EscapeWagon62
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- #341
Orienting the oil seal worked.
Builds The Escape Wagon Restoration (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter EscapeWagon62
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orangefj45
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Righton! Glad we were able to help
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #343
Still leak free
4WD light stopped working again. Ordered in a replacement switch in case we had buggered the other one during the install. Turned out we did (probably mashed the wires where they exit the switch making the connection inconsistent)
Bench tested the replacement then test fired it on the vehicle before the swap. All good now.
4WD light stopped working again. Ordered in a replacement switch in case we had buggered the other one during the install. Turned out we did (probably mashed the wires where they exit the switch making the connection inconsistent)
Bench tested the replacement then test fired it on the vehicle before the swap. All good now.
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #344
Also - a follow up to the oil separator/ oil can setup.
Definitely less water (macchiato) after the oil change.
If I were to do it again I would probably put in a larger unit. 3 hours of highway driving a d my can will be at 3/4 full (About 2oz?) Not a huge issue but a larger unit would be nice.
It is nice to know I’m keeping my air intake cleaner.
Definitely less water (macchiato) after the oil change.
If I were to do it again I would probably put in a larger unit. 3 hours of highway driving a d my can will be at 3/4 full (About 2oz?) Not a huge issue but a larger unit would be nice.
It is nice to know I’m keeping my air intake cleaner.
Cool. Are those switches still available new?
EscapeWagon62
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- #346
I think so but pricey.
I paid roughly $30 at CruiserParts. It’s such a simple switch (detent ball) I wasn’t too worried about getting one used.
EscapeWagon62
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- #347
Ok. It was 17 degrees today and my idle hung up (1,000-1,200 RPM)
Quick check under the hood and once again it’s the dash pot.
Found a thread by lambcrusher where he experienced this after his auto-manual swap.
I’ll shorten the adjuster screw on the dashpot so it no longer functions and see how it feels.
forum.ih8mud.com
Quick check under the hood and once again it’s the dash pot.
Found a thread by lambcrusher where he experienced this after his auto-manual swap.
I’ll shorten the adjuster screw on the dashpot so it no longer functions and see how it feels.
FJ62 Dashpot
is it needed after a manual transmission conversion? Mine seems to be getting stuck- even after removing the filter- and I want to just delete it so it's one less part to buy.....thank you.
forum.ih8mud.com
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Is the issue that the springs on the throttle body are spec’d to deal with both the throttle and kickdown cables and once you go manual there is too little pull back so it hangs up?Ok. It was 17 degrees today and my idle hung up (1,000-1,200 RPM)
Quick check under the hood and once again it’s the dash pot.
Found a thread by lambcrusher where he experienced this after his auto-manual swap.
I’ll shorten the adjuster screw on the dashpot so it no longer functions and see how it feels.
FJ62 Dashpot
is it needed after a manual transmission conversion? Mine seems to be getting stuck- even after removing the filter- and I want to just delete it so it's one less part to buy.....thank you.
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #349
That is my assumption.
The throttle body is clean, no issues with movement whatsoever.
I think it’s just the spring being calibrated for tension of the kickdown cable in addition to the accelerator cable.
It’s an easy adjustment to make and relatively easy to pull the whole dashpot if needed. The dashpot itself functions fine though I’m sure I could reduce the resistance by pulling it apart, cleaning and lubing.
Who knows
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #350
New bumpers and bolts have arrived!
Still can‘t believe they are available through a dealership.
Still can‘t believe they are available through a dealership.
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #351
Quick update on idle and oil catch can
- Adjusting the screw on the dash pot has solved the hanging up/high idle situation.
- I do like having an oil catch can. The K-Motor version I’m using requires you to unscrew the bottom to drain. It was an absolute pain to do this where I located it. I got some length of fuel line and re-installed it over by the smog pump so it’ll be easier to do. After my oil change I’m getting mostly oil and don’t have to drain it at often. Overall - all good.
- Adjusting the screw on the dash pot has solved the hanging up/high idle situation.
- I do like having an oil catch can. The K-Motor version I’m using requires you to unscrew the bottom to drain. It was an absolute pain to do this where I located it. I got some length of fuel line and re-installed it over by the smog pump so it’ll be easier to do. After my oil change I’m getting mostly oil and don’t have to drain it at often. Overall - all good.
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #352
Minor (non-greasy) work.
The windows had been getting slower. Read another thread about replacing the old window channel rubber with flocked (felt) channel rubber. OUTSTANDING RESULTS! The windows move a ton faster now and I don’t have to worry about over-stressing the motors.
I also replaced the door handle cups as they were all cracked a d thew in new brake and clutch pedal pads.
The windows had been getting slower. Read another thread about replacing the old window channel rubber with flocked (felt) channel rubber. OUTSTANDING RESULTS! The windows move a ton faster now and I don’t have to worry about over-stressing the motors.
I also replaced the door handle cups as they were all cracked a d thew in new brake and clutch pedal pads.
Was 50 feet of the flocked channel what you ordered to replace it on all four windows? What was the process? Did you have to remove the door cards? Thanks in advance!
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #354
Yes, I ordered 50ft and did all 4 doors. I have about 15 feet left over.
The process is as follows.
1. I removed the door cards (as I got better at it I found it wasn’t necessary but did help.
2. Mark the old c-channel at the top of the door sill on both the front and rear points on the rear doors and the rear part of the front door. Note that the front door is two piece and the rear doors are one continuous piece.I used a paint pen but a marker will do. That mark helps you know how much is pushed down into the door frame when you install the new stuff. Its hard to see down there.
3. Roll all windows down so that there is about 1 1/2 inches of window above the door sill. This will help you grab it and move it forward and backward. It helps quite a bit.
4. Remove the old C channel. You can use a screw driver but I used a dental pick to get part of it out of the channel then just pull and It comes out relatively easily.
5. Take the old C-channel and cut pieces to match the length of the old C-channel (a short and long for each front door, one long for each rear door.
6. Mark the new C-Channel at the doorsill line based on the marks you made in sep 2.
7. Mix a spray bottle with soap and water. Spray it down the window track at the door sill line so that it runs down into the door.
8. Spray the backside of the new cC-channel with soap and water.
9. Place the new rubber in the window track and push down into the door. It helps to move the window away from the track as I mentioned in step 3.
10. If if gets too hard to push, add more soapy water....it really helps. There are a couple places where the track itself can catch it, just pull back a half inch and push down again.
11. OEM stripping is molded with 90 degree turns and this isn‘t. Use a paint pen to mark the apex of the corner where the rubber sticks out, use scissors to make a 90 degree cut and it will line up perfectly. I’ve attached a photo for reference.
Very easy overall and intuitive once you get started. The more soapy water you use and window jiggling, the faster it goes.
Whole job including door card removal too me 1 1/2 hours.
EscapeWagon62
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- #356
I have zero electrical skills as displayed after my H55 swap.
Figured rubber with felt flocking was more my speed
From what I understand, they speed up even more after a bit of use. Even if they don’t I was shocked at the improvement.
Good luck.
Have been loving this thread even before the h55f swap. Thanks for all the great documentation!
I’ve read a ton of threads and parts list but wanted to confirm the list I compiled of used parts was all inclusive. Especially curious about what parts don’t need to be 85+.
I plan to keep the transfer case vacuum shift. This is what I’ve put together:
Also, did you buy a new or used clutch cover? It’s available new.
I’ve read a ton of threads and parts list but wanted to confirm the list I compiled of used parts was all inclusive. Especially curious about what parts don’t need to be 85+.
I plan to keep the transfer case vacuum shift. This is what I’ve put together:
| Used Parts: | 60 series year: |
| clutch fork | 85+ |
| clips for fork ends | 85+ |
| clutch fork hub | 85+ |
| 3F bell housing: 4/5 Speed Manual | 85+ |
| Flywheel | Any manual 60 series |
| inspection cover | 85+ |
| tranny cross member | 85+ |
| Transmission tunnel cover plate | Any manual 60 series |
| Driveshafts (if not modifying existing) | 85+ |
| Pedal bucket/pedals | Any manual 60 series |
| 31210-60070 Clutch Cover | ? |
Also, did you buy a new or used clutch cover? It’s available new.
