2F "Boat Anchor" build thread (1 Viewer)

[Trollhole]

True! I actually had to take the grinder to mine, b/c it was protruding from the plate more than the thickness of the gasket. So, I flushed it up with the flap disc and cleaned it out... forgot about that bit, since I did it a while back.


Marshall: Got Nibs. just not as prominent as later ones. I think they must be vents for the gases in the mold when the cast iron is poured.

I see. Interesting. Mine had about half of them there the other half were missing. I even found one in the pan. The ones still atached were easily snapped off with my finger. Probably wouldn't do an engine good to have those flying around inside the motor. Couldn't imagine they could get through the oil pump but who knows.

 

[cruiserbrett]

Reviving this thread so I can finish it... Got the motor done, just catching up on posting progress.

Next installment: Pistons...

1: follow the FSM for assembly orientation. lube the wrist pins with assembly lube, and insert part way into piston...
2: clamp a long 3/8" socket extenison in the vice and slide the piston and pin onto the extension by sliding the hole in the wrist pin over the socket extension. This allows you to tighten the clamp bolt without any chance of twisting the rod if you had clamped it by the big end...

3: tighten wrist pin clamp bolt(with a dab of locktite) when pin is centered in piston and gap is even on either side of the rod.

4: remove and repeat five more times.

5: rings... what a pain. I lube the rings in engine oil, and start with the squiggly oil ring followed by the two oil control rings. you can install all of these with your fingers.

6: get your ring expander and get to work on the 2.5 mm bottom comp ring and then the 2mm top ring. Every ring t\has a top and bottom so pay close attention to the instructions, making sure that the orientation is correct.

7: Place in the piston box upside down and start the next one. Dont worry about gap orientation yet.

8: Open the box of rod bearings and ensure they are sized per the machine work you had done. IE a .010" crank rod journal should have a .010"(.25mm) U/S bearing, 90% of bearings will say the undersize on the backside of the shell. Wouldnt be the first time something ogt mis boxed, so check it out.

9: All the rod bearings halves are the same in every kit I have used, so dont sweat orientation UNLESS only 6 have holes. If thats the case, these go in the rod half, not the cap half. Install the bearings dry on the backside and lube with assembly lube on the babbit side. keep the cap with the rod, and only hang the cap on one rod bolt(easy to kift off cap without getting the bearing surface dirty.)

10: Time to prep the block/crank. I normally roll the crank 360 degrees slowly checking to make sure NOTHING got on the rod bearing journals. Dust, dirt, spiders, or whatever. Once thats good, lube only the journal you are working on at that time, that way there is less chance something sticks to the assembly lube on a journal you arent paying attention to.

11: Break out the ring compressor and line up the gaps per the FSM. Some 2F FSM's dont specify oil control ring gaps, but F manuals do, so follow those if you have one. Some one posted a scan of it and its in a thread so search if you dont have it.

12: once you have the gaps set, compress the rings... I try to get the ring compressor at least 1.5" down the skirt so it squares up better and holds the rings tight.

13: I like to have the bores horizontal and the crank at the bottom of its stroke, but its up to you on that. It allows me to easily tap in the piston(with the non business end of a plastic handled hammer) and guide the rod into place. Do not forget to use some sort of tubing on the rod bolts to prevent them from scratching the crank. I have found that clear 3/8" ID tube from the hardware store is thinner walled than fuel hose, and works better.

14: Make sure you have the notch facing forward and get to work. Install the rod cap in the correct orientation after the rod is seated and torque the rod cap to spec. Roll the crank to the next hole and repeat.

I will post some pics tomorrow...

For now, here is the finished product.

 

[PabloCruise]

Glad to see this thread is back in bidness!

 

[Red-Thumper]

you should make a video tape/DVD on rebuilding a 2F

i bet there would be a decent market for such a product

i'll even let you use my 2F to make the tape/DVD with

 

[cruiserbrett]

Here are some pics of the steps listed above. Lube up the skirts of the piston with a good assembly lube. This is especially key if you are going to let the motor sit for a while before starting.. Motor oil will drip off and the pistons can easily get scuffed if you dont get proper lubrication to them prior to start...

