2f build ~ interrupted. Fuel pump blues.

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May 20, 2023
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Location
Bogota
The story thus far...
My mechanic passed away mid build and I've been struggling ever since. I had a shop rebuild my stock mechanical fuel pump but now they've almost talked me into letting them install an internal electric unit in the tank. What could go wrong? And how likely?

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Are you running some sort of fuel injection? I like electric fuel pumps but they are external ones. I get about 10 years out of one. Easy and cheap to change out. I keep a spare on hand. I also made my own fuel transfer pump with them.
 
Was there an issue rebuilding your mechanical pump? If you are running a carb, the oem mechanical pump is more than sufficient. Why complicate things with extra wiring, fuel lines, etc..? Keep it simple, keep it stock.
There wasn't when I pulled the motor for the build. Then there was. The shop replaced a broken screw on the top plate of the pump, new diaphram, spring, valves, valve gaskets.
I've installed a little AC Delco electric pump in the meantime. Noisy...
 
I hear my electric pump clicking when I turn the switch on, when the clicking slows way down I engage the starter. I can't hear the the fuel pump with the engine running.
$50 Fuel transfer unit. Fuel pump Amoron/ebay $10, 25' roll fuel hose $25 ebay (20' on delivery 5 on suction) waterproof switch $5, 12' fused cig lighter extension cord $12, battery clamps $2, fuel filter $5 - it will also do diesel.
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I hear my electric pump clicking when I turn the switch on, when the clicking slows way down I engage the starter. I can't hear the the fuel pump with the engine running.
$50 Fuel transfer unit. Fuel pump Amoron/ebay $10, 25' roll fuel hose $25 ebay (20' on delivery 5 on suction) waterproof switch $5, 12' fused cig lighter extension cord $12, battery clamps $2, fuel filter $5 - it will also do diesel.
View attachment 3804928
Gr8.
Thanks
 
Are you running some sort of fuel injection? I like electric fuel pumps but they are external ones. I get about 10 years out of one. Easy and cheap to change out. I keep a spare on hand. I also made my own fuel

I hear my electric pump clicking when I turn the switch on, when the clicking slows way down I engage the starter. I can't hear the the fuel pump with the engine running.
$50 Fuel transfer unit. Fuel pump Amoron/ebay $10, 25' roll fuel hose $25 ebay (20' on delivery 5 on suction) waterproof switch $5, 12' fused cig lighter extension cord $12, battery clamps $2, fuel filter $5 - it will also do diesel.
View attachment 3804928

I hear my electric pump clicking when I turn the switch on, when the clicking slows way down I engage the starter. I can't hear the the fuel pump with the engine running.
$50 Fuel transfer unit. Fuel pump Amoron/ebay $10, 25' roll fuel hose $25 ebay (20' on delivery 5 on suction) waterproof switch $5, 12' fused cig lighter extension cord $12, battery clamps $2, fuel filter $5 - it will also do diesel.
View attachment 3804928
Its plugged into your lighter?
 
Are you running some sort of fuel injection? I like electric fuel pumps but they are external ones. I get about 10 years out of one. Easy and cheap to change out. I keep a spare on hand. I also made my own fuel transfer pump with them.
I've got an electric installed at the moment, yeah. I get some stalling but i never have more than $5 in the tank and the pump is on the wheel well just above it, so - yeah, could be overheating...pulling too hard...
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The electric fuel pump in my F150 and Land Cruiser are wired into the ignition switch. The pump are mounted under the battery in the LC and on the wheel well in the F150

My fuel transfer units can plug into the lighter or clamp on the battery.
 
The electric fuel pump in my F150 and Land Cruiser are wired into the ignition switch. My fuel transfer units can plug into the lighter or clamp on the battery.
...isn't the fuel transfer unit a float in the tank that moves your gas gauge?
 
My fuel transfer pumps are use to move fuel from 5 gallon gas cans into the gas tank or if I stitch the hoses around I can drain the gas tank on the truck or LC from the gas cap fill hole. I have given away several of these pumps to older friends that have issues holding up the gas cans to dump the fuel into their rigs.
 
Not sure the year of your ride. My 1970 with the primary tank in cab has an in tank pump I installed for EFI.

Wish I knew how noisy it was going to be. Can hear it even while driving, which means it’s pretty noisy.
 
The electric fuel pump in my F150 and Land Cruiser are wired into the ignition switch. The pump are mounted under the battery in the LC and on the wheel well in the F150

My fuel transfer units can plug into the lighter or clamp on the battery.
Ok you've got a fairly elaborate fuel delivery system.
 
Not sure the year of your ride. My 1970 with the primary tank in cab has an in tank pump I installed for EFI.

Wish I knew how noisy it was going to be. Can hear it even while driving, which means it’s pretty noisy.
Good to know. I have a '78, tank's under passenger seat.
 
Was there an issue rebuilding your mechanical pump? If you are running a carb, the oem mechanical pump is more than sufficient. Why complicate things with extra wiring, fuel lines, etc..? Keep it simple, keep it stock.
...curious. Have you heard of anyone tracing their stock mechanical fuel pump problems back to the camshaft?
 
Somewhere in the forums... yes, it has to be the correct year mech fuel pump for the block in order to seat correctly and not damage the cam. I carry an electric one with me just in case i have to work around it. I cleaned my tank, new sender, new fill neck (rusty)... I still have to replace all the soft fuel line.
Filter before the pump.
Cool idea to rig up a little plug and play pump CharleyMayer!
I have a Weber and fuel pressure regulator set to 3.5 lbs. This, HEI and Headers are only non-stock parts.

Why are they telling you to switch? CAn't get the part? They aren't cheap.
 
Pump shuts off with ignition though.
The ignition might remain in the on-position in the event of an accident, but, the motor might have stalled. A stalled motor stops the mechanical pump, but an electric one just keeps going.

I'd wire it so that either oil pressure, or the starter solenoid provides power - so that the bowl will fill when cranking.

Not modifying the harness is reason alone to not run an electric fuel pump, imo.
 

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