Very cool work! Well done. Nice to have a whole donor truck to pull from in your driveway.
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Builds Camo's build thread - 2F to 2UZ (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Zjohnsonua
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- 2uz 37s a750f build thread hf2a
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Zjohnsonua
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- #82
Thanks. The donor really makes this easy...and lots cheaper.
SAS5?
Zjohnsonua
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- #84
Fa sho. I'm gunning to have put a few oil changes worth of miles on it by then. Got a real classy wedding to go to in Austin in April. I'd like to roll up to it in this thing...the reactions will be priceless.
If you are passing by Dallas let us know!
Zjohnsonua
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- #86
Made a few visits to our local hose shop, Johnson's Foreign Auto, and got a custom pressure hose made with OE ends. Watch out if you're using the OE PS reservoir, as the pump supply line is 16mm trans hose...odd ball stuff. Next closest is 5/8", which I only found at the Parker store and at JFA...~$8/ft if you can find it. Luckily, Parker had a 2' drop which they gave me to get it off the bench. Every little win helps!
Should have plenty of elevation on the reservoir to avoid air entrapment. I'm not real excited about that loop at the end of the paperclip, but it'll go away when I move to a finned cooler for the hydro assist.
Should have plenty of elevation on the reservoir to avoid air entrapment. I'm not real excited about that loop at the end of the paperclip, but it'll go away when I move to a finned cooler for the hydro assist.
Nothing like have Johnson’s in your engine bay 
Zjohnsonua
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- #88
Radiator is in. The factory UZ upper hose works well. The lower works for now, but it'll need re-routing farther outboard of the rad before a shroud can be made. Gonna stick with the factory radiator and mechanical fan until I see the temps creep too high.
4rnr's UZ implementation gets the same dual water temperature senders as many other implementations, except it only uses one - handy. The spare one is scaled closely to the 2F's so the 60 gauge is plug n play.
Driveshafts, exhaust, and transmission level checks. Getting closer.
4rnr's UZ implementation gets the same dual water temperature senders as many other implementations, except it only uses one - handy. The spare one is scaled closely to the 2F's so the 60 gauge is plug n play.
Driveshafts, exhaust, and transmission level checks. Getting closer.
Zjohnsonua
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- #89
Gotta shuffle some cars around to get out of the shop, but she's ready to party! Can't wait to get around the block a few times. Exhaust will come later. Sorry, neighbors.
For future reference...parking brake does NOT hold the truck in place while in gear in 4lo.
For future reference...parking brake does NOT hold the truck in place while in gear in 4lo.
Nice work, Zach...this truck is turning out awesome.
- Brian
- Brian
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Killing it!
Here's a few more action pics from Zachs work...
Here we mated the engine, junk yard 100 tranny and TC. You can see he's wearing his brand new work pants... the boy didn't change clothes when he got home from work, he just started wrenching.. lol
Using the blue wrench on the parts truck
First time about drop it in... I think Zach was saying a small prayer to the car gods...
Zach burning it down...
Here we mated the engine, junk yard 100 tranny and TC. You can see he's wearing his brand new work pants... the boy didn't change clothes when he got home from work, he just started wrenching.. lol
Using the blue wrench on the parts truck
First time about drop it in... I think Zach was saying a small prayer to the car gods...
Zach burning it down...
Zjohnsonua
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- #93
Thanks for the add, George! The added perspective is great.
Bear with the length on this one:
Jess and I took advantage of some good weather and got some cleaning up done - which led to the end of shop dry runs, and the first go-round on pavement for Camo. End result: the current suspension can't handle the torque. The truck squats firmly when dropping into gear, and really sets back when I hit the gas. Power is there, and the truck shifted as far 4th before I had to get off the gas. No dramas. I video'd, but it's garbage. Another time. I can limp around on the rear driveshaft , but it needs balancing. CDL circuit lock and unlocks on command - that's a win. Kurt is sending a spool to enable part-time again, so that'll fix the CDL need. The exhaust...dear Lord...something is needed, HA! I'll get pieces parts ordered. I had hoped to keep the OE manifolds with integrated cats, but the passenger side cat outlet drives a crash with the front output shaft. Gonna order in some Tundra manifolds, flanges, and piping to get this girl breathing. That'll let me get over 30% throttle (max thus far - all I could handle without earplugs).
I watched the OBD readout during the drive, and noted that the truck has a little hitch when shifting from 2 to 1. Shortly after that hitch I registered a P0504 code - brake pedal switch open circuit. It's not wired in yet. I only mention it because of the little weirdness it threw at me...make sure you tie that in. Only other code is for the evap pressure sensor that I cut out. I'll tangle with that one day. I'm over the moon that I'm not seeing codes for missing ABS/VSC systems.
Bear with the length on this one:
Jess and I took advantage of some good weather and got some cleaning up done - which led to the end of shop dry runs, and the first go-round on pavement for Camo. End result: the current suspension can't handle the torque. The truck squats firmly when dropping into gear, and really sets back when I hit the gas. Power is there, and the truck shifted as far 4th before I had to get off the gas. No dramas. I video'd, but it's garbage. Another time. I can limp around on the rear driveshaft , but it needs balancing. CDL circuit lock and unlocks on command - that's a win. Kurt is sending a spool to enable part-time again, so that'll fix the CDL need. The exhaust...dear Lord...something is needed, HA! I'll get pieces parts ordered. I had hoped to keep the OE manifolds with integrated cats, but the passenger side cat outlet drives a crash with the front output shaft. Gonna order in some Tundra manifolds, flanges, and piping to get this girl breathing. That'll let me get over 30% throttle (max thus far - all I could handle without earplugs).
