Builds 1973 FJ 40 Build,Vortec,NV4500,Atlas,Diamond (1 Viewer)

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you’ll be pointing it up more than 7 degrees then i imagine. i’m assuming at this point you haven’t mocked that up?
 
Edited: I would agree with you Franklin, based upon my setup anyway. My axle guy says 7* maximum, but he warranties his parts, so I'm assuming that is to reduce his risk. Maybe you can go more with a relocated plug or overfilling. For our builds, a high pinion would help a lot. Seems to be a balancing act to make the parts work together the best from an operational and service life perspective. I plan on mocking up my axle and suspension before I finish welding the drivetrain, just in case I gotta back the train up. My current thought is to start at 5-7 degrees on the pinion, go to full droop and check for binding of the DS. If it does, adjust from there. I plan on using a double cardan DS and moving my rear axle back also. I would rather wear out DS joints than the pinion. I'm a novice though, so my methodology may be wrong......
 
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I did some checks quite a while ago but only had the axle housing without the 3rd in it so it was kind of a guesstimation. As I recall my set up was very close to Chicago and so figured I’d be ok. But with maybe 10degrees as a max and a filler plug and double cardan. If I can do 5-7 then all the better
 
@White Stripe that’s true. i could probably point it straight at the transfer case. my bigger question is will the two of us using this set up “need” a double cardan or will a parallel pinion to transfer case set up work. i fear it’s too steep.
Depends on your drive shaft operating angle I guess if u want to run single ujoints. My drivetrain is pretty short so I don't have double cardin. The driveshaft angle isn't that steep on mine.
 
you’ll be pointing it up more than 7 degrees then i imagine. i’m assuming at this point you haven’t mocked that up?

A bit more info. Just ordered up my rear housing from Diamond. Discussed the pinion angles. The filler will be relocated just a bit, but he was saying he's run his own rig up to 25˚ with no issues. The oil will "climb" a bit, also called oil roping. But I think 10-15˚ is easy
 
So, can anyone weigh on these cone washers please? As you can see, they don't all fit in the same. The detail pic of the washers shows that the washers are not even exactly the same. So I'm wondering if I got a lemon set of cone washers, or are they just this way? Will they all mash down just fine after torqued? They came from Cruiser Outfitters. I'll have to look at the arms closer too to see if the holes are all the same.
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The things Cruiserheads do to git her done. Solo diff stabbing. This has an ARB stuffed in it so there’s that air tube to worry about. Unlike a stock housing, with the Diamond, you’re unable to take off the rear cover for a peek to see that all is well. The housing kept rotating in the stands so some rubber and ratchet straps to act as my assistant. Now I get to wait for a long time to find out out if I messed up that tube. A word to wise for a Diamond housing folks
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Newbie questions. Hoping someone can chime in here. First front axle set up for me so... I'm wondering about 3 things. See pics

1) Outer bearing race fit on knuckle balls- they are fully seated and as shown in pic they protrude from the knuckle ball just a wee bit. Does that look right?
2) On my post #246, shows cone washers. I've returned those and ordered up OEM. But still wondering if that's how they'll look just sitting in there before torquing everything up?
3) How tight do the steering arms fit in to the bearings? Just trying to check everything out on the bench and the bearing does not really want to go on by hand, so I figure it'll be worse during assembly. Best measurements with my cheap calipers show about right- 25mm on the bearing inner race and about 24.95 or so on the pin.

Edit: all just newbie stuff, everything went together just fine

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For Diamond housing guys n gals.

Turns out the SST for knuckle centering does not work as it is for these housings. The inner diameter of the housing behind the inner seal is smaller and the scribe portion of SST won't fit in- probably due to the Diamond being .375" wall as well as using their new billet knuckle balls. So I am going to try and see if I can have a machine shop make me another outer sleeve specific for Diamond and keep the original sleeve for stock stuff. It's only about 007" difference so...

Another thing that I did not foresee was I thought it would be cool to have Marlins 25mm pins. Well now the 17mm stock rod on the SST is too small. So I will figure out a couple bushings or something to take up the gap. Then I'll be set for these Diamond housings.
 
You could use second set of front calipers for the best parking brake ever.
Are those new wheel bearing hubs? They look shiny.
 

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