Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up (3 Viewers)

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Or a 5.9 cummings :)
 
Decided it wouldn't be wise to run the 3FE with open manifolds, and no O2 sensors, I don't want it to lean out so I'm going to build the exhaust before I fire it.

Ordered some 1.75" tube for the custom y-pipe I'm going to build. Stock is 1.625" so should breath a little better. Rest will be 2.5".
Everything going to held by the OE brackets. High clearance.

Bought a new muffler and straight 2.5" pipe a few months ago. Got some flanges tacked on and mocked up. One everything is in place I'm going to TIG it all at work.


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Ended up ordering all 2" for the down pipes. Hope it isn't too big.. I figure with the desmog and overbore bigger is better, but the manifolds are staying the same so I don't know.

My IAC valve's plastic housing got broken at some point in the last six months so I need one of those, damn those are expensive.

Redid my transmission mount out of 2" square tube. The rubber mount collapsed. I figure the solid mount should be fine. If I really hate it I'll just expedite building the permanent tubular crossmember. I'll upload pictures of what I did in a minute they're on my phone.
 
Well I guess this is the only picture I took. This is a 2" square tube, 1/4" wall, I drilled two 5/8" holes in it and welded it to the existing FJ62 crossmember. Kinda cheesy but I think it will work for now.

I think the 5/8" bolts going through this are going to be the largest bolts on the truck?

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Do not solid mount the transmission. Only way you can do that is to have the engine solid mounted also. If you solid mount the transmission and not the engine the torque from the engine can break your adapter or bellhousing. If read that wrong sorry.
 
12ht + nv4500 would be a GREAT combo:)
 
Do not solid mount the transmission. Only way you can do that is to have the engine solid mounted also. If you solid mount the transmission and not the engine the torque from the engine can break your adapter or bellhousing. If read that wrong sorry.

Thanks for the input. Do you think it would be ok just for putting around town? I have no intention of this being a permanent solution, I want to do something with tubes and bushings that supports the rear of the transfer case as well. This was just to get it on the road. Thoughts?
 
No problem man. Depends on you interpretation of putting if it was an auto trans I would say yes because they soak up some torque being you have a doubler and nv with granny gear I wouldn't but I have bad luck and I am hard on s***. Are you on a dead line? I would say do it right the first time doesn't look like you have cut any corners so far no reason to start now. I would take a step back and look at it again and figure out a way to mount. I used two 2wheel drive turbo 400 auto trans mounts on @SharpasMarbles 60 not sure if all the pics of the crossmember build where loaded up in his thread. They hold up to his 6.0 with a 205 granny gear 6000 rpm dumping the clutch on pavement grabbing second still burning the tires down and chirps 3rd I can't tell you how many times I did that to his truck and there is no telling how many times he has. You could solid mount it so it is in and you could fab up something with it mocked up. If you need any more pics of the crossmember I am sure @SharpasMarbles will hook it up for you not sure if the way his is built will work for you but is an idea always more than one way to skin a cat.
Tommy
 
I hear you 100%. I checked out the crossmember you built. I like it. The big issue is that the mount originally designed this around is NOT up to the task at all.

Not trying to arque with you just want it to be known I have zero intention of wheeling or driving hard with the solid trans mount. And I'm not going to be making the power he is ;). This will be a strong 3FE but not that strong.

That being said I have read stories on Pirate where guys are shattering bellhousings and shearing off adapter bolts, that does NOT sound fun at all! :eek:

This is what I've wanted to do for awhile, something like one of these, I was thinking about doing it later. I guess I'll just do it now!!!

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Sorry the lack of update, I've been too busy wrenching and more importantly DRIVING!!!

Got it running late last week and after a couple hiccups with the distributor being 180 out TWICE and then a tooth off, as well as having no clutch (pressure plate bolts were to long and gave me a false torque reading, lol), I got it running decently enough that I could drive it around. Immediately set it back to daily driving duties and have put just over 100 miles on it. Going to swap out the break-in oil and some other stuff tomorrow.

