FZJ80 throttle Cable swap/adjust

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zrschmd

zrschmd

Joined
Jan 5, 2025
Threads
1
Messages
8
Location
Switzerland
Hi Guys,

I am new to the Forum but i habe been reading quite intensely since the beginning of 2024 as by then i have bought my 80 Series.

I do experience following Problem with the 80:

When i am on the Highway doing about 50-55 mph and going uphill, i cant get it to downshift by pressing the throttle all the way down (Kickdown).

Sometimes in the same Situation i might get it to down shift if i lift the foot completely off the accelerator and then quickly press it all the way down (this only works sometimes).

i already replaced the original cable that goes from the accelerarotpedal to the throttlebody and also changed from a 35 inch tire back to a 33 inch (because of the swissmountain roads and crazy Gas prices here… :-) which didnt affect this problem in any way.

The next thing i am going to replace is the cable that goes from the throttlebody to the transmission.

My 80 is a VX 1993 Petrol 4.5l.

I found out that the original cable is no longer produced for this model so i ordered the successor with the Partnumber: 35520-60111.

On this cable i dont see a bead that you need to adjust the cable accodingly to the Servicemanual.

Is this the right Cable?
Is there any chance that the Cable will fix my Problem?

Thanks for your replies and inputs.
The pictures are there just for entertainment :)

-Patrick

IMG_0509.webp


IMG_0517.webp


IMG_0166.webp
 
Which automatic transmission does your 80 Series have, A440, A442, A343?? You can look on the VIN plate or tell us
the actual model (also on the VIN plate) of 80 Series. It may be something like FZJ80R-GNMEU or FZJ80R-GNPEKQ etc

The new cable (35520-60111) should have a barrel type lug (cylindrical) on both ends but may not have the little bead.

80 Series Throttle Cable 35520-60111.png



Edited for clarity
 
Last edited:
"It’s not a kick down it’s line pressure adjustment"

Throttle cable is Toyota's terminology.

"Kick Down Cable" is an older term that may not apply to some newer transmissions ie: if they're "controlled by wire" via the accelerator pedal position
but most people who've been around longer than 15 minutes know it as the "kick-down" cable (vernacular usage of the term) ie: you press the accelerator pedal hard and the transmission downshifts (due to that cable being connected to the transmission).

 
Last edited:
I had my throttle housing removed about a year ago and did not work on the car since (car is in another country). Unfortunately I did not make any pictures of how throttle/accelerator/cruise cables ran. Accellerator and cruise seem obvious, throttle I do not understand.
I could not find any pictures in the service manuals I have, nor did I found anything on the internet.

Does anybody maybe have a sketch or picture how it should be connected and adjusted? Accellerator and cruise I assume without (too much) slack. Throttle?
 
adjusting mine solved this problem. It would struggle to change down gears going up hills. A small adjustment solved this. I did not go by the FSM, as maybe my cable is stretched, but I adjusted it to where I was satisfied with the performance of the transmission and called it a day.
 
Ronald Rooij said:
I had my throttle housing removed about a year ago and did not work on the car since (car is in another country). Unfortunately I did not make any pictures of how throttle/accelerator/cruise cables ran. Accellerator and cruise seem obvious, throttle I do not understand.
I could not find any pictures in the service manuals I have, nor did I found anything on the internet.

Does anybody maybe have a sketch or picture how it should be connected and adjusted? Accellerator and cruise I assume without (too much) slack. Throttle?
Click to expand...
Found it. It was fun connecting the throttle-cable.

Throttle bottom one, Accellerator front, Cruise control rear.
 
Hi Guys, just a little follow up on the Problem:

So i‘ve been chasing down another problem with a low Idle condition and some irregular ignition timing.

I thought the problem of the irregular not 100% stable ignition timing and low idle would be the TPS Sensor. After long tinkering while the car was standing and also after swapping to a new TPS i didnt get the hoped for results. I ended up putting back on the „old“ TPS so i could put the new TPS aside as a future replacement part. But i did turn, while reinstalling, the „old“ TPS a bit clockwise from the original Position (about 3-4mm). When i went out for a drive i noticed that this adjustment solved the Problem with the Downshift while not in ECT-Mode.

Previously i replaced the „Throttle-Cable“ that goes from the Throttlebody to the Transmission with little to no difference.

