Builds Body work - fixing my '79 floors and other stuff (1 Viewer)

[White Stripe]

Everything is bolted. I had to notch the frame Rails a tad to make clearance for the bolt heads of the hangers. I probably will weld the hangers too

I checked out your rear frame work. I decided I will pull the cross member. Did you just bolt the gusset plate and spring hangers on or weld them as well (similar to how they are originally)?

eventually once I settle on a shackle angle. But as is I've wheeled it fairly hard and it's OK.

 

[MOTOV8R]

I got about 1 hr garage time this weekend. Did manage to remove the cross member in that time though. Air chisel is a wondrous tool. Not too bad underneath but will be glad to get some paint between these pieces.

 

[MOTOV8R]

Very slow progress. Finished up the frame work diversion and moved back to the rear floor.

Moving all the captive nuts and hangers from the old floor to the new.

 

[MOTOV8R]

More slow progress, but a huge milestone, the floor is in. Have to patch those holes in the rear corners and tie in the quarter panels to the rear sill.

 

[middlecalf]

Going back through this thread since I’m in the middle of replacing non-metal with metal. Nice work, I know how difficult this is doing this insitu (my 45 cab is off the frame and it’s still hard to do). Are you connecting tack welds together on those panel replacements, or using a continuous bead between tacks? I’m struggling with patience on the tack weld connections, lol. I know the heat buildup is an issue, but my tacked together welds just look like crap. I need to go to gas but I’m doing this outside (or shop door open) so fluxcore is what I’m using so far. How are you able to bridge some of those gaps without burn through, they look pretty big? I’m in Sweet (Brownlee) BTW

 

[MOTOV8R]

Going back through this thread since I’m in the middle of replacing non-metal with metal. Nice work, I know how difficult this is doing this insitu (my 45 cab is off the frame and it’s still hard to do). Are you connecting tack welds together on those panel replacements, or using a continuous bead between tacks? I’m struggling with patience on the tack weld connections, lol. I know the heat buildup is an issue, but my tacked together welds just look like crap. I need to go to gas but I’m doing this outside (or shop door open) so fluxcore is what I’m using so far. How are you able to bridge some of those gaps without burn through, they look pretty big? I’m in Sweet (Brownlee) BTW

I mostly use gas and connect tack welds together, even then it tends to shrink a lot. I do sometimes get impatient and run a bead or do tacks one after the other. Regardless there's always a lot of grinding. I have been using some 36 grit flap disks the make pretty quick work of it though. When I did the rear floor it was mostly rosette welds and I used flux core because some areas weren't bare metal. It worked pretty well. I've found that trying to work the area back into shape with a dolly and hammer can help with some of the seams that shrink. My experience is that you will never get it perfect you have to accept good enough.

 

[MOTOV8R]

I was able to get about 3 hours in the garage on Saturday and Sunday. The tire carrier is mounted and the driver's side is patched up. I still have some more welding to do and grinding.

 

[MOTOV8R]

Finished the other side. Removed the brace I had put in place when I started working on the rear floor. Everything stayed pretty square when I checked the tub measurements. Still need to finish welding everything up and do some grinding.

 

[White Stripe]

Impressive progress. Almost their!

 

[MOTOV8R]

Fitting the tailgate. The tailgate is actually separated so I can fix some rust and redo the captive nuts inside. I sold the hard top when I lived in Utah and plan to only run a soft top. Think nutzerts will be enough in the cross member for the hinges?

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Nutzerts should be fine. I've got a few, if you need some, I bought an assortment off Amazon when I put the snorkel on the 75. I also have access to (Tasche) a sweet pneumatic driver.

 

[MOTOV8R]

Nutzerts should be fine. I've got a few, if you need some, I bought an assortment off Amazon when I put the snorkel on the 75. I also have access to (Tasche) a sweet pneumatic driver.

I wilI probably hit you up. I don't think I have enough. I have a handful in different sizes that came with a nutzert setting tool I got for Christmas last year (I may have offered some guidance with the present selection).

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

If I don't have enough of the right size, Industrial Hardware in Garden City has them. I just bought some to plug the roof rack and rear 'spoiler' holes on the 80, plus stainless hardware and it was about $5.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

In my garage, if you need them.

 

[MOTOV8R]

Started mounting the tailgate. I assume on early 40s and swb 45s there is a captive plate for the lower part of the hinge that allows for some adjustment. I don't have an older 40 for reference but the tailgate side of the hinge didn't have any ability for adjusting just captive nuts and holes were not oversize. The latches have plates and oversize holes. Because it would be difficult to add adjustment plates in the rear sill and because I have the tailgate split I made some threaded plates for the upper hinge mounts (tailgate side). Next I drilled the sill and added rivnuts.

Thanks to Dan for giving me a bunch of rivnuts.

 

[MOTOV8R]

Forgot to mention since I am flush mounting the tailgate due to the larger opening on later 40s I had to work on the hinges so when the are open they lay flat. Flush mounting also makes the tailgate sit a little higher but my soft top will use the footman loops so it shouldn't matter.

 

[White Stripe]

If you have the tailgate split why not just cut off 1/4" or so from the top to make it flush with the tub?

 

[MOTOV8R]

If you have the tailgate split why not just cut off 1/4" or so from the top to make it flush with the tub?

A couple reasons. The border/flat sections are symmetrical top and bottom if I trimmed it would be fatter on the bottom, narrower on top. Also the back part angles in at about 1/4" down so it would make welding it back together difficult and it would be hard to get a nice straight line since the top edge would be made by the weld.

 

[MOTOV8R]

Finally getting back to this. Lots of work prepping the tailgate to go back together. Created threaded nut plates and captured them with sheet metal retainers similar to the factory. They keep the plates from getting lost in the tailgate but still allow movement for positioning. Then welded up all the extra holes in the tailgate and cleaned up all the rust. Then primered it and got it ready to be welded. Clamped it up and ran out of weekend.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Is that a hinged drop down tail gate for a soft top?