EscapeWagon62
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- #358
thanks for the comments.
For the most part I think you have it nailed.
On the clutch, clutch cover and throwout bearing, clutch master and slave I used new parts (Aisin) which I got as a kit along with all of the used parts from cruiserparts.net.
Clutch fork hub should come attached to your used bellhousing
I also ordered a clutch cover rubber boot which mounts around the clutch fork opening in the bell housing.
Almost all of your list of 85+ is accurate as the bellhousing cants at an angle and all components have to match that.
YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE ABOUT THE CROSSMEMMBER - some say you can use the earlier one but it doesn’t work. Its hard to find (and expensive) the correct flat version but there are some aftermarket solutions. I sourced mine from SOR as cruiserparts didn’t have one.
YOU ALSO NEED -
1. the cross member isolator which is essentially the rear engine mount. Has to be for the 85+. Sometimes these come with the crossmember but not always. Relatively easy to source.
2. Hard and soft clutch lines. Not fun to install and there are some threads on a braided soft only solution.
3. In cabin Shift boot for the 5 speed, you can re-use the transfer case shift boot
4. If your pedal bucket came in like mine, you’ll need to re-paint, add brake pad cushions and pedal pads. You will also likely need the springs that keep them under tension.
When you get the used parts, clean out every bolt hole. I didn’t and sheared some bolts on my inspection cover mounting holes.
If I think of anything else I’ll let you know.
For the most part I think you have it nailed.
On the clutch, clutch cover and throwout bearing, clutch master and slave I used new parts (Aisin) which I got as a kit along with all of the used parts from cruiserparts.net.
Clutch fork hub should come attached to your used bellhousing
I also ordered a clutch cover rubber boot which mounts around the clutch fork opening in the bell housing.
Almost all of your list of 85+ is accurate as the bellhousing cants at an angle and all components have to match that.
YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE ABOUT THE CROSSMEMMBER - some say you can use the earlier one but it doesn’t work. Its hard to find (and expensive) the correct flat version but there are some aftermarket solutions. I sourced mine from SOR as cruiserparts didn’t have one.
YOU ALSO NEED -
1. the cross member isolator which is essentially the rear engine mount. Has to be for the 85+. Sometimes these come with the crossmember but not always. Relatively easy to source.
2. Hard and soft clutch lines. Not fun to install and there are some threads on a braided soft only solution.
3. In cabin Shift boot for the 5 speed, you can re-use the transfer case shift boot
4. If your pedal bucket came in like mine, you’ll need to re-paint, add brake pad cushions and pedal pads. You will also likely need the springs that keep them under tension.
When you get the used parts, clean out every bolt hole. I didn’t and sheared some bolts on my inspection cover mounting holes.
If I think of anything else I’ll let you know.
Can you clarify what shifter linkage you used? Did you keep the 4wd vacuum shift?
I was thinking I wouldn’t need a new one because I want to keep it vacuum shift. I realized I probably may need to change it just for the high/low function.
I was thinking I wouldn’t need a new one because I want to keep it vacuum shift. I realized I probably may need to change it just for the high/low function.
EscapeWagon62
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- Thread starter
- #360
Good catch.
I kept the vacuum activated.
You do need to modify (shorten) the length of the original one to work properly. I ended up ordering one from cruiserparts.net but several folks have modified them on their own.
It’s not a highly technical job but I just didn’t have time, experience, tools to do it myself.
on the bright side you can always complete the swap and figure out your linkage later unless you need 4WD day 1
Comparison photo shown below.
I kept the vacuum activated.
You do need to modify (shorten) the length of the original one to work properly. I ended up ordering one from cruiserparts.net but several folks have modified them on their own.
It’s not a highly technical job but I just didn’t have time, experience, tools to do it myself.
on the bright side you can always complete the swap and figure out your linkage later unless you need 4WD day 1
Comparison photo shown below.
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