It's down on power and running SUPER rich, I'm not really worried about it though, pretty much everything in terms of engine management on this thing is super old so I'm putting new O2 sensors, new plugs, wires, fuel filter, pressure regulator on.
I remember getting an O2 sensor
code on the last motor. Also it's running on 10 gallons of old gas that I put no stabilizer in.

Going to make some separate posts that explore in more detail the features of my new setup.

For now, here's the obligatory motor and gas station pictures:

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Here's what I came up with for a crossmember after @tmxmotorsports and Pirate told be not to run with a solid transmission mount.

This is an FJ62 automatic crossmember, and I bought a RuffStuff builder bushing and some tabs (3/8" thick!!) and sunk them in.

The pedestal for the trans started as a 2x2" square tube, then I welded the bushing sleeve to that.

This give the transmission some cushion and allows it to flex around a LITTLE bit, but since there's still a bolt going through solid tabs I'm not worried about it getting killed by the low gearing.

Going down the road you can see the transmission wiggle around a little bit. Perfect.

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EXHAUST

I've been wanting to build a full exhaust for this thing forever and I was finally able to (I previously had a super old 2.5" Man-a-fre cat-back that was rusted out with cats deleted).
Although this new setup is too loud I'm really happy to not have exhaust leaks anymore and this system is super high clearance.

I up the downpipe sizes to 2" and the rest is 2.5", and because they merge so much sooner then OE more of it is 2.5".

Muffler something cheap from Summit. I want to change it, its loud.

O2 sensor bungs were from LCEngineering.

I made the 2-1 collector myself because I didn't like any of the ones for sale and couldn't afford them anyways.

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NV4500/203 DOUBLER

This setup rocks, EXCEPT for the gear split between 2nd-3rd. I suspect that will get better once I make this motor run better.
Also the 3FE should have no trouble pulling in the deep overdrive.

This trans has a MEGA grind going into 4th but that's my fault, I think the input bearing preload is way too high and 4th gear is on the input shaft. Double clutching makes the grind go away.

I don't have my triple shifters installed right now so I can only shift it by getting underneath but I played around with it in double-low. It's awesome but I think I'd still like another 50:1 or so. I know, if you give a mouse a cookie...

Not getting any real gear noise from the 203 in High-range, really happy about that. However in Low it sounds like a box of wrenches being dropped off a cliff. Apparently that's pretty normal though.

I still need to box in around the transmission shifter and find a boot. Lol.

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@NCFJ I saw your comment but I guess you deleted it? Anyways you are 100% correct, there is a "Triangle" you need to shoot for, two engine mounts outboard and a center drivetrain mount.

OEM's use this strategy almost exclusively.

I started out with a production mount but it couldn't stand the weight of the tranny/doubler and collapsed instantly. I looked for a good polyurethane mount but couldn't find anything that matched the holes in my NV4500 tailhousing (I have an early prototype tailhousing that has a different lower bolt spacing from regular tailhousings). I'm really happy with how this came out and RuffStuff sells their bushings individually, and I don't see them going anywhere any time soon, they seem to be adding new products every month.

By the way, @Dan Fredrickson you and your company ROCKS!!!!
 
Once again, I really like that exhaust Matt. Only thing I'd change is to use v-bands for the connections instead of the two bolt flanges.

Boxing in around the shifter will make the interior a lot quieter. I ran around for a while with the stock t-case shifter hole open and it was wicked loud, almost painfully loud. Just putting metal cover over that hole brought the noise down drastically.
 
Once again, I really like that exhaust Matt. Only thing I'd change is to use v-bands for the connections instead of the two bolt flanges.

Yeeah, I would have liked to I was just super broke last month. I did the whole thing for just over $100.
 
By the way, muffler is a Walker Mega-Flow 17615. I'll get a video up but it's stupid loud, like I said I don't think its the muffler's fault alone, I think that this system being so much less restrictive then OEM is the big reason.
 
Oh and I almost forgot, now that this thing runs and drives I'm allowed to install something cool I bought from @reevesci a couple months back... :cool:
 

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