Builds Olive the 71 FJ40 build (1 Viewer)

[frankenyota]

Here are some pictures when we first bought it home a few years back.
F155 and 3 speed gearbox, the body is very tidy for rust and had replacement fibreglass guards, half doors and bonnet but also came with the originals including full doors.
Has brand new 33x12.5x15 mud tyres and front and rear diff locks. Springs look new with superior extended shackles.
Front diff has a TJM locker and rear is ARB, the rear diff pinion bearing is flogged out so will need a rebuild.
My wife nick named the 40 Olive.
Hopefully starting a build thread can motivate me to finish her off as i bought it a few years back and the boys are now in high school.
Some pictures of my boys checking out the new rig.

 

[frankenyota]

The Plan is to upgrade the 3 speed to a H55 5 speed, replace the rear diff from a semi float to full float rear from a 60 series, upgrade the bikes to front disc, 60 series power steering.
So picked up a cheap rusty 60 series with 2F and 5 speed for $300, great deal.
So started with fitting the rear diff housing, while doing this i decided to fit the rear springs from the 60 to give it some more wheel base.

 

[Tancruiser]

Love it looks like the kids do to.

 

[frankenyota]

The boys have grown up a bit now thats why i keen to get this done. Currently setting up the front suspension with 60 series rear springs.
Replaced the fixed mounts with later model hangers. Here are some pictures of the new hanger mounted about 1" back from factory with the 60 springs set up, front wheel pushed 2" forward, shackle angle is 40 degrees with the weight of my winch sitting up front. Hopefully this will give me a good ride with the stretched wheel base.
Not sure if this angle is too much?

 

[frankenyota]

A few pictures of the 5 speed install. Out with the old 3 speed and in with the new to me H55 5 speed.
Grafted the top cover from the 60 series to fit the 40 series cover and run the shifter boots from the 60.
Also used the 60 series gearbox crossmember and trimmed it too suit as it was wider, i had the early style like the 40 series with the removable "L" brackets. The tail shaft is now about 530mm long with the rear 60 springs pushing the diff back around 2".
Also had to rebend the shifter to suit. Changed the clutch master to a later model with same size bore to suit the H55 and replumbed the line to the right hand side. Some minor trimming to clearance for the slave was needed. Looking at running the floor mounted handbrake but have not decided if it will be too crowded on the cover as i want to run bucket seats and Tuffy centre console.
The rear tube cross member is a tight fit at the back of the 5 speed but works.
Really happy how this turned out. Excuse the welding on the cover.

 

[frankenyota]

Heres a few pictures of the clearance at the rear transfercase.

 

[frankenyota]

I removed the electric fuel pump as pictured above and fitted the later model mechanical fuel pump with a return line but blanked the return as recommended by people here on mud. Tank didn't have the return line.
So after rebuilding both the later 2F carb with vacuum secondarys i ended up using the original F carb so i could run the early style air filter box.
But I had a flat spot at full throttle and assumed the other carb needed to be rekitted, until months later it wouldn't start and after working out the fuel pump had failed i fitted the original style fuel pump with no return. This fixed the flat spot i was experiencing and idles great.

 

[frankenyota]

Picture of carb and air box set up

 

[frankenyota]

Removed the 5mm plate brackets from the rear of the roll bar and used the steel to make up some proper mounting plates for the roll cage.
Upon removing the seat belts I found the bolts were just threaded into the tube, so made some brackets to mount the retractable seat belts.
I’m using some seat belts I picked up from a Suzuki vitara when I bought some fold and tumble rear seats.
What is a good replacement for seat belts?

 

[frankenyota]

Slowing been filling holes drilled in the top edge of the tub from the PO, and removing the bad paint job inside the tub.
Looking at going the raptor liner for interior, fashion green colour matched.
Why would anyone paint over the original fashion green

 

[frankenyota]

View attachment 1834973
Panel beating the tool box sides and floor pan as I go.
Happy to find minimal rust, one of the reasons I bought it originally.
Removed the window hinge as the pin snapped, so drilled it out and fitted a bolt for now.
What are some options for replacement pins?

 

[thebigredrocker]

SMG’s stainless pins and bronze bushings are an option. Stainless Steel Windshield/Doors/Hood/Amby FJ40 Hinge Pins with Bronze Bushings.

 

[frankenyota]

• SMG’s stainless pins and bronze bushings are an option. Stainless Steel Windshield/Doors/Hood/Amby FJ40 Hinge Pins with Bronze Bushings.

Those are nice, might see if he ships to Aus.
Bought some bronze door bushes a while back for all the door, bonnet and windscreen hinges.
Also considering the removable door hinge kit as I have fibreglass and steel half doors and the original full doors.
Steel half doors needed more work than I thought but were cheap.

 

[frankenyota]

F

Finished filling holes in tub top edge, grind back, prime with paint and drink a few beers.

 

[frankenyota]

Made some progress on the half doors, these things were full of bog.
Looks like they welded pipe in for the top section and warped the doors in the progress.
Replacing the rusted bits, not sure wether to keep the curved tops or go with flat metal edges?
Also thinking about removing the external door handles all together as they only came with one and the holes are all flogged out.
The dogs were following me around all day
Wondering when they could go for a ride hahaha

 

[frankenyota]

Workshop dogs

 

[frankenyota]

The rear sill showed some signs of corrosion under the edge. Wanting to raptor liner the interior i decided to repair it.
Plan is to get this thing on the road and enjoy it. Will do the exterior down the road.

 

[frankenyota]

Also repaired the bottom of my rear door. Factory only has one small drain hole in the centre, not sure if i should add more?
I will put a 5mm one in the centre so i can rust proof.

 

[frankenyota]

These are the rear tail lights i fitted. Thought about the later model ones but it would have been a lot of work and i like the original reverse light set up.
Also fitted late model shackle mounts to the rear spring hanger so i could use the larger style bushes. My extended shackles still have the 15mm early pins so i used OME SB30 shackle bushes from ARB. Has a nice angle on the shackles, hopefully giving a nicer ride.

 

[frankenyota]

Rear shackle angle with 60 series rear leafs.
Hangers are only bolted with one bolt at the moment, once I'm happy with the ride i will double bolt and possibly tack weld the ends of the mounts