips.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

The FROR Tacoma adapter plates are tapped for the caliper bolts.

 

[cruisermatt]

So as of recently I’ve been getting a ton of noise from my NV4500 when decelerating from high speeds in 4th and 5th gear. It also had a leak from the tailhousing. Topped off the fluid with no change.

Fearing the worst I pulled everything out this morning. Only takes 30 minutes to have the whole combo out which is nice. With the cable shifters the fiddly bits can be left installed until the everything is on the ground and then removed after which is much easier.

 

[Hojack]

So as of recently I’ve been getting a ton of noise from my NV4500 when decelerating from high speeds in 4th and 5th gear. It also had a leak from the tailhousing. Topped off the fluid with no change.

Fearing the worst I dropped the pulled everything out this morning. Only takes 30 minutes to have the whole combo out which is nice. With the cable shifters the fiddly bits can be left installed until the everything is on the ground and then removed after which is much easier.

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What’d you find out?

 

[cruisermatt]

Oh yeah, I forgot to say what the actual problem was.

The input bearing came apart. I don't remember whether I installed this bearing on this input shaft or not but after removal there isn't a brand stamped on the bottom so it might be a cheap low-quality piece. Either that or I overspun it. Or both. Either way new Timken bearing on the way.
Really glad I caught this before it completely grenaded and took out the rest of the transmission.