Builds Zeke, the 1975 Wanderer and DD

[120mm]

I'm really pretty ignorant about suspension issues: But it looks like I need to get smart fast.

If the shackles are still up front, does this mean it hasn't had a shackle reversal done to it?

How can you tell for sure if a Cut and Turn has been done?

 

[PabloCruise]

Cut and turn can do a few things…
It can put more caster angle in your front end.
It can also point your pinion angle straight towards the T-case.

And yes, if you have shackles up front, no shackle reversal has been done.

 

[PabloCruise]

Have an alignment shop measure measure your caster angle and let us know.

Factory housings seem to have about 0 to 2 degrees, max.

 

[120mm]

I just found a thread where the PO describes having a turn and cut done. So "if" I want to return to an SUA I need another stock housing and a non high lift steering arm?

I'm about ready to rebuild the front axle and buy new tires anyway.

I've half a mind to find a different front axle with stock steering arm. I'm assuming I'd just flip the rear axle as it still has all the mount points.

I'd then drive it around as an SUA and see how I like that.

Is there something wrong with my thinking here?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I just found a thread where the PO describes having a turn and cut done. So "if" I want to return to an SUA I need another stock housing and a non high lift steering arm?

I'm about ready to rebuild the front axle and buy new tires anyway.

I've half a mind to find a different front axle with stock steering arm. I'm assuming I'd just flip the rear axle as it still has all the mount points.

I'd then drive it around as an SUA and see how I like that.

Is there something wrong with my thinking here?

No I don't see anything wrong with your thinking. I certainly wouldn't want a SOA configuration on a SUA vehicle. All those parts are not overly difficult to find. Don't marry the stock steering arm with the axle; they are likely to be found separately. I honestly don't know enough about a cut and turn to know how easily reversed it is. Certainly easier to find a stock assembly or even just a stock housing. Good luck.

 

[120mm]

So the next question: What housings will fit under my truck? Are all 40/55 housings pretty much the same, or do I need to look for a specific year/model?

How far off are 60 axles to 55 axles?

So I think I just got into the market for a front axle housing or front axle assembly, a stock steering arm and 4 stock-ish wheels and tires.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

So here are the front housing part numbers. I doubt there is much difference between the two but I'm not sure. I don't know which date split you fall into.

43110	HOUSING ASSY, FRONT AXLE
43110-60112	(10/1972 - 08/1975)
43110-60113	(09/1975 - 12/1978)

These numbers do not show an FJ40 application so, again, not sure the difference. Here are the numbers for the FJ40 front housing:

43110	HOUSING ASSY, FRONT AXLE
43110-60092	(10/1972 - 08/1975)
43110-60120	(09/1975 - 12/1978)

FJ55 Rear. Pretty sure you don't have a full floating rear so only one number to worry about.

42110	HOUSING ASSY, REAR AXLE
42110-60042
42110-60111	FOR FULL FLOATING AXLE

FJ40 Rear.

42110	HOUSING ASSY, REAR AXLE
42110-60023	(11/1971 - 12/1974)
42110-60024	(01/1975 - 06/1980)
42110-60071	FOR FULL FLOATING AXLE

 

[120mm]

So here are the front housing part numbers. I doubt there is much difference between the two but I'm not sure. I don't know which date split you fall into.

43110	HOUSING ASSY, FRONT AXLE
43110-60112	(10/1972 - 08/1975)
43110-60113	(09/1975 - 12/1978)

These numbers do not show an FJ40 application so, again, not sure the difference. Here are the numbers for the FJ40 front housing:

43110	HOUSING ASSY, FRONT AXLE
43110-60092	(10/1972 - 08/1975)
43110-60120	(09/1975 - 12/1978)

FJ55 Rear. Pretty sure you don't have a full floating rear so only one number to worry about.

42110	HOUSING ASSY, REAR AXLE
42110-60042
42110-60111	FOR FULL FLOATING AXLE

FJ40 Rear.

42110	HOUSING ASSY, REAR AXLE
42110-60023	(11/1971 - 12/1974)
42110-60024	(01/1975 - 06/1980)
42110-60071	FOR FULL FLOATING AXLE

Mine is a pre 9/75 model with a post 9/75 disc conversion, so the 10/72 - 9/75 housing 43110-60112 should work.

My rear isn't an issue; I believe the stock perches and shock mounts are still back there hanging out, and just needs to be flipped.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Mine is a pre 9/75 model with a post 9/75 disc conversion, so the pre 9/75 housing should work.

