Build Zeke, the 1975 Wanderer and DD

[120mm]

As it stands, on level ground, I measured a 6 degree negative caster using the flat of the steering arm on top of the birfield joint. If I understand what I'm measuring, and if the four bolts on top of and the bottom of the hub are perpendicular to the pivot line of the steering.

Additionally, the third member is tilted forward 10 degrees, but I don't know what that has to do with anything. But I bet if you knew the stock angles, you could tell how much the PO had it turned when it was cut.

Or is that positive caster? Looking from the inside of the wheel, the Kingpin axis is leaning BACK.

Stole this from another post. Yes, Virginia, it's 6 degrees POSITIVE caster.

 

[bobm]

I’m about 5 hours from you. I could probably part with one of my SUA front ends. Could possibly do a road trip down to deliver it. Need to meet up with MudDauber from Atlanta to deliver his 8274 in the near future. Just an idea. I recently bought new stock steel wheels from local dealer. Four of them were around $500.

Bill da Man

 

[tucker74]

Stock caster was +1, the shim will correct for 4 degrees so you’d still be off . Axle swap looks like you’re best bet -

Tucker

 

[120mm]

Stock caster was +1, the shim will correct for 4 degrees so you’d still be off . Axle swap looks like you’re best bet -

Tucker

A little bird told me that with power steering, you could go as far as +2 or +3 degrees.

But I'm still thinking axle swap, too.

 

[samc2447]

Your best bet is to swap the housing. Having the wrong caster will make the steering feel wrong and it won't return to center naturally. There is a noticeable difference driving a truck where the castor is incorrect.

What's the rear housing look like? Did they cut the perches and weld them on top? That will need to be reversed as well or swap in a fresh housing.

I agree with @tucker74 you should be able to get away with new bushings and u-bolts.

 

[61twpw]

Got your axle housing pulled and emptied today. Will let you know when it’s cleaned up.

 

[bobm]

Bills Awesome

 

[120mm]

Your best bet is to swap the housing. Having the wrong caster will make the steering feel wrong and it won't return to center naturally. There is a noticeable difference driving a truck where the castor is incorrect.

What's the rear housing look like? Did they cut the perches and weld them on top? That will need to be reversed as well or swap in a fresh housing.

I agree with @tucker74 you should be able to get away with new bushings and u-bolts.

The rear housing has two sets of shock mounts, top and bottom, and the perches are welded on top.

I'll obviously have to cut those and put them back on the bottom where they belong. Will get bushings and u-bolts ordered, as well as new wheels, shocks and tires.

I've found heavy duty Monroe shocks specifically built for the FJ55 fronts on Rock Auto. Doing a bit of research showed that the rears are pretty easy to find as they are basically FJ40s, but the fronts are weird.

More Information for MONROE 34954

www.rockauto.com

Wheels will be OEM from McGeorge Toyota at $125 a pop. I had no idea they were a) still available, and b) so reasonably priced.

Still thinking on tires. I'm going to make my tire selection reveal when I get everything back to stock configuration.

​

 

[61twpw]

My wheels here in Missouri were discounted 5% because I bought 4. Might ask them?

 

[120mm]

My wheels here in Missouri were discounted 5% because I bought 4. Might ask them?

I will. Lord knows McGeorge gets a piