That’s weird. I’ve wheeled there in late July/early August with 100° temps and had no issues and had a lower coolant temp.
Are you running any sort of EVAP system?
no evap.
stock 80 radiator.
fuel tank venting to atmosphere
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That’s weird. I’ve wheeled there in late July/early August with 100° temps and had no issues and had a lower coolant temp.
Are you running any sort of EVAP system?
Same here.no evap.
stock 80 radiator.
fuel tank venting to atmosphere
You could look at live data and see what readings the ecu is putting out, especially the map reading. Could be a map sensor going bad.Well I took the LX to Moab. It ran perfectly on the way there, and most of the first day of wheeling. The temps in Moab where mild for maob (mid 70's and lots of sun). Ran Moab Rim w/ no problems and most of Cliffhanger before the problem came up. Turned off the cruiser to watch some of my crew climb an obstacle. When it was my turn I went to fire it up and it stumbled sputtered and died. Pulled a MAP code, cleared it and reset the computer. Ran great for a few min and than died again. It did this probably 8 times trying to get it off the trail and back to camp. By the time I was back at camp it ran great again. Day 2 same thing, but only died maybe 4 times. Let it sit for an hour while eating burgers at Milts. Fired it up and ran perfect back to camp. Day 3 took the hood off and it did great most of the day, only stalling once in the late afternoon. On the way home it stalled on me 4 times at hwy speeds. Twice w/ the hood on and twice w/ the hood removed....
Engine temps running around 200 degrees.
Heat soaked, vapor locked?? not sure. I'm going to do some fuel line insulation but not sure what else to look at.
Thanks for any suggestions and ideas y'all
I replaced it w/ an O’reillys MAP while in Moab.You could look at live data and see what readings the ecu is putting out, especially the map reading. Could be a map sensor going bad.
Is the code present everytime it stalls or sputters?Pulled a MAP code
Is the code present everytime it stalls or sputters?
Any vac leaks on the intake, fuel pressure readings, wiring all good?
I would monitor live data then when its acting up. See what the map reading is, TPS reading, etc. Check the wiring of the map as well. Also check your main ECU plugs especially the map wires for any evidence of loose or not fully seated pins.I replaced it w/ an O’reillys MAP while in Moab.
Which shop did the work?1995 80 Series with brand new GM LS3 6.2 EROD crate motor with a nearly new 2 mile 6L80E transmission from a GMC 2500 4x4.
-Cruise Control - Check
-Manual tap +/- shifting - Check
-Sport mode - Check
-Tow Haul mode - Check
-GM A/C-Check
-GM Power Steering-Check
-PRNDM mode in shifter with PRN123456 digital read out- Check
-No money Left - Check
Just getting ready to start for the first time next week. Will have a complete build thread and will be glad to try and answer any questions that are at my pay grade. Other questions will need to go to the shop that is doing my build. Lot's of little challenges but anything you desire is possible with these builds if you have time and money to do it. Even with a GM LS drive-by-wire engine the factory cruise control lever can operate the cruise control as it did stock. You can have manual tap shifting and tow haul and sport mode if you desire. I admit I desired all of it. Did I mention time and money? More details and info soon.
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IIRC, it was a shop called Horsepower Solutions in VA.Which shop did the work?
Is there anyone thats done the swap in California that can chime in on what headers they used?
I wouldn't do headers until after going to the REF...
Even with an EO number you still need to make sure those headers were offer to that particular engine year...
Once you get your CARB sticker it would be much easier to slap any year EO# headers in there..
I can’t imagine the stock 02 manifolds working. It’s been a few years, but I’m pretty sure that was a big no go.That's what I figured. Are there fitment issues when using the stock manifolds (02 denali xl)? I was able to get the cats from the donor truck but I'm assuming they will need to be significantly altered to fit.
Thanks for the info. I'm gonna try and stop by a local ref and see what my options are as far as exhaust manifolds. Trying to source all the parts before I pull the motor. Living in this state is getting oldI can’t imagine the stock 02 manifolds working. It’s been a few years, but I’m pretty sure that was a big no go.
No doubt. From all the stuff I’ve read on here I wouldn’t even attempt a swap. I’d have to setup an LLC in Montana or something.Thanks for the info. I'm gonna try and stop by a local ref and see what my options are as far as exhaust manifolds. Trying to source all the parts before I pull the motor. Living in this state is getting old
I wouldn't do headers until after going to the REF...
Even with an EO number you still need to make sure those headers were offer to that particular engine year...
Once you get your CARB sticker it would be much easier to slap any year EO# headers in there..
thatcabledude is correct. It was Horsepower Solutions in VA.Which shop did the work?
Thanks for the quick feedback. I believe t-stat is 180*. Fans are computer controlled and kick on at 204* I believe. Shop that did install did tune trans and shift point during the final motor tune and so far the shifting seems great. You aren’t too far away from me so would love to let you check it out and see what you think of the final setup.standard operating temps for that combo is 210 deg F. What thermostat do you have in it? Are the fans controlled by the computer? You can change the on/off of them with programming. I have that engine tranny combo in my race car. It is a lot of fun. Talk to Zero Gravity performance on tuning your trans.