Builds Body work - fixing my '79 floors and other stuff (5 Viewers)

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Pic of the relay mount, it uses a couple existing holes for the fender apron brace. The ARB compressor uses the coil mount (modified a bit). The relays are PIAA fogs, L/R headlight for the factory headlight upgrade kit, and ARB compressor.

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What is the plastic U shaped thing for?
I found one in the 62 and don’t know its purpose.
This black u-shaped thing is rubberized metal and it is for installing the wheel center caps. There is also a small u-shaped plastic "clip" that holds the wrenches/spanners together too. It's not shown in this pic.
 
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What is the plastic U shaped thing for?
I found one in the 62 and don’t know its purpose.
Here’s a pic. My wheels are the later wheels with these center caps. This tool kit came from an 82 FJ60 I parted out. The jack as well. The wrenches, pliers, and screw driver were all recent additions.

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Here’s a pic. My wheels are the later wheels with these center caps. This tool kit came from an 82 FJ60 I parted out. The jack as well. The wrenches, pliers, and screw driver were all recent additions.

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The 62 has its original tool roll and all of its tools and jack. Unfortunately it has some aftermarket wheels but has the hub ornament installation tool still.

I love learning things.
Thanks
 
So, this happened today.



I have a leak on one of the compression fittings I used at the tank. I tried to tighten it but it only got worse. Have parts coming to get it fixed up. I did run it enough to set the timing and the idle. Pretty happy considering I replaced the entire fuel system, starter, vapor canister (added), and distributor (dui) since the last time it ran.
 
So, this happened today.



I have a leak on one of the compression fittings I used at the tank. I tried to tighten it but it only got worse. Have parts coming to get it fixed up. I did run it enough to set the timing and the idle. Pretty happy considering I replaced the entire fuel system, starter, vapor canister (added), and distributor (dui) since the last time it ran.

So smooth!
 
Well, no updates in a while but I have been plodding away.

Driver fender sanded down, primed and painted.

Driver apron sanded but it got too cold to paint

Some work started on bib repairs, but still more to do

Swapped out my MAF 4” springs for some OME 2” springs and shorter shackles.

Pulled the transmission. It was leaking at the rear bearing cover plate. I forgot to seal it. It had a paper gasket but still leaked bad with no sauce. Also the transfer case wasn’t properly shimmed for preload on the output (I didn’t have the shims at the time). All back together now. That was rough as a one person job. My harbor freight tranny jack did the trick. Also using some spare long tcase mounting bolts as guides helped a ton. I screwed 2 of them in about 1” and then the tranny slid right in.

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Well, no updates in a while but I have been plodding away.

Driver fender sanded down, primed and painted.

Driver apron sanded but it got too cold to paint

Some work started on bib repairs, but still more to do

Swapped out my MAF 4” springs for some OME 2” springs and shorter shackles.

Pulled the transmission. It was leaking at the rear bearing cover plate. I forgot to seal it. It had a paper gasket but still leaked bad with no sauce. Also the transfer case wasn’t properly shimmed for preload on the output (I didn’t have the shims at the time). All back together now. That was rough as a one person job. My harbor freight tranny jack did the trick. Also using some spare long tcase mounting bolts as guides helped a ton. I screwed 2 of them in about 1” and then the tranny slid right in.

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Looking good.

Tough deal on the tranny/t case.
Mine is sopping wet down there and I’m terrified of the repercussions.
 
Motor mounts, BUY OEM
I tried putting in the motor mounts but they don’t use the stock hardware. I happen to have some bolts that fit but these are pretty cheaply made. The mounts stripped out when I was tightening them and I wasn’t applying that much torque. Also they don’t have the locating nub on the top. I aborted and ordered some from CityRacer. From the pics his have the locating nub, but seem to be a thinner material than the stock ones. I probably should have gotten OEM from the get go.

Below are the ones I got initially, CityRacer’s should be here in a couple days.

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The new motor mounts should get here Monday so today I put the teansfercase shift linkage back in and reinstalled my parking brake. This time with some sealant on the splines. It leaked last time (no sealant on the splines), but was good at the seal. Pleasant surprise when I pulled the seal on the parking brake it had been modified for 2 seals. Quick trip to the parts store and I was double sealed again. Also filled up the gearboxes with oil. Not a lot of pics but here’s the parking brake.

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Got the apron painted today, finally a little warmer out. Swapped in an OME steering stabilizer that I got a while back for like $10 bucks from a local guy. Checked my caster after the OME springs, wtf, it’s like -3 degrees. Time for some shims.

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Got the apron painted today, finally a little warmer out. Swapped in an OME steering stabilizer that I got a while back for like $10 bucks from a local guy. Checked my caster after the OME springs, wtf, it’s like +3 degrees. Time for some shims.

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plus 3* or minus 3*?
I thought with a lift it would pull you into the minus territory?
 
-3, that always confuses me. It’s whatever the bad caster is. The knuckle pivot axis leans forward, not backward like it should.
4’s should get you to positive 1 then?
Pretty much where you want to be?

I’ve got an extra set of 4’s from the place you’d buy them anyway. Never installed. Hit me ?
 

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