Need body work advise on my 1968 FJ40
- Thread starter BSLK
- Start date
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Paint over rust is never good IMHO.
I'm in the same place with my 72 right now. I'm thinking wire wheel, rust converter, then whatever surface finish i finally land on. Likely flat rattle cans for now.
Clear coating, or just putting paint over rust is not really "body work" as you aren't really doing anything to fix it.
Either fix it for structural or aesthetic reasons (cut out all rust, weld in new and properly refinish)
Or
Thread 'Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks' Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/preserving-patina-how-to-tips-and-tricks.1097611/
Either fix it for structural or aesthetic reasons (cut out all rust, weld in new and properly refinish)
Or
Thread 'Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks' Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/preserving-patina-how-to-tips-and-tricks.1097611/
DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
I agree!
I recently completed a rear sill replacement on an FJ40 model similar to yours, which had comparable issues and goals. I’ll attach the link below for reference.
Here is my two cents:
I appreciate the appeal of patina; it has a unique, aged look that many find attractive. However, the downside of patina is that there’s no effective way to completely stop rust from developing. While you can slow it down, the only way to truly halt it is to remove the rust and restore the metal to a clean state.
It seems that you also have some structural issues that need to be addressed. If left unaddressed, these could lead to bigger problems, such as water entering the vehicle during rain or water crossings.
I see three options for you:
1. If you're not overly concerned about the growing rust issues, you could apply a clear coat or boiled linseed oil and then leave it as is for a few years. Just keep in mind that rust will continue to grow, and you'll eventually need to do more work.
2. You could fix the structural issues and any holes and then try to match the patina. This should give you a few more years before further maintenance is needed.
3. You could strip everything back to clean metal, seal it, and paint it. This approach would allow you to avoid worrying about it for another fifty years.
If it were my decision, I would likely go with option two, despite my tendency toward perfectionism and OCD, which would push me to consider option three.
Please keep us updated on your progress and share plenty of photos so we can follow along! If you need any assistance, feel free to direct message me.
"HOW TO" - Replace the Rear Sill on an FJ40 – STEP BY STEP
There are many threads about sill replacement here on MUD, but I could NOT find a comprehensive “step-by-step” guide on how to do it. Therefore, I decided to create one in hopes it might help someone in the future. It was my first time replacing a sill, and I took my time to ensure I did the...
forum.ih8mud.com
Builds - Project Old Blue Eyes
Starting up a new build! I had 2 x FJ40s from Montana delivered to my sister-in-laws farm and we decided to start working on Old Blue Eyes first… She’s in much better condition than Old Yeller and I think we have a better shot at getting her back on the road this summer, and my FJ80 project is...
forum.ih8mud.com
Your 40 looks like the twin to my '69. I'm starting to cut out rusted areas and replacing with new metal: rear sill, lower rear quarters and 2 small patches on outer rockers. Only way to really keep it from getting worse. I'm not planning on a full repaint, just blending in areas where there's new metal.
Really appreciate dirtdaubers link above^^^
If you want to keep it as is, then def don't cover the rust with any kind of coating or paint.
Really appreciate dirtdaubers link above^^^
If you want to keep it as is, then def don't cover the rust with any kind of coating or paint.
It takes a special kind of madness to choose door #3
DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
I agree, but that looks GREAT!!! ...and you will be able to sleep at night knowing you did it RIGHT!!!
I did this on my blue 77 and am about to do the same on my red 78... although, I am not taking the red one completly off the frame like I did with the blue one.
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DirtDauberGarage
SILVER Star
If you're not planning on cutting rust out I would water blast, wire wheel what you can then get absolutely dry before painting/spraying fishoil on both sides of rust and over all seams. Leave a week or so then put a light coat of enamel - aerosols are fine - over the underside, that will set the fishoil. This will hold things at bay. I've had no luck with Por15 and I've used gallons - a very well marketed product.
Death by a thousand cuts (of small rust repair) is more palatable?
Also, many aren't aware of the size of the eventual worm can when they chip away at that first cracked bondo spot with plans to "fix it"....
Also, many aren't aware of the size of the eventual worm can when they chip away at that first cracked bondo spot with plans to "fix it"....
