Builds Camo's build thread - 2F to 2UZ (2 Viewers)

[Zjohnsonua]

The rear crossmember took a beating these last couple years. GSMTR tried its best to kill it, but we patched it up.

But...I've needed a trailer hitch for a long time. So the artwork got replaced. The stitched-up crossmember will live on in other projects.

Also, got the in-tank fuel pump installed. Not as quiet as I expected, but it's an imorovement.

 

[HemiAlex]

Did you swap the pedals yet?

 

[Broski]

The rear crossmember took a beating these last couple years. GSMTR tried its best to kill it, but we patched it up.

View attachment 3049949

But...I've needed a trailer hitch for a long time. So the artwork got replaced. The stitched-up crossmember will live on in other projects.

View attachment 3049947

Also, got the in-tank fuel pump installed. Not as quiet as I expected, but it's an imorovement.

Looks good Zack, nice recovery points on the out side !!

I would consider some lateral bracing to mimic the removed crossmember or something simulator to these I built into my rear bumper.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Did you swap the pedals yet?

Yup. Thanks for the update reminder.

Surely this is elsewhere in Mudverse, but here's the comparison between 60 and 62 pedals:

Direct swap in. Zero fuss.

Slippery boots involved with switching the braking foot for a power brake and nearly getting in big trouble because of the (missed) foot swap drove this change. The 60 pedal will work fine for most folks.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Ditched the 4RNR seats. They were a literal PITA.

Moved to what my experience had shown to be affordable and cheap...late '90s/early '00s Honda Accord.

Both are manual. Driver is 8 way adjustable. Fabric is even a close color match.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Last week the truck got its first set back since the oil pan incidents. I was rolling along at 75-80 and suddenly the truck started acting like it was hunting for a gear. It normally cruises at ~2500, but it was surging to ~2750 for a brief moment (<1sec) and then crisply back to ~2500. It did this every few seconds for 2 or 3 minutes at the end of my commute. I turned the AC off to make sure that the system wasn't being dumb, and the truck was still glitching. The whole thing reeked of an electrical problem. Dropping to 4th made the problem go away (this disengages the ECU's "flex lock up" logic and drives full lock up pressure to the converter). Slipped just as bad in 4th this afternoon. Noted that it started acting up just as trans temps hit 150F.

I pulled the VB and gave everything a good look. The SR solenoid was visibly cooked. The trans has over 300k on it, and I have a much younger donor 750 laying here, so I swapped the whole solenoid set. The face and tube seals between the VB and the case were also replaced while the VB was out.

Buttoned it back up, and refilled with MaxLife ATF (same stuff its been running perfectly well on for 20k+ miles). The truck is much improved (especially the seats - so comfy), but the trans had a brief fit on the way to work this morning. I'll drop this ATF, do a flush and fill with WS, and report back.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

So

The rear crossmember took a beating these last couple years. GSMTR tried its best to kill it, but we patched it up.

View attachment 3049949

But...I've needed a trailer hitch for a long time. So the artwork got replaced. The stitched-up crossmember will live on in other projects.

View attachment 3049947

Also, got the in-tank fuel pump installed. Not as quiet as I expected, but it's an imorovement.

what pump? Denso?

 

[Zjohnsonua]

So

what pump? Denso?

Walbro. It's short lived as far as I'm concerned. Denso was ~1 month out.

 

[Bripars40]

Walbro. It's short lived as far as I'm concerned. Denso was ~1 month out.

Yeah, I was hoping my denso in-tank would be silent but it’s about as loud as my last external pump.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Fixed it. Shaking my head at the fix.

Brake switch was bad.

The tip chipped off at GSMTR and left a sharpish tip. That tip eroded and left a non-op widget behind.

Pulled one out of my other 60 to get me to SAS. I'll grab a few when we visit Classic Cruisers.

In other news, the WS flush made a significant difference. Everything is smoother and more crisp. I'm a believer now.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

So the solenoid might not have been bad? That's crazy to me that the brake pedal would cause that.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

So the solenoid might not have been bad? That's crazy to me that the brake pedal would cause that.

Current driving behavior suggests that the sol'ds needed replacement anyway. It used to have a faded shift from 3 to 4, and some little annoying nuances that I just got used to. Those were gone before the flush. The flush polished it all up.

The STP circuit does a lot: unlocks the TC immediately, engages a nifty engine braking logic, breaks cruise, and affects the downshift map...to name a few functions. I didn't have it wired in when I first got the truck going and everything was abrupt and harsh. Had been a while and that research had faded from memory.

Just glad I was working on it in the dark to see the lamps and have the aha moment.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I had no idea! That's a lot of things happening at once, fortunately an easy fix.

 

[Skitz]

Fixed it. Shaking my head at the fix.

Brake switch was bad.

I've got 2 brake switches sitting on the bench...

I had to replace my switch for my swap and I raided up a few at LKQ...

 

[Zjohnsonua]

We should see what plugs are on the end of those. I'm betting the 60's pigtail is an oddball though.

 

[cruisermatt]

60 brake switch is an easy 2-pin 6.3mm connector. 80 series uses a later style 4-pin 2.8mm that’s much more annoying to deal with.
I depin them on the harness side and re-pin with an added wire for TCC on the LS swaps but a plug-in in-line harness would be very easy.

Thanks for the next product idea!

 

[Zjohnsonua]

60 brake switch is an easy 2-pin 6.3mm connector. 80 series uses a later style 4-pin 2.8mm that’s much more annoying to deal with.
I depin them on the harness side and re-pin with an added wire for TCC on the LS swaps but a plug-in in-line harness would be very easy.

Thanks for the next product idea!

Jumpers with AMP connectors to get ECUs integrated are a good idea. If you're gonna be a swap shop you need em to cut those hours down.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Ditched the electric fans and went to OE mechanical. New shroud/fan set-up requires a new hose arrangement. So, documenting for posterity:

Lower half of lower radiator hose is Gates PN 20230. Upper half is trimmed down section of 60/80/100 upper rad hose. Upper hose is same as upper half of lower.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

It got many more spot welds, some flapper wheel, and a touch of rattle can to polish things up, but here's what it ended up with:

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Zach, looks great! You may picked this up already, but is you shroud touching metal on metal with radiator? Can’t see from pics. Thought I would ask. I used some welting all around the sides facing the radiator to mitigate this.