2F "Boat Anchor" build thread (1 Viewer)

[cruiserbrett]

Do you have any problems w/ engine being top heavy when you spin it on engine stand?

Not yet. The shaft on the mounting plate is about 3" Centerline below the rear freeze plug, so its higher than most. hoping this will balance the difference between the crank and rods in the lower half, and the cylinder head on top...

 

[cruiserbrett]

very cool thread!!

Thanks!

Very very nice. Love the oil pump rebuild.


Did you notice any casting nibs inside the rocker cover area? Just wondered if it was on later blocks only.

I have some other pics of the oil pump rebuild I have to find, so it better illustrates the process, and I will post them up later.

Ribs in the head? not really. just the flat bosses for the rocker pedestals.

behind the lifter/pushrod cover, yes, there are large ones under each head bolt, I guess to distrinbute the load from the headbolt.

 

[RockDoc]

Lots of great tips in here. I'm likely a few months away from assembly on my project, but I'll definitely be referring back to this thread when it's time.

 

[cruiserbrett]

CHECK THE FIT OF THE CAMSHAFT

BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ONCE RECIEVING THE BLOCK, TEST FIT THE CAM FIRST.


So, I am pretty sure satan lives in this 2F. apparently toyota didnt really keep the cam bearing bores in the block machined too accurately, and as such, when you press in the bearings, the size of the bearing bore is affected. So, I get to pull it all apart and ream the new bearings to fit by sacrificing an old cam...

I have built a few 2F's before and not run into this issue, so when the block is fresh from the machine shop, check this before doing anything above.

 

[Trollhole]

Nibs! Nibs! Not ribs. I didn't mention any BBQ in my post.lol

These bastards.

 

[cruiserbrett]

Ah,
I will check later...

 

[PabloCruise]

Pop the oil galley plug out with a slide hammer and dry wall screw, and clean them out. You'd be shocked how much stuff is still sedimented in there....

Why wouldn't you want to do this step before the hot tank?

 

[71FJ40]

The pic of the head in post number 14 -
Is that after machining. What are all the pits?

 

[cruiserbrett]

Are you refering to the head gasket surface on the head? Its just dust. the light oil the machine shop wipes it down with is a magnet for dust.

 

[cruiserbrett]

Why wouldn't you want to do this step before the hot tank?

Yes, but not all machine shops will do this. In fact not a single 2F I have built ever came back with these plugs out, or replaced. I guess they just dont want to mess with removing them, since installing new ones and peening them inplace and not having them leak can be challenging.

 

[71FJ40]

Are you refering to the head gasket surface on the head? Its just dust. the light oil the machine shop wipes it down with is a magnet for dust.

OK - that makes sense
Otherwise I would have said that there are some issues with the head if it were that pitted.

 

[cruiserbrett]

Well, Good and bad news today...

Bad: Toyota apparently didnt care too much about a few thousandths when machining the cam shaft bores, since their assembly process most likely called for finish reaming of the bearings after install, so any discrepancy in bearing ID after install was corrected by the reaming... Two of the four cam bearing bores were undersized, one about .001" and the other .003"!!! Thats alot. Per the ACL bearing book, I honed them out to the min size on the spec range they give, and pressed in new bearings, and voila. cam fit.

On top of that little BS, ACL bearings are not all made mid week... The first set I got, two bearings went into in the same sized bores I pressed the second set into and the bearing ID was undersized. So after reinstalling the new bearings(after bore gauging the block hole and finding it was within range) the cam fit without any further work. SO, the bearings had a significant variation in sizing. BEWARE...

The GOOD:
The machine shop didnt charge me for the new bearings, or the work required to fix the block. The owner helped me out, taught me alot(honing, sizing etc), and gave me a few beers... and then told me not to worry about anything $$$ wise.

Aside from a timing cover backing plate gasket and a rear cam freeze plug it didnt cost to much to learn to always check that out!

 

[cruiserbrett]

Here are a few pics of the not so fun process of cleaning the block for the second time. Now that there was sticky assembly lube on the motor, and the grit from honing the cam bearing bores, it took some time.

you can see that I liberally rinse it with simple green and water, and scrub all passages and surfaces with the brushes.

Also a pic of the tools of the trade. I got the bore brushes from Summitracing.com, and the other stuff is general house cleaning stuff.

Rinse with water, and blow dry with the compressor. get all the water out of the bolt holes too.

Wipe down machined surfaces with a rag with motor oil or wd40. Includes the cylinder bores too.