I watched the OBD readout during the drive, and noted that the truck has a little hitch when shifting from 2 to 1. Shortly after that hitch I registered a P0504 code - brake pedal switch open circuit. It's not wired in yet. I only mention it because of the little weirdness it threw at me...make sure you tie that in. Only other code is for the evap pressure sensor that I cut out. I'll tangle with that one day. I'm over the moon that I'm not seeing codes for missing ABS/VSC systems.
Zjohnsonua
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- Thread starter
- #94
Lighter week for progress, but a little happened:
Got the transfer's spool installed, so it's back to a part time rig
.
Also got the manifolds in. For future swappers - 1st gen tundra/sequoia manifolds are what you're hunting as they run a small pattern 3 hole flange.The driver side is a direct bolt up with plenty of clearance everywhere I had to move the engine higher for reasons later described, and that higher position requires 1" be cut out of the straight section after the last runner. Passenger side will require a cut and clock as the flange may crash into the firewall depending on where you placed the engine. I shortened it 3/4" and rotated the flange a few degrees. You'll need the y-pipe from the same gen truck to weld the rest of your exhaust to. I'm impatient and couldn't be bothered to go to the yard so I made a set from a drop of 1/2" plate.
Lockers, longfields, the FF rear, and 37" meats are on deck!
Got the transfer's spool installed, so it's back to a part time rig
.Also got the manifolds in. For future swappers - 1st gen tundra/sequoia manifolds are what you're hunting as they run a small pattern 3 hole flange.
Lockers, longfields, the FF rear, and 37" meats are on deck!
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Zjohnsonua
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- #95
Had a little interruption, but I'm back on Camo. Put together an exhaust for it to get on the road a bit. That Flowmaster must be gutted...it's only marginally better than straight pipes, so it'll have to go.
But, I stretched its legs on the interstate and man, oh man, does she move! It's at 60mph before a 2F would be shifting into 3rd. Pulls our local mtn (hill for those with actual mtns) in 5th with no problem.
My homebrew driveshaft isn't as sketchy as I thought either. Has a little harmonic around 30 but smooths right out at speed. It might actually balance out
.
Next is tire mounting, so that I can see where the axles need to move to.
But, I stretched its legs on the interstate and man, oh man, does she move! It's at 60mph before a 2F would be shifting into 3rd. Pulls our local mtn (hill for those with actual mtns) in 5th with no problem.
My homebrew driveshaft isn't as sketchy as I thought either. Has a little harmonic around 30 but smooths right out at speed. It might actually balance out
.Next is tire mounting, so that I can see where the axles need to move to.
Zjohnsonua
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- #96
Big day. Got the new shoes on, found the source of a potentially serious electrical gremlin (I think), and worked out how I'm gonna make the immobilizer work long term.
Been itching to get these on!
Having the tires fill the wells tells a lot.The rear has a good height. The front needs to come down a wee bit.
The potentially serious issue was that the throttle had dropped out on me twice. This last time was in evening commute traffic on a bridge...no bueno. I also had intermittent function on my OBDII reader. Fishing around in my bundle of junction connectors showed that bumping this huge junction block could awaken the OBDII port. That also carries a ton of signals back to the ECU - including the pedal. I managed to get another 4 turns or so on that bolt...way too loose.
The immobilizer chip has a super short response range:
Kinda bummed it has to be so close, but there's enough air gap to allow for a clever solution. No valet switch needed for this rig.
Until next time...
Been itching to get these on!
Having the tires fill the wells tells a lot.The rear has a good height. The front needs to come down a wee bit.
The potentially serious issue was that the throttle had dropped out on me twice. This last time was in evening commute traffic on a bridge...no bueno. I also had intermittent function on my OBDII reader. Fishing around in my bundle of junction connectors showed that bumping this huge junction block could awaken the OBDII port. That also carries a ton of signals back to the ECU - including the pedal. I managed to get another 4 turns or so on that bolt...way too loose.
The immobilizer chip has a super short response range:
Kinda bummed it has to be so close, but there's enough air gap to allow for a clever solution. No valet switch needed for this rig.
Until next time...
Love the Cammo look. You gotta post some pics at your upcoming wedding in Austin. I am sure you will find out who is a legit friend vs a kardashian
Zjohnsonua
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- #98
Mannnnn, I wish it could stay. Let it suffice to say that I'll get much, much more enjoyment out of the truck if it goes to a single color.
Edit - Summer '22 - No paint will happen. The truck is too well known now. Can't change a tiger's stripes.
Edit - Summer '22 - No paint will happen. The truck is too well known now. Can't change a tiger's stripes.
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i love that are doing all of this to THAT 60. 
I'd support a paint job but only if you rattle bomb it in three hours
I'd support a paint job but only if you rattle bomb it in three hours
Zjohnsonua
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- #100
Definitely gonna be a rattle can job. Probably gonna be a case of Aervoe mis-tint lol. All the money is going into the parts that matter. I couldn't care less about the aesthetics. Goal is to be the offroad version of that beat up Nova at the track that anyone that knows better knows not to bet against.