So for me it was just a little Adjustment on the TPS that worked.

Hope this helps a few people that experienced a similar problem.

Hoping that the low idle condition comes from the IAC (ordered a new one), i already swapped the distributor arm and cap…

-Patrick
 
you'd be surprised how much of a difference TPS adjustments make on these vehicles. Even the slightest adjustment can change a lot.
 
zrschmd said:
Hi Guys, just a little follow up on the Problem:

So i‘ve been chasing down another problem with a low Idle condition and some irregular ignition timing.

I thought the problem of the irregular not 100% stable ignition timing and low idle would be the TPS Sensor. After long tinkering while the car was standing and also after swapping to a new TPS i didnt get the hoped for results. I ended up putting back on the „old“ TPS so i could put the new TPS aside as a future replacement part. But i did turn, while reinstalling, the „old“ TPS a bit clockwise from the original Position (about 3-4mm). When i went out for a drive i noticed that this adjustment solved the Problem with the Downshift while not in ECT-Mode.

Previously i replaced the „Throttle-Cable“ that goes from the Throttlebody to the Transmission with little to no difference.

So for me it was just a little Adjustment on the TPS that worked.

Hope this helps a few people that experienced a similar problem.

Hoping that the low idle condition comes from the IAC (ordered a new one), i already swapped the distributor arm and cap…

-Patrick
Click to expand...
Same
 
zrschmd said:
Hi Guys, just a little follow up on the Problem:

So i‘ve been chasing down another problem with a low Idle condition and some irregular ignition timing.

I thought the problem of the irregular not 100% stable ignition timing and low idle would be the TPS Sensor. After long tinkering while the car was standing and also after swapping to a new TPS i didnt get the hoped for results. I ended up putting back on the „old“ TPS so i could put the new TPS aside as a future replacement part. But i did turn, while reinstalling, the „old“ TPS a bit clockwise from the original Position (about 3-4mm). When i went out for a drive i noticed that this adjustment solved the Problem with the Downshift while not in ECT-Mode.

Previously i replaced the „Throttle-Cable“ that goes from the Throttlebody to the Transmission with little to no difference.

So for me it was just a little Adjustment on the TPS that worked.

Hope this helps a few people that experienced a similar problem.

Hoping that the low idle condition comes from the IAC (ordered a new one), i already swapped the distributor arm and cap…

-Patrick
Click to expand...
mine ended up being the oxygen sensor.
 
Hi Guys!

Quick Update to the low idle condition.
So i swapped out the IAC for a new one.
And the low idle condition seems to be solved.
Now i have the problem that the idle is at about 800 rpm when the engine is warm and the AC is off.
Also i dont get the occasional almost dying while reversing not anymore. What i also noticed is that when i quickly blip the throttle it is much more stable at returning to idle and the in general the throttle response is better.

Before:

500-550 rpm at idle

After:

Solid 800 rpm at idle

The next thing i will be cheking is the ignition timing and tinkering with that. The ladt time i checked (before the IAC swap) it alwyas seemd to fluctuate a bit.

I will keep you updated, hope this helps others to chase down some problems.

(oh and a sidequest was insulating the whole roof with taking down the sunroofassembly, well worth it for noise reduction, i used Alubutyl in combination with a closed cell foam. The crossmember of the body and the roof sheet were bonded with glue from factory. This glue turned rockhard over the past years and everytime i would go over a bump seemd to make noise, well worth checking this on your Cruiser! I now applied some new perma elastic glue/silicone to prevent that, much quieter ride! I also replaced the inner door seals on all 4 doors with a generic pinchweld gasket, this also reduced roadnoise)

-Patrick
 
zrschmd said:
The next thing i will be cheking is the ignition timing and tinkering with that. The ladt time i checked (before the IAC swap) it alwyas seemd to fluctuate a bit.
Click to expand...
You are checking your timing while in diagnostic mode, right? Otherwise the timing will jump around.
 
zrschmd said:
I did but it into diganostic mode via the OBD I port and also turned off any accessories and the AC.
Click to expand...
When you say jumping around, how much are we talking? It doesnt stay dead stable, some movement is okay. As long as in diagnostic mode with TE1 and E1 bridged and verified by flashing check engine light. I had issues with mine not going into diagnostic mode, despite doing this, and it ended up being a dodgy EFI fuse (I believe).
 
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