All that extra flow sounds like a great excuse to add ram assist.
Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (8 Viewers)
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You can adjust the pressure by swapping out the flow piston.
*Below parts are examples, find the exact one for your application*
or install a reducer fitting into the line like this:
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Or install one of these
Heidts PS-101 Adjustable Power Steering Flow Valve
If you have power steering on your car and it has too much assist or a 'twitchy' feel to it you may have too much pressure to the rack or box. This nifty valve allows you to adjust the pressure and get the road feel you want. It has a 1/4" npt inlet and outlet for the pressure line, and a 3/8"...www.speedwaymotors.com
or an adjustable pump.
Other options....
Pends on what pump you have
SF23 - Flow Control Fitting with -6AN for P-Pump
Flow Control Fitting with -6AN for Saginaw "P" Pump 0.160" Orifice Sizewww.pscmotorsports.com
SF27 - Flow Control Fitting with -8AN for P-Pump
Flow Control Fitting with -8AN for Saginaw "P" Pump 0.170" Orifice Size
Got out twice this weekend. Shakedown Saturday went amazingly well! Love this 5.3 and new crawler gears too.
2fpower
SILVER Star
RCV?
Thanks, I'll check into them. I sent out feelers to Dutchman Axles in Idaho because the did really nice work for the NV4500 adapter. My project needs 19 spline Toyota male and 27 spline GM female and I think the setups are quite different for cutting female splines. I have also contacted Hayes Couplings which seems like an amazing shop so I hope they're willing to do small scale work.
If anyone else has any ideas or experience please chime in.
What exactly are you trying to do?
Just a different approach to connecting a 4L60e 4x4 transmission to the HF2A transfer case. So I need to have a spline shaft made up to connect the two. It's something I want to take on as a challenge and is actually similar to that NV4500 adapter except they were able to cut spline into the 2wd shaft since it was long enough and thick enough. Also inspired by Jsin's awesome Project Canyonero.
I hope to come up with an alternative adapter for people with a 4x4 trans, around here there are not many 2wd trucks to pull from.
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Thanks! Couldn't be happier at the moment
Teaser video I got today from dyno day.
Bludozer
SILVER Star
What shop? Sounds incredible.
Horsepower Solutions in Newport News.
EDIT: got a final engine bay shot. Can’t wait to see it with my own eyes.
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What mpg is everyone seeing with a basic 5.3 swap?
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
15.x mixed. That’s flooring it all the time, not taking it easy at all. Fully armored, rack, stock gears. Best I’ve seen 17.
Does this swap have its own thread, by any chance?
Its currently pulled apart as im cleaning the engine bay and the wiring...
I converted my HZJ80 to 5.7L LS1, im in OZ so parts were easier but also harder then the you guys in the states
I retained the 5speed manual
Rear hump sump from summit racing with 3 in coils clears fine, using some hooker block huggers into a twin 2.5 to single 3in exhuast
I did my own wiring.
Marks adaptors here in australia supplied all the adaptors
Any more questions, just ask
Been doing some reading about the gen4 truck intake or trailblazer intake. Maybe others will find this helpful. Supposedly it is a good upgrade. Right now I have the gen 3 truck intake. So I did some research online to find a dyno comparison. This is what I found:
The gen 4 makes more peak hp and torque. However torque below 2500 rpm significantly favors the gen 3 truck intake. At 1800 rpm their is almost a 100ftlbs more torque. This is with 317 heads that give 9.4:1 compression so maybe at higher compression things are different. I think I'm going to stick with the gen 3 truck intake.
The gen 4 makes more peak hp and torque. However torque below 2500 rpm significantly favors the gen 3 truck intake. At 1800 rpm their is almost a 100ftlbs more torque. This is with 317 heads that give 9.4:1 compression so maybe at higher compression things are different. I think I'm going to stick with the gen 3 truck intake.
Well I took the LX to Moab. It ran perfectly on the way there, and most of the first day of wheeling. The temps in Moab where mild for maob (mid 70's and lots of sun). Ran Moab Rim w/ no problems and most of Cliffhanger before the problem came up. Turned off the cruiser to watch some of my crew climb an obstacle. When it was my turn I went to fire it up and it stumbled sputtered and died. Pulled a MAP code, cleared it and reset the computer. Ran great for a few min and than died again. It did this probably 8 times trying to get it off the trail and back to camp. By the time I was back at camp it ran great again. Day 2 same thing, but only died maybe 4 times. Let it sit for an hour while eating burgers at Milts. Fired it up and ran perfect back to camp. Day 3 took the hood off and it did great most of the day, only stalling once in the late afternoon. On the way home it stalled on me 4 times at hwy speeds. Twice w/ the hood on and twice w/ the hood removed....
Engine temps running around 200 degrees.
Heat soaked, vapor locked?? not sure. I'm going to do some fuel line insulation but not sure what else to look at.
Thanks for any suggestions and ideas y'all
Engine temps running around 200 degrees.
Heat soaked, vapor locked?? not sure. I'm going to do some fuel line insulation but not sure what else to look at.
Thanks for any suggestions and ideas y'all
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
That’s weird. I’ve wheeled there in late July/early August with 100° temps and had no issues and had a lower coolant temp.
Are you running any sort of EVAP system?