Since I dont have a camera to take pics of the process(hands covered in assembly lube at the time) I dont have pics of tapping the pistons in, but that should be easy to figure out.

 

[cruiserbrett]

If you end up with a piston that looks cocked in the bore, or shifted to one side noticeably, make sure you take it out and check the squiggly oil ring ends to see that they have NOT overlapped. Its easy for the ring compressor to cause this on certain brands of rings... I used the ITM rings for this motor, but in the future wont.

As you will notice in the pic, although its hard to tell, the green end tab of the oil ring is on top of the red tab, and that will push the piston away from that side of the bore. If you look carefully, you will notice the piston is ever so slightly shifted in the bore. Its not an optical illusion, you have to check carefully.

If you discover this, fix it by removing the piston, and resetting the end gaps and reinstalling.

 

[RockDoc]

Thanks for taking the time to post all this Brett. I've been prepping and assembling my engine this last week, and along side the FSM and Tom Monroe's rebuilding book, I've been checking your writeup before each major step.

 

[cruiserbrett]

Time to button up the oiling system. Install the pump and associated parts, in this case I used the Late F/early 2F pump(blueprinted) and pickup system. Leaving each fitting loose until all the parts are assembled is key to get it all to go back together, since the compression fittings dont like to start threading if they arent lined up.

Sidenote:
If you look at the pic, I like to mark the bolts with red paint and a small paint bush, to indicate that I torqued them down. I do this immediately after I torque each bolt, so I dont have to deal with remembering if I torqued this or that. just something to help my horrible short term memory... now where was I?

For the oil pan gasket, IF I am doing this on the engine stand with the engine upside down, I like using the 4 piece gasket that you get from felpro, since I can trim the ends as needed to get a good fit, which helps prevent gasket shifting and squeezing out...

A little RTV or Right Stuff(I use the later) on each corner helps hold the gasket in place. the side gaskets are directional, so make sure you eyeball it before dropping onto the RTV. Put another dab of RTV in each corner ontop of the long gaskets and install the trimmed to fit main cap gaskets. Drop the pan on and EVENLY tighten the bolts in a pattern working from the center. Dont wail on the wrench. Tighten them in increments, cause it will loosen one when you tighten others. once they are all snug, let the RTV/sealant setup for the night and I will then retorque them the next day...

 

[Splangy]

Are those pistons in backwards? I thought the notches faced the back of the engine? Or do I remember backwards?

 

[Will Van]

FYI: Check the length and fit of the torx screws folks recommend for the timing cover plate...

Now that I am working on sticking the cam in, I was in the test fit mode, to figure out what screws went where, so I didnt ruin the OEM toyota timing cover backing plate gasket I use in place of the Fel-pro one.

As I was test fitting the torx screws I noticed they were tight, but the plate was not. So I backed one out thinking I might have something in the hole, or worse cross threaded... neither was the case.

So I compared the original flat tipped screw to the new torx screw, and discovered the torx screw was about 1-1.25mm longer and lacked the slightly convex point of the original, and I think that was causing it to bind in the block before fully clamping the gasket and plate.

Just something to check, at least with early blocks, as I am sure tapped depth varies from block to block. The timing plate would leak like crazy if you didnt have it fully clamped to the block since the oiling passage to the cam gear squirter is sealed by the gasket.
View attachment 341371

Where did you get those torx screws?

 

[Will Van]

Well, a 1/2" NPT is perfect after reaming the opening with the tapered reamer you really HAVE to use to run that big a tap...

Why do you have to use a reamer? I thought reamers were used after you have drilled a hole, to smooth the edges? Should't you just use a conventional 45/64 drill bit and then a 1/2" NPT tap? What am I missing here?

 

[DougAustinTx]

Why do you have to use a reamer? I thought reamers were used after you have drilled a hole, to smooth the edges? Should't you just use a conventional 45/64 drill bit and then a 1/2" NPT tap? What am I missing here?

Cast Iron doesn't tap for threads like steel does. The reamer gets the hole to a size that you can more easily get the tap going.

 

[Travis 76]

The torx screws can be bought from Toyota for the 3FE engine

 

[Travis 76]

Here is the part number

 

[Will Van]

View attachment 2111608Here is the part number

Fantastic! Thank you!