Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up (9 Viewers)

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Swap is looking good Matt.
One suggestion, Install one of these. $11.00
Four Seasons Heater Valves 74809

I remove the vacuum control and just manually switch it from Summer to winter. Your engine will run 12-15 degrees cooler. It keeps water flowing through the water pump when the heater is turned off.



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The lever is on the bottom in this photo

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Thanks dudes. @Saucerman the sliders are Trail Gear Tacoma sliders. I hate giving them money but for how cheap they are you can’t beat them. And I have all the equipment to build them. I do need to cut them off and re-weld them now that I have a strong MIG welder. They have taken some serious abuse.
 
@NCFJ , I did, however I made my own out of metal. I try to avoid plastic parts. I thought I posted this, looking back, I guess not.

I bought two of these 5/8” heater Tee’s, cut the ends off, welded a length of 5/8” tube between them, then welded the leftover flared ends to make a coupler I needed further up.
I found a magic 90* heater hose that is 5/8” on one side and 3/4” on the other because one of the water pump outlets is 3/4” but everything else is 5/8”.

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Got my new tach swapped into the original housing, basically just copied @orion setup. I wired into the original dash connector to have three less wires in the engine bay.
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I also got the wires from my engine harness sorted and ready to go where they need to. Just need a pair of relays for the fans, and to add two more wires for the fuel pump.
I’ll be setting up the CEL tomorrow function properly with the PCM.

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FJ62-relevant information only:
I traced out where the original fuel pump wiring ends in the schematic, at the Circuit Opening Relay in the passenger kick panel, just need to run my fuel pump power wire to here and it lets me avoid gutting the interior to run a new wire, as well as setting up new connectors at the tank. I prefer not to run wires, especially a fuel pump wire, under the truck.
If it weren’t for Toyota wiring the AFM into the fuel pump circuit you could literally not touch a single wire for the fuel pump to work independently of the 3FE. I’m sure you could trick the Circuit-opening relay
but I’d rather just cut back all the original connectors in the engine bay.

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The Walbro 255lhp. In-tank. Dropped the tank and put it in early in the swap. Need to drop the tank a few inches again to plug the harness back in.

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Well, been a hectic two weeks but as of today my truck runs under V8 power!! After a week of troubleshooting, figuring out my new Walbro pump was completely dead, pulling injectors, quadruple checking harness connections, etc, it turned out I had a bad PCM. Hooked up another PCM out of my stack ( had four or five of them) and it fired right up. Of course it only runs for a second or two because this one doesn't have VATs disabled, but now I know I'm good to go.

This weekend is wiring fans, filling fluids, bleeding brakes and clutch, finishing the exhaust, figuring out a rear driveshaft, checking every bolt on the truck, then it's off to the dyno for a tune. I'm very excited. I might have a friend with an LS powered 80 over tomorrow, I might steal his PCM and try to run my truck for a longer period on it. I'll have a video if this works.
 
Exciting when to have the motor run after all the hard work. I had trouble starting mine due the the VE pump sitting so long. Need to post a video when you have time.
 
Exciting when to have the motor run after all the hard work. I had trouble starting mine due the the VE pump sitting so long. Need to post a video when you have time.

Yup, for sure. I need to get my new computer flashed as it has a anti-theft system that doesn’t allow it to run for more then a second or two.
 
Congrats! All that work comes down to a turn of the key, puts a smile on your face for sure.
 
Congrats! All that work comes down to a turn of the key, puts a smile on your face for sure.

Absolutely did. And with the open headers I think every one on the whole block was smiling too. :D
 
I took my truck around the lake tonight and MAN is it loud when I step on the gas! Hilarious! But it sure does feel good driving her again!
 
Awesome - Glad to hear you got it figured out. Hopefully that's the last hurdle! Anyway, it woudn't be any fun if everything just worked like it's supposed to?!?!

When is the dyno session?

- Brian
 
Awesome - Glad to hear you got it figured out. Hopefully that's the last hurdle! Anyway, it woudn't be any fun if everything just worked like it's supposed to?!?!

When is the dyno session?

- Brian

No, I think it would still be pretty fun if everything just worked! :flipoff2:

Dyno will happen after it’s been running and driving for a little bit, because I’m sure there will be some little issues and kinks here and there to work out. I’ve been VERY thorough with things but that’s just the way things usually are with something like an engine swap.

Remember, I also have a completely custom suspension system, steering, and braking system that I haven’t driven on yet either.
 
I took my truck around the lake tonight and MAN is it loud when I step on the gas! Hilarious! But it sure does feel good driving her again!

Sure does. I pulled my 3FE either the last day of April or the first of May, don’t quite remember, so, four and a half months.
That’s funny, I did an LS swap, SOA, and hydroboost conversion in less time then some of my 3FE engine rebuilds (basically just bolting stuff together) have taken.
 
How are you planning on closing off the crossover tube of you coolant ''H" pipe when it's time to use the heater?

I'm not. I made the crossover tube out of 5/8" stainless tube, it doesn't close off. No need.
 
When the heater is open, the water will find the path of least resistance, so most will go still through the heater core. Even though some will short circuit, there's still plenty of flow available. Plus, the LS motors run a bit hotter, so you've got hotter water to begin with.
 

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