Build Body work - fixing my '79 floors and other stuff
- Thread starter MOTOV8R
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- Thread starter
- #102
So my daughter was born in April so less garage time but I have gotten some stuff done.
Reinforced the passenger rocker and drilled and tubed it for the 4+ slider/running boards.
Patched a rust spot by the gas filler.
Removed supports in the fender wells and cut the rust out. Used the plasma cutter this time. Also cut the patches with the plasma. Cuts are not as clean or accurate but faster and no metal dust everywhere.
Got the patches tracked in today
Reinforced the passenger rocker and drilled and tubed it for the 4+ slider/running boards.
Patched a rust spot by the gas filler.
Removed supports in the fender wells and cut the rust out. Used the plasma cutter this time. Also cut the patches with the plasma. Cuts are not as clean or accurate but faster and no metal dust everywhere.
Got the patches tracked in today
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2012
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Your rear wheel opening looks really good. If u ever wanted u could put lifted fj60 springs in the back and retain the same axle position if u welded on adjustable perches. A longer spring is more likely to enhance the ride and suspension travel.
What happened to the bottom of your rockers and fender?
- Thread starter
- #107
I might try that at some point. Can't wait until I can tackle other projects besides body work. It's rewarding to have solid steel again but tedious, time consuming, work.
PO have to be the most ignorant group of people walking this planet. 
PO have to be the most ignorant group of people walking this planet.
who is this guy named PO....he f@*$s up everything....??
Make sure your welder is set correctly. Flux core and MIG using gas have reversed poles in my Home Depot model wire welder. And yup, I didnt change mine when I swapped flux core to gas.
I'm 'that guy' sometimes referred to as 'PO'...
Any updates Ken? You out driving it now?
Wow! Looking at your thread brings back lots of memories...not all of them good! But now that the work is done, the pain subsides and you forget how long
it took to get it completed! Will have to bring mine over to your place some day and compare notes. Obviously not in the dead of winter
But tis' lookin really good! Keep at it..
Cheers!
it took to get it completed! Will have to bring mine over to your place some day and compare notes. Obviously not in the dead of winter
But tis' lookin really good! Keep at it..
Cheers!
- Thread starter
- #113
Not a lot of updates. Finished welding and grinding the inner fender wells but haven't started on the outers yet. I didn't take any pics. I need to get back after it. I did pick up some 1" roloc grinding disks that work great for tight areas.
This is great, please post as many photos of the rear sill replacement. I will be doing the same and need as much help as possible.
Love this thread, just read the whole thing.
Great work, I have a lot of the same to do on my Bat Cruiser build thread. And you have convinced me that I can learn to do the metal work myself. Thanks for the motivation.
Frank
Great work, I have a lot of the same to do on my Bat Cruiser build thread. And you have convinced me that I can learn to do the metal work myself. Thanks for the motivation.
Frank
Thanks for giving me hope that I can do my own panel replacements! lol Seriously, your 40 is looking good.
- Thread starter
- #117
Little bit of work done today. In the pic with the three circled holes, are these factory for the 4 wheel drive emblom? They were covered up by steel plate before.
Edit: I did a little searching, I think the three holes are for the Toyota emblom.
Edit: I did a little searching, I think the three holes are for the Toyota emblom.
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Seeing all of the body work makes me want to get a better wire welder to finally fix mine correctly. Nice work!
Your work looks great, love the new wheel base and the moved guards on the rear. Could you tell me the rust treatment procedure your using as i will be doing mine soon.
Sorry if you have already mentioned it and i missed it.
Matt
Sorry if you have already mentioned it and i missed it.
Matt
- Thread starter
- #120
When I need to convert rust I use a phosphoric acid. The one I use is $15/gal and available at home Depot. I put it in a spray bottle and apply it several times and scrub it with a wire brush in between. I always use gloves and safety goggles, it can irritate your skin.
Klean-Strip 1 gal. Phosphoric Prep and Etch-GKPA30220 - The Home Depot