Try putting your foot on the gas a little at a stop to bump up idle speed manually by 100 or 200rpm and see if the temp climb stops. Could be idle is too low and not spinning the water pump fast enough.
Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (15 Viewers)
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I'll give that a try as well.
I think I found the source of my oddly low coolant temps reported several posts back.
I removed the thermostat and found the motor had a 160* t-stat installed.
Ordered a 180* and a 187* to see if that does the job. 187* is the OEM recommendation for a number of the LS motors; would be curious to know what others might be running.
I removed the thermostat and found the motor had a 160* t-stat installed.
Ordered a 180* and a 187* to see if that does the job. 187* is the OEM recommendation for a number of the LS motors; would be curious to know what others might be running.
I switched to the 160°F thermostat this past summer...going to see how it does in the cooler months going up the sierras this winter...hope its warm enough for the heater...
Interesting. Do you know what you were running previously? Was it running too hot?
previously it was staying on the 210°F+ in city traffic.....
with the 160°F thermostat.. I run at 190°F, in city traffic..
once on the hwy I dont think the 180°/160° thermostat make much of a difference...
I think same can be said when ambient temps hit 100°F plus.....
at those temps I run anywhere in between 205°F and 210°F....
After much reading I think it is safe to say that these engines like and perform better at the 200+ temps
with the 160°F thermostat.. I run at 190°F, in city traffic..
once on the hwy I dont think the 180°/160° thermostat make much of a difference...
I think same can be said when ambient temps hit 100°F plus.....
at those temps I run anywhere in between 205°F and 210°F....
After much reading I think it is safe to say that these engines like and perform better at the 200+ temps
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once the thermostat is open it doesn't matter what thermostat you have 
Still very new to the LS scene. Curious what spare parts folks are carrying with them for their motors, aside from the obvious items (belts, etc)
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Fuses and a couple relays.
Drive belt is the only thing I carry in the race car. I do have the stock belt set up so the stock belt works. I have yet to throw a belt. Most of the aftermarket belt set ups can throw belts at high rpms. I do keep a tensioner and a alt in the race trailer but have yet to need them.
I would be worried about breaking the drivetrain, axles, ring and pinions etc with the engine you have. I have broken HP Dana 60 gears, lockers, chromoly axle shafts and u-joints, all in the front axle. Rear 14B has held up great! All that with D.O.T. 37" tires.
I do have RCV axles on order and 3:1 low range t-case gears to try and control things but I know I’ll need to control the skinny pedal or else...
Found a 10% overdrive harmonic balancer for truck engines. Would spin the water pump, alternator, and power steering pump a little faster.
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That will be good for low rpm stuff but you will burn up your power steering pump at higher rpms...do not ask me how I know!Found a 10% overdrive harmonic balancer for truck engines. Would spin the water pump, alternator, and power steering pump a little faster.
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What will you burn up in the power steering pump?
Not sure. I had problems with it not working well afterward. I am not sure if the seals get hot or what. I just sent them back to PSC for an overhaul. Not many PS pumps like high rpms.
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2fpower
SILVER Star
I am trying to learn as much as I can about the transmission options for LS swap... I am dropping one into a 70 series and there is not much information out there on squeezing one in a 70.
I have a LM4 motor, is there anything specific to that motor I need to be aware of for transmission options?
Also, what is the length of the gm 4L60 or 4L80 from the front of the bellhousing to the end of the Adapter to the toyota transfer case.
I have a LM4 motor, is there anything specific to that motor I need to be aware of for transmission options?
Also, what is the length of the gm 4L60 or 4L80 from the front of the bellhousing to the end of the Adapter to the toyota transfer case.
Don't forget you also have the 4l65e and 4l70e to choose from. The 4l80e is very strong and easy to find, but the negative is the first gear ratio isn't as low as the others. My 4l60e in 1St gear in low range is very nice offroad. However the jump from 1St to second is bigger than the 4l80e. I believe you will need to base your transmission choice somewhat on your engines reluctor wheel count and what ecu is compatible with said count and transmission. They do make reluctant wheel converters though so that is also a possibility. Some of my info may be wrong but hopefully gives some direction for you to research.
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Greetings all. I've read this thread front to back and really admire the craftsmanship and ingenuity that has gone into these builds. I'm in the process of gathering parts and will be heading down the LS transplant path in the very near future.
The recipient Cruiser is a 1991 FJ80 with a 3FE and 265K miles on it. Truck has an OME 2.5" lift already installed and 35's. I've acquired an entire 2007 GMC Yukon Denali with reasonable miles for the powertrain. It has the L92 and 6L80E trans in it. The plan is to go with a PSI stand alone harness with ECM and TCM tune. Marks adapter to the HF2A transfer case in the stock position.
Concerns:
The recipient Cruiser is a 1991 FJ80 with a 3FE and 265K miles on it. Truck has an OME 2.5" lift already installed and 35's. I've acquired an entire 2007 GMC Yukon Denali with reasonable miles for the powertrain. It has the L92 and 6L80E trans in it. The plan is to go with a PSI stand alone harness with ECM and TCM tune. Marks adapter to the HF2A transfer case in the stock position.
Concerns:
- If anyone has kept notes on what wiring can be successfully gutted on the 1991-1992 FJ80, I'd love to hear from you. Got EWD's for the truck but sorting through diagrams is not my forte. Looks as though everything going to the ECU can pretty much go, but want to make sure.
- Can anyone with a 6L80E chime in on how to get reverse lights to work?
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BajaCruiser94
SILVER Star
Has anyone used the LS oil level sensor with the stock Toyota idiot light?
I tried creating a circuit, but seems the Chevy uses a different logic with this sensor other than open and closed; Im experiencing the light going on on certain RPM ranges on highway speeds; double an triple checked oil levels and they are all in spec together with the oil pressure.
Researched the LS wiring diragram and the sensor input goes in to the PCM together with the oil pressure sensor, speed sensor and Engine speed sensor; so I guess is a mix of both?
Has anyone used this sensor succesfully or you are just bypassing it to turn the dash light off?
Thanks
-Emerson.
I tried creating a circuit, but seems the Chevy uses a different logic with this sensor other than open and closed; Im experiencing the light going on on certain RPM ranges on highway speeds; double an triple checked oil levels and they are all in spec together with the oil pressure.
Researched the LS wiring diragram and the sensor input goes in to the PCM together with the oil pressure sensor, speed sensor and Engine speed sensor; so I guess is a mix of both?
Has anyone used this sensor succesfully or you are just bypassing it to turn the dash light off?
Thanks
-Emerson.
Bama4door
Supporting Vendor
Have you thought about just using the Toyota sensor to an adapter that fits the Chevy oil pan? I’m not sure what the thread sizes are on both, but you could probably figure it out.
