Builds Camo's build thread - 2F to 2UZ (1 Viewer)

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3.75"BS w/ 110.2mm center bore
 
Love this build. If it's already been answered, I apologize but what are the seats out of and was there any fab needed?

I pulled them out of the engine donor 4runner. They don't line up at all fresh from the donor. I drilled the rivets out and removed the factory mounts from the slider rails then welded on my own brackets.

I'm really not a fan of them. This truck sees some long trips, which these seats suck for in my case. They put my leg to sleep. I'm on the look out for some replacements.
 
Perfect size for a 80 series
Yes. Dug deep to find the perfect size. I love them on my 80.
true width is just over 9 1/8 for inner bead.

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These babies are deep also.

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Yes. Dug deep to find the perfect size. I love them on my 80.
true width is just over 9 1/8 for inner bead.

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These babies are deep also.

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IMO True width looks to be 95/8” by most all standard wheel measurements.
It’s always been from where the outside side of tire bead to outside of tire bead seats on the rim.
Not sure why the makers of bead lock wheels are rewriting the book.
In any case those are nice wheels.


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IMO True width looks to be 95/8” by most all standard wheel measurements.
It’s always been from where the outside side of tire bead to outside of tire bead seats on the rim.
Not sure why the makers of bead lock wheels are rewriting the book.
In any case those are nice wheels.


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Outside to bead to outside of bead is the width right? Well with a beadlock, the bead is moved to a flange on the outside of the wheel hoop, so the measurement is then larger.

They're not rewriting "the book", it's just a difference in wheel specs that buyers need to be aware of.
 
Great Saturday morning read. If you have more time than money, I’d try to remove the rattle can camo with Easy Off Oven Cleaner or aerosolized graffiti remover…truck has some good looking patina…might find the OEM paint under there to look just right.
 
It seems to me that where the tire bead is going to seat is the important information.

These Battle born wheels that I was running were stamped 17-9 but you can see there almost 10" wide to where the tire would seat.
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You can also see that there a inner bead where the tire could be mounted at closer to 9" and not run the bead lock ring. you can see the same thing in the picture of the wheel that @bush posted.

I was told by a good friend that works for a Major auto parts retailer that this done so that the bead lock wheel can be sold with out it being stamped
FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY

IMO if the wheel specs are going to be different for bead locks then the Manufacturer/retailers need to be more transparent about it.

The Battle Born wheels were advertised, invoiced and stamped and 17-9" bead lock wheels
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I ended up selling these wheels at a loss as the 10" wide wheel were just to wide for my application.

I replaced them with Walker Evans Racing wheels 17-8.5" wheels that are true to there advertised size and have no inner bead. There also sold as OFF ROAD ONLY wheels.

Reading your tape measure I see 9.25" bead to bead, but I see your point. Consistency is important!
 
Great Saturday morning read. If you have more time than money, I’d try to remove the rattle can camo with Easy Off Oven Cleaner or aerosolized graffiti remover…truck has some good looking patina…might find the OEM paint under there to look just right.

No idea what that camo paint is made of, but it is seriously good stuff. Haven't found a solvent yet that'll soften it, much less remove it.

The body was blue originally. Then the truck was wrecked which led to a hood and fender swap to tan, and the camo paint covered the whole thing. The PO sanded the front half and lost interest. As she sits is how he left it.

I've considered tracking down the materials to make it all match, but the project has just never been worth it to me. It runs and drives and is kind of known for the odd ball paint job at this point.
 
Outside to bead to outside of bead is the width right? Well with a beadlock, the bead is moved to a flange on the outside of the wheel hoop, so the measurement is then larger.

They're not rewriting "the book", it's just a difference in wheel specs that buyers need to be aware of.
I can see the 9 5/8".

I cant say for sure that I had the ring fully seated when I took that measurement. I do think there is some fuzz on that number even if it was fully seated as the thickness of the tire at the bead should play into it. I seriously doubt that I got my rings bottomed out before I hit the torque specs. So mine may be 1/8" or more wider than that. But we are also talking very small deltas here. I referenced the inner bead measurement due to that fuzz though as it is fixed.

Can say that the bolts didn't have a chance of getting threaded when I got the tire mounted. Had to figure out how to balance my full weight on tire to get first bolt started. @Zjohnsonua had the same issues with squeezing the tire in there. Not sure if this is the usual experience.
 
Axle wrap is much better with the new front set-up, but it's still not truly under control. The rear half of the spring is doing the lion's share of the wrapping, too. Gonna pin down a pair of overload springs for chevy 63s and jam them under the front pack. The tip of those OLs will land 2" short of the pivot pin. Works great for the rear pack, so I'm curious to see how the front end responds.
 
Been a busy weekend. Got over to LKQ and pulled a set of overloads from a '99 silverado. They're 3/4" thick in the center while 2500/3500 OLs are 1", but the lengths are the same.

Got the front spring changes made; deleted the shortest leaf, reversed the next shortest, and added the overloads. Aft of the center pin is beefy. Front is more flexy. Test run to come.

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Also added some armor to the front diff. Bottom lip is ground smooth and has no edges to catch on.

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New springs work great! Axle wrap is gone. Flex isn't affected. Ride is great. Highly recommend.
 
This photo isn't quite at full flex, but the axle is under power. Pretty much exactly what I was hoping to find. Also - ran one day at 13ish psi, and the next day at 8psi...holy crap, what a grip difference. I take back my KM3 bad mouthing.

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I think this is a far better solution than an anti-wrap bar. Nice work man.
 
Been trying to work through a punch list while the lady is away for a couple weeks. Today's 3 items turned into 1 item and a few unplanned yet needed electrical fixes.

Pushed the handheld radios in favor of this little Midland MXT115 base station. Went this route after hearing @POTATO LAUNCHER come through clear as a bell from literal miles away. Needless to say he couldn't hear our response.

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Gotta track down a head unit with Bluetooth and fill that hole. Dang little JBL deal is a trooper in the meantime.
 
Been trying to work through a punch list while the lady is away for a couple weeks. Today's 3 items turned into 1 item and a few unplanned yet needed electrical fixes.

Pushed the handheld radios in favor of this little Midland MXT115 base station. Went this route after hearing @POTATO LAUNCHER come through clear as a bell from literal miles away. Needless to say he couldn't hear our response.

View attachment 2987701

Gotta track down a head unit with Bluetooth and fill that hole. Dang little JBL deal is a trooper in the meantime.
Link Please
 

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