My rear isn't an issue; I believe the stock perches and shock mounts are still back there hanging out, and just needs to be flipped.

My guess is either housing will work. I didn't post the rears at first but went ahead since the info was handy.

 

[tucker74]

I did this on an FJ40, most of the time you can leave the hi-steer setup (depending how it was done) but you’ll have to address the cut & turn. The latter is done to address the caster or steering angle to road. Depending on how much it was turned, you could be able to get away with using caster wedges used to correct SUA angle installed backwards. What I did was traded the axle with someone who was going SOA, but you could find a donor axle as well.

Good luck!

Tucker

 

[scrapdaddy]

The FJ60 axle is roughly 3" wider (total) than the 55. Problem then is you have to change out the back to make it look right. You might consider the 70 series axles for a full float rear, but if selling it I wouldn't bother.

 

[samc2447]

The 40/45/55 housings are the same width. So are 70 series - but the perches are not in the right spot and need to be removed and re-welded in the right spot.

Reversing the SOA can be done relatively easy if you're handy and the PO didn't move spring hangers. If you're serious about doing it PM me, I've got a few 40 axle sets and I'd gladly swap a set of housings with you.

 

[tucker74]

Things you don't think about (or at least I didn't):

• Gonna need new u-bolts, these are designed to stretch and will most likely be buggered taking off.
• Have to drop at least one end of springs to get axles out, will need new bushings and likely new shackles/pins. If you've ever replaced you know what I'm talking about.
• Gonna need new shocks, the SOA will be too long

Taking all this into account, you basically need a lift kit ... re-arching only saves you the springs and you'll be paying to have them arched.

Tucker

 

[120mm]

Looks like the front spring hanger was moved back an inch. Don't know how that affects going back to an SUA.

 

[tucker74]

Those look stock, that’s a factory rivet at the rear that can’t be duplicated, the front shackle hangers were welded and look to be in the stock position. Those shackles look beefy, can prolly get away with just bushings.

Tucker

 

[120mm]

Those look stock, that’s a factory rivet at the rear that can’t be duplicated, the front shackle hangers were welded and look to be in the stock position. Those shackles look beefy, can prolly get away with just bushings.

Tucker

I just assumed the two holes on the frame should align with the two holes on the shackle hangers and would be riveted as well.

So that's good news.

Problem is, I'm now pushed into a corner. The front axle needs rebuilt, and the front tires are getting thin.

For complicated reasons, I'm income restricted for the next year and a half, and I need to be driving this thing occasionally during that time.

I don't want to rebuild the front axle twice, or buy new 35s just to replace them soon, so it would seem that now would be a great time to put it back to SUA.

Im wondering how awful it would be to do the SUA restore and leave the springs "as is". I'd rebuild the axle using the new housing. New smaller tires and wheels would cost about as much as replacing the 35s.

im going to continue patching rust, as I own several sheets of 19 guage and welder. Just need the weather to cooperate.

 

[tucker74]

You might be able to get away with shims on your current, do some searching on measuring caster and see where you are

 

[61twpw]

I’m about 5 hours from you. I could probably part with one of my SUA front ends. Could possibly do a road trip down to deliver it. Need to meet up with MudDauber from Atlanta to deliver his 8274 in the near future. Just an idea. I recently bought new stock steel wheels from local dealer. Four of them were around $500.

 

[120mm]

I’m about 5 hours from you. I could probably part with one of my SUA front ends. Could possibly do a road trip down to deliver it. Need to meet up with MudDauber from Atlanta to deliver his 8274 in the near future. Just an idea. I recently bought new stock steel wheels from local dealer. Four of them were around $500.

I'm for sure going with stock steel wheels. It's the best deal out there. I also found 4 of them for around $500.

I'll PM you about the SUA front end.

 

[120mm]

You might be able to get away with shims on your current, do some searching on measuring caster and see where you are

As it stands, on level ground, I measured a 6 degree negative caster ('m wrong about this; it's 6 degree POSITIVE caster and I correct it in the next post) using the flat of the steering arm on top of the birfield joint. If I understand what I'm measuring, and if the four bolts on top of and the bottom of the hub are perpendicular to the pivot line of the steering.

Additionally, the third member is tilted forward 10 degrees, but I don't know what that has to do with anything. But I bet if you knew the stock angles, you could tell how much the PO had it turned when it was cut.