 

[cruiserbrett]

Back at assembly after a good cleaning, and TEST FITTING OF THE CAM...


So, re cleaning of the crank, block etc is done. I added some more pics of a few things I think are important...

When cleaning the oil passages in the crank, it is easier to start the small brush at the rod bearing end of the oil passage since the main journal on this vintage crank has a step drilled in it, and makes it tough to get the brush into the long passage.

Main caps: pics of where I put a good sealant on them to make sure oil doesnt seep out of the joint.

 

[cruiserbrett]

Now that the crank is in(didnt feel like posting more pics of the same thing shown earlier in the thread) its time to install the timing cover backing plate. This is a source of a lot of leaks on both used and rebuilt motors since folks dont seal it up properly.

1: Use the OEM toyota gasket here. It is much nicer than the Felpro gaskets and is made of a denser paper with the rubber ridges printed on it(Felpro has this too)

2: Use sealer(I use Permatex "the right stuff" here since it is much better at actually adhering to the block and plate.) follow the rubber pattern printed on the gasket on both sides. smear it down and dont use alot beacuse it might squish out and clog the cam squirter, since the gasket is what seals the oil passage for it.

3: If you are not immediately installing the cam, timing cover and balancer, I like to install the timing cover bolts now(without the sealer you will use later) to properly hold the plate to the block and front main cap while the sealer sets up.

4: Stake the Torx(or slotted screws) with a pointy punch before installing the cam/gear. you dont want these backing out!!!

 

[Magnum44]

Nice Job! I don't remember having any problems building my first 2f but I didn't go to the same lengths you did. I will be building a 292 Chevy for my cruiser and want to have it balanced/blueprinted and am contemplating grinding out any imperfections and using Glyptal on the head and block. I am also considering Cryogenics. Ever used this? BTW, nice job!

 

[cruiserbrett]

I dont know if glyptal on the 2F would be of much help, since there is really not that much oil getting up top.

I think balancing is a must. These motors are low reving motors, but it helps with wear and tear, and makes the idle soooo smooth. to the point that properly tuned you can barely tell they are running in the cab.

As for cryogenics, I dunno. I would be afraid of any heat/cold treating process b/c of core shift, but if your willing to check main bore alignment and block squareness after, go for it.


Got the cam in, but since it was a one man operation the other night only before and after pics.

1: install thrust plate and cam gear. check thrust clearance with feeler as shown earlier in thread.

2: clean any storage oil/wax/whatever off the cam and liberally apply the cam lube. This isnt a schnieder cam, but I used their lube for the cam and lifters. Its a pretty thick grease, and the little plastic container has more than enough to coat all the lobes all the way around and the lifter mating surfaces.

3: Lube the cam bearings with regular assembly lube.

4: Roll the crank shaft over to a position you can get your hand down along side it to help guide the cam into the bearings without banging the lobes all over the bearings.

5: Take your time inserting the cam. I like to get it in far enough each time to rest a bearing journal on the bearings in the block, so about 1/3 of the way each time I reposition the crank. The middle section is a pain if you installed the oil pump mounting block...FYI.

6: Just as the cam is about to slide into the last bearing, rest it gently on the bearings, and line up the timing marks. On this motor, the crank gear was the TEQ logo, and the cam gear has the dot.

7: Insert the rest of the way, double check the alignment and then install the two thrust plate bolts. Torque to specs and your done.

8: CHECK oil squirter hole alignment. The one on this motor was off by what seemed like about 30 degrees.

 

[jfz80]

Great thread Brett!!! and awesome timing as my block is at the shop and im awaiting the seal kit for reassembly. Ive been reading the manual over and over but its great to see it in picture form and from a different perspective. cheers!

 

[PabloCruise]

An important thing for folks to remember is that bottoming out the threads of the oil squirter can pull the plate away from the block, resulting in an oil leak.

Don't ask me how I know!

You can either shorten the threaded portion of the squirter, or screw it in until it is aligned and then stake it.

 

[cruiserbrett]

An important thing for folks to remember is that bottoming out the threads of the oil squirter can pull the plate away from the block, resulting in an oil leak.

Don't ask me how I know!

You can either shorten the threaded portion of the squirter, or screw it in until it is aligned and then stake it.

True! I actually had to take the grinder to mine, b/c it was protruding from the plate more than the thickness of the gasket. So, I flushed it up with the flap disc and cleaned it out... forgot about that bit, since I did it a while back.


Marshall: Got Nibs. just not as prominent as later ones. I think they must be vents for the gases in the mold when the cast iron is poured.