Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up (2 Viewers)

[White Stripe]

That's a nice looking front axle. You've really transformed that cruiser into a nice all-around rig. I'm sure it will be lots of fun.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Shackle reversal?

 

[cruisermatt]

That's a nice looking front axle. You've really transformed that cruiser into a nice all-around rig. I'm sure it will be lots of fun.

Thanks. I am kinda wishing now I had spent the time to widen the front on the short side like you did, so I could get the passenger side springs away from the diff and cut down the spring perches like I did on the rear axle. The front sits about 1/2” taller then the rear with the “new” springs. I put slightly longer shackles in the rear to which helped a little and I have airbags to install which should help some too, but I want it as low as possible. Maybe once these new front springs get some miles on them and stretch out they will flatten a bit.

 

[cruisermatt]

Shackle reversal?

Yes. It’s the only way I was able to get it so low SOA. I’ll post up a comparison picture before and after in a sec but it’s pretty much only a 4.5-5” lift from stock. All the work is documented a few pages back.

 

[cruisermatt]

Here is a good before/after comparison.
Before, completely blown out 2.5” lift, basically just over stock ride height

After, good low mileage stock rear springs up front, 3/4 ton 63” GM springs rear, shackle reversal, everything frenched, lot of work. Same axles and tires. Front axle moved forwards 3.5” rear moved back 1”

 

[CaptClose]

I gotta say... Matt is an artist. He’s one of those guys you want on your team during the apocalypse. I admire his work.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Define 'late model toyotas' for better driveline u joint angles. GX's are rare in the parts yards here but early 2000 tundras are a regular here.

 

[cruisermatt]

Define 'late model toyotas' for better driveline u joint angles. GX's are rare in the parts yards here but early 2000 tundras are a regular here.

I believe it’s the same U-joint/ slip yoke on every truck/SUV 1998-up. Tundra/Tacoma/4Runner/GX/100/200
Series, etc. same as the 80’s and 90’s mini-truck stuff. I’m sure there’s some slight part number changes through the years but it all appears the same to me.

I will take a good comparison pic of the Cruiser and mini yokes.

 

[cruisermatt]

40/60/80 joint on the right. You can see how much more angle the minitruck joint can do in the second pic. Obviously it is binding at that point but where the Cruiser joints are binding the mini stuff is still at a working angle. None of this is new information by the way, FJ40 guys have been using the mini stuff for years.

And yes, the new joints are smaller, but I don’t see anyone breaking them often. The smaller lighter joints and yokes should balance better and take less power to spin. I’m done with the Cruiser joints, I could never get them to balance that well and they would wear out like crazy on this truck.

 

[cruisermatt]

My rear driveshaft is a GX470/4Runner front that worked perfectly after I moved the transmission 2.5” forwards, but then I decided to move the rear axle back 1”, and wasn’t happy with the new DS spline engagement at ride height. I could have used a regular 1” driveshaft spacer but I didn’t want it on the pinion side, and my transfer case has studs on the output so I needed one with offset holes. I designed this spacer and my friend Mike CNC’d it for me. It is heat resistant 400-series stainless steel. It’s got some nice heft to it that I’m hoping will actually act as a damper.
Now if I need a rear u-joint or damage the driveshaft I can just go on eBay and order another used one for $50.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

I'm running a mini truck front CV in the rear of my 62 and it hasn't broken when rock crawling. Glad to know they have more range.

 

[cruisermatt]

Went outside and got the front DS put in, and decided to pull the shortest leaf out of each front pack. I don’t think they make a huge difference on the spring rate and were basically just acting like a 1/4” spacer between the leaf and perch. Pulled those out and put weight on it and it looks like the springs are sitting a touch flatter now so that’s good.
Now the front is only 3/4” taller then the rear, I think with the rear airbags I have yet to install along with these springs flattening out a little more over time and it will be dead level.

 

[Wayne Jacobs]

I gotta say... Matt is an artist. He’s one of those guys you want on your team during the apocalypse. I admire his work.

Face it, Matt isn't going to be on your team, or mine, during that apocalypse. He'll have his own team, and we'd be fortunate to be on it!

I just finished completely devouring this thread; it's fantastic! Can't wait to get my 62 back from the shop. This has given me some ideas!

 

[cruisermatt]

Got the first airbag installed and plumbed. These are eBay bags ($60/pair) and the poly cradles are Daystar (about $50/pair). Mounting brackets were machined out of surplus aluminum stock. The cradle position is adjustable 1" forwards or rearwards from current position, no real need but I could so why not. So that plus some miscellaneous fittings and line and I have a nice upgrade for under $150. It should be noted that I am back on a starving college student budget as of this time last year.
This should clear up the last of the excessive body roll, the better front springs made a huge improvement already so these should take it up just a notch further. The alternative was to start looking at expensive shocks and sway bars.

 

[cruisermatt]

Yes, the exhaust is contacting the bag. I will correct that.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Other than getting custom springs (which are $$$) I am also looking at all the airbag setups. I wonder how good the eBay bags will be and how long they will last.

 

[cruisermatt]

We’ll see! The look literally identical to the bags in the $350 Firestone kit on my dad’s Tacoma, he has about 4-5 years on those with no issues.

 

[cruisermatt]

Just had an extra hour and got the second bag installed. I think I posted pictures of my brackets already but if not here’s more. It was a bit tricky getting both the bag and cradle in there without close my springs are to the frame but I think my solution is pretty good.

 

[Hojack]

Just had an extra hour and got the second bag installed. I think I posted pictures of my brackets already but if not here’s more. It was a bit tricky getting both the bag and cradle in there without close my springs are to the frame but I think my solution is pretty good.

View attachment 1930944
View attachment 1930945

Just keep feeding me ideas...
Thanks Matt

 

[cruisermatt]

I did this two weeks ago but forgot to post it. When I first built my cable shifter setup the 4wd cable wasn’t long enough to loop around the T-case and thus that shifter a guard the opposite direction of the others. Drove me nuts but didn’t feel like shelling out the coin for an 8’ cable. Six months ago I’m in the cool weird local surplus/hardware store and there’s a brand new 8’ push pull cable. $12. As usual I buy the parts and don’t get to install them until six months later.

The new cable had different sized threads (it uses #10 on the ends where the normal cables use 1/4”).
So I had to make a new clevis, and I made a new bracket to hold the cable to the T-case. Simple, easy and effective. Works great and all my shifters work the same direction now.

The outer thread size on the new cable is smaller then the others so for the shifter side I bored and tapped a 5/8” bolt to step the thread size up.