Builds Camo's build thread - 2F to 2UZ (3 Viewers)

[Zjohnsonua]

Cut, turned, and re-perched...hit it with a little rattle can to class 'er up a bit. At least the driveline will look sharp .

Pinion landed at 12* thanks to the long transmission...gonna end up being a 32ish" driveshaft. Caster went to 5*.

Long-side gussets may happen...still thinking that one over.

ARB and 4.88s are next up for the diff.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

I worked on the front diff last night and discovered that I was using a coarse spline front before, so the flange was no good for the new 27 spline pinion. Poked around in my spares bin and found that the old OE 8" HP flange from our 80's 8" fits. Win #1. It is also about 3/4" smaller in OD which means less meat to hit on stuff like my oil pan. Win #2.

Anyone see an issue running the HP 8" flange on the rear? Bolt pattern is effectively the same - just more meat outside of the holes.

 

[Bama4door]

I worked on the front diff last night and discovered that I was using a coarse spline front before, so the flange was no good for the new 27 spline pinion. Poked around in my spares bin and found that the old OE 8" HP flange from our 80's 8" fits. Win #1. It is also about 3/4" smaller in OD which means less meat to hit on stuff like my oil pan. Win #2.

Anyone see an issue running the HP 8" flange on the rear? Bolt pattern is effectively the same - just more meat outside of the holes.

I don't see that being an issue, I'd run it. How close are you to putting the front axle back in?

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Yup, gonna run it. No idea why Toyota left all that meat out there. It even overhangs the flange that mates to it.

Gonna clean it all up and finish the reassembly Friday. @NC LX is coming by Saturday to help me reinstall it. Feel free to come up if you're keen.

 

[Bama4door]

Yup, gonna run it. No idea why Toyota left all that meat out there. It even overhangs the flange that mates to it.

Gonna clean it all up and finish the reassembly Friday. @NC LX is coming by Saturday to help me reinstall it. Feel free to come up if you're keen.

Good deal. Have you started on the rear fzj axle swap yet?

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Yup. I picked the axle up a few days ago and have been prepping it. It's down to the bare housing now.

Locker and gears are tonight and tomorrow night. Hoping to install it and the 63s this weekend.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Axle and chevy 63s are tacked in. Whoa she's tall now...too tall. 25" frame to ground...44" at the top of the rear wheel well and 43" at the front. At least the 80 axle adds stability without a need for spacers.

Figured I'd throw a few details in for the next guy:

These 63s are 5+1 packs. They're way too much spring. There's almost 5" of arch still in these and the truck is at fighting weight with a spare in the back and with a full tank of fuel.

I figure 4 or maybe even 3 leaves are all that's going to be needed plus the overloads. That plus a frenched rear shackle oughtta make things work out.

 

[cruisermatt]

yep, you got the 1-ton version. typically we run the 3/4 ton version which has one less leaf. you can also loose 3/4" of ride height easily by cutting the perches down.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Dropped to 4 leaves and cut the perches down. Much better. That brought the tail down 3". Gonna make some C-channel repairs and reinforcements then get the shackles hung.

 

[cruisermatt]

Looking good. Im having flashbacks to doing all that work in 2018 Florida summer. Never again.

 

[Bama4door]

Looks much better after removing a leaf and the perch clearance. Nice job

 

[Zjohnsonua]

With the drive to GSMTR less than 1 month away, I took a step back to write up everything that is NEEDED to be done:

Order long spline CV front shaft
Install frenched rear shackle hanger
Make and install shackle plates
Burn in rear spring hangers
Replace brake master with non-abs 80 or T100 unit
Replace soft brake lines at all four corners
Replace parking brake shoes
Make and install hard lines for rear axle
Tack in rear perches and determine if CV driveshaft will be needed - burn it all in if I'm good with a conventional. Get/make adapter and build CV rear if I'm not.
SHOCKS - this new set up is flexyyyy and soft
Lengthen transfer shifter linkage
Change out A750F shifter detent arm for A750E part
Make and install fan shroud or go to electric fan
Install and plumb ARB compressor and controls
Install chro-mo hub gears

No problem. Just a bolt here, some wire there. Easy peasy.

 

[Bama4door]

With the drive to GSMTR less than 1 month away, I took a step back to write up everything that is NEEDED to be done:

Order long spline CV front shaft
Install frenched rear shackle hanger
Make and install shackle plates
Burn in rear spring hangers
Replace brake master with non-abs 80 or T100 unit
Replace soft brake lines at all four corners
Replace parking brake shoes
Make and install hard lines for rear axle
Tack in rear perches and determine if CV driveshaft will be needed - burn it all in if I'm good with a conventional. Get/make adapter and build CV rear if I'm not.
SHOCKS - this new set up is flexyyyy and soft
Lengthen transfer shifter linkage
Change out A750F shifter detent arm for A750E part
Make and install fan shroud or go to electric fan
Install and plumb ARB compressor and controls
Install chro-mo hub gears

No problem. Just a bolt here, some wire there. Easy peasy.

Better get to work, that's a long list!

 

[bush]

Better get to work, that's a long list!

He is a machine.

 

[ArcherGX]

I was going to say, for some this is a long list. For Zach, it's a lunch break.

 

[orion]

You got this, Zach...

I just registered for GSMTR - I'll be happy to be an extra set of hands/tools for your shakedown run!

- Brian

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Folks, I'm breaking my brain on this one. I'm working on the rear driveshaft and have three options. The numbers shown below are correct for how the truck is sitting. Pitch in if you have some experience with this please, and tell me why Option C won't work if you know for certain that it won't.

The 80FF rear axle drives a 4" pinion offset which creates an unfixable 6* lateral angle which isn't shown below. It's worth keeping in mind here though.

The goal is to have the truck highway speed capable...even if it means I have to run a little slower than traffic...it's gonna see the interstate so the rear shaft needs to be up to the task:

Option A is traditional single cardan, but won't work due to the intended shaft speeds.

Option B is traditional double cardan. Could work, but due to the lateral angle...it's not ideal.

Option C is where I'm heading. The numerical result is the same as B - its effectively a stretched out option B sans one extra joint. I have the shaft for this laying on the floor.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

C will prevent gear oil from lubricating the pinion properly, causing premature (and violent) death of the pinion bearings.

A or B are your only choices here, and with B, you should be overfilling your diff somewhat to ensure proper lubrication.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

I see where you're coming from, @GLTHFJ60. I was figuring on the bath coming from the upper galley being sufficient.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Upper galley of what? It's all splash lubricated, and when the pinion bearing (in it's pocket) is pointed to the sky, no oil gets to it