Builds Body work - fixing my '79 floors and other stuff (1 Viewer)

[MOTOV8R]

Props to you for sticking with the White. I like the grey bezel that should help with keeping the classic lines distinguished.

My favorite 40 colors are the pumpkin orange and the olive brown. My soft top is olive drab which should look good with white and I am just way too lazy to do a color change. The dash alone is enough to deter me from that.

I am only doing this much repainting on the front because it seemed like I should while I had the fenders off.

 

[MOTOV8R]

Bib reunited.

Next up, put on these stainless hood latches that I painted pewter.

 

[MOTOV8R]

I sold my factory roll bar a while back because I wanted something more substantial running just the soft top. In the process of fitting the full cage I realized that the non-US late model wing windows I want to run won’t open very far with the front cage. I am considering just running a rear cage. It will also be tied into the frame at the b and c pillars. I do plan to take this 40 offroad but nothing too crazy. Thoughts?

This is what the full cage looks like

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I don't see any wing windows on your front doors...do you have different doors?

 

[MOTOV8R]

I don't see any wing windows on your front doors...do you have different doors?

I have all the parts to add the wing windows to these doors. The doors shells aren't different.

 

[archie73]

I am considering just running a rear cage. It will also be tied into the frame at the b and c pillars. I do plan to take this 40 offroad but nothing too crazy. Thoughts?

Just my opinion, but just a cage in the rear only is no real protection. I agree offroad is an excellent reason for a cage instead of just a rollbar. The Flipside of that is your windshield frame is little to no protection in case of a roll over. The strength of the windshield is nothing compared to that of the vehicle. Worse case scenario it folds into your lap. I see this perspective as more influential in terms of around town driving than offroad.

Here’s another way of looking at it:

• 25% of the time you’ll have rear passengers
• 50% of the time you’ll have a front passenger
• 100% of the time you’ll have a person sitting in the drivers seat.

It’s not to say that the driver is more important than the passengers, but it just more likely they will need more protection than the windshield will provide.

***Full Disclosure*** I completely understand these are far from safe vehicles. I don’t believe you can make it as safe as the tin cans put out today. I’ll step off my soap box now.

 

[Buffchief]

I sold my factory roll bar a while back because I wanted something more substantial running just the soft top. In the process of fitting the full cage I realized that the non-US late model wing windows I want to run won’t open very far with the front cage. I am considering just running a rear cage. It will also be tied into the frame at the b and c pillars. I do plan to take this 40 offroad but nothing too crazy. Thoughts?

View attachment 3650947

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This is what the full cage looks like

View attachment 3650950

where did you get that back seat? I need to mount one for my grandson and his seat

 

[MOTOV8R]

where did you get that back seat? I need to mount one for my grandson and his seat

It’s a besttop TJ rear seat. You can buy them a lot of places. They come with mounting hardware. It’s not too hard to make the hardware work. If you want a little easier mounting you can buy the cool cruisers version with specific hardware for your 40, but at a price.

Bestop Jeep Wrangler Trailmax II Fold & Tumble Rear Bench Seat in Vinyl - Charcoal/Gray 39435-09 (97-06 Jeep Wrangler TJ)

FREE SHIPPING! Maximum Comfort and Durability. The Bestop Trailmax II Fold Tumble Rear Bench Seat in Vinyl (Charcoal/Gray) will provide you with maximum comfor

www.extremeterrain.com

Seat - Bench Kit - Rear - FJ/BJ40 or SUV

Seat - Bench Kit - Rear - FJ/BJ40 or SUV - This is a CCOT Exclusive Kit. CCOT has taken the Bestop TrailMax™ II Fold & Tumble Rear Bench Seat and designed a custom FJ40 / BJ40 seat mounting and seat belt system that will safely transport rear passengers in comfort and style. The Fold & Tumble...

www.coolcruisers.com

 

[MOTOV8R]

Just my opinion, but just a cage in the rear only is no real protection. I agree offroad is an excellent reason for a cage instead of just a rollbar. The Flipside of that is your windshield frame is little to no protection in case of a roll over. The strength of the windshield is nothing compared to that of the vehicle. Worse case scenario it folds into your lap. I see this perspective as more influential in terms of around town driving than offroad.

Here’s another way of looking at it:

• 25% of the time you’ll have rear passengers
• 50% of the time you’ll have a front passenger
• 100% of the time you’ll have a person sitting in the drivers seat.

It’s not to say that the driver is more important than the passengers, but it just more likely they will need more protection than the windshield will provide.

***Full Disclosure*** I completely understand these are far from safe vehicles. I don’t believe you can make it as safe as the tin cans put out today. I’ll step off my soap box now.

I appreciate your thoughtful reply. I think given the stock softop had no roll bar, the roll bar I am building is more stout than the roll bar that came in it, the low number of miles I drive it, the low number of accidents that are rollovers, and the number and the quality of the years I have spent on the planet I will go ahead with just the rear cage.

Also, are you in the treasure valley? maybe I will see you around at a meet up some time if so.

 

[archie73]

I appreciate your thoughtful reply. I think given the stock softop had no roll bar, the roll bar I am building is more stout than the roll bar that came in it, the low number of miles I drive it, the low number of accidents that are rollovers, and the number and the quality of the years I have spent on the planet I will go ahead with just the rear cage.

Also, are you in the treasure valley? maybe I will see you around at a meet up some time if so.

I understand, that was just my opinion. I also have a son. He’ll be driving soon so that definitely colors my look at it. I’m actually in Teton Valley not treasure valley.

 

[MOTOV8R]

Decided to actually check the clearance required for the wing windows (and make a believer out of Dan that I actually have wing windows). Dug out the parts and tore down the door to slide the wing window in. Turns out those angles on the dash are pretty much made for clearing the wing window. No room left for a front roll cage.

 

[MOTOV8R]

Didn’t get a lot done this summer but with kids back in school I am finding some time during the day to work on the roll cage. I started with some feet for the cage. I added some 3/16” strips on the front feet to clear the rib on the wheel well. I fitted up a metal tech frame tie in underneath (my cage is not metal tech but the kit still works). I am using some 1/4” EPDM rubber as a body mount between body and the frame tie in main plate. I have the scab plates tacked in and everything painted. Next step will be to bolt it up to the roll cage feet and burn it in. After that I will start building the actual cage.

The frame tie in kit comes with the tubes left very long. I had to do a lot of cutting and trimming to get the angles right. Doing the cage will be my first experience notching tube. I got the HF notcher, what could go wrong, lol!

 

[acjb]

Excellent thread. I just spent the last 2 hours reading though it. I have a 79 that has been in pieces for 15 years and I now have some time to work on it. Your thread will be super helpful, so thanks for taking the time to post all of the pictures. I do have a question about the painting you have done. Did you use a gun and did you do all the paint in the area where the parts were hanging. If so, great job keeping the dust and nibs down. I would have had paint all over everything. I really enjoyed reading through the thread.

 

[MOTOV8R]

Excellent thread. I just spent the last 2 hours reading though it. I have a 79 that has been in pieces for 15 years and I now have some time to work on it. Your thread will be super helpful, so thanks for taking the time to post all of the pictures. I do have a question about the painting you have done. Did you use a gun and did you do all the paint in the area where the parts were hanging. If so, great job keeping the dust and nibs down. I would have had paint all over everything. I really enjoyed reading through the thread.

Thanks, appreciate your kind words.
As for the paint, it’s just rustoleum spray can primer and paint. Someday I may go back and do something better. I try to paint on low wind days. I hang parts from a tree. I move them inside after a few minutes to reduce the chance of bugs and junk getting in the paint. But there’s still some gnats in there. My main goal is rust removal and getting paint on it to prevent future rust.

 

[B y r o n]

Didn’t get a lot done this summer but with kids back in school I am finding some time during the day to work on the roll cage. I started with some feet for the cage. I added some 3/16” strips on the front feet to clear the rib on the wheel well. I fitted up a metal tech frame tie in underneath (my cage is not metal tech but the kit still works). I am using some 1/4” EPDM rubber as a body mount between body and the frame tie in main plate. I have the scab plates tacked in and everything painted. Next step will be to bolt it up to the roll cage feet and burn it in. After that I will start building the actual cage.

The frame tie in kit comes with the tubes left very long. I had to do a lot of cutting and trimming to get the angles right. Doing the cage will be my first experience notching tube. I got the HF notcher, what could go wrong, lol!

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View attachment 3745792

With regard to your shackle orientation, you need to change the way you have them mounted.

The end attached to the frame needs to be attached to the spring and the spring bolt needs to be attached to the frame. This will move the smaller bolt, third bolt, closer to the frame to prevent spring inversion.

 

[MOTOV8R]

With regard to your shackle orientation, you need to change the way you have them mounted.

View attachment 3748405

The end attached to the frame needs to be attached to the spring and the spring bolt needs to be attached to the frame. This will move the smaller bolt, third bolt, closer to the frame to prevent spring inversion.

Thanks. I actually had them that way and it was limiting spring droop a fair amount so I flipped them. If I have a problem with them getting inverted I will flip them back.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

... I hang parts from a tree. I move them inside after a few minutes to reduce the chance of bugs and junk getting in the paint...

Does this mean you're a 'shade tree painter' ?

 

[MOTOV8R]

Does this mean you're a 'shade tree painter' ?

Yeah guilty as charged, I am also a garden grinder, I don’t like all the dust in the garage and it leaves rust streaks on the driveway.

 

[B y r o n]

Thanks. I actually had them that way and it was limiting spring droop a fair amount so I flipped them. If I have a problem with them getting inverted I will flip them back.

Can you explain or post pictures of how they limited droop?

 

[MOTOV8R]

Can you explain or post pictures of how they limited droop?

The inversion bolt hit the frame and limited droop, when I flipped it around it could droop further because the shackle could swing back further. I only tested it on the front. Looking at it, I don’t think the back has the same problem. I have a different issue in the back. The shackle rubs on the shackle mount gusset. I need to clearance the shackle or the gusset. For the short term I flipped it. The gusset was an aftermarket piece and it’s thicker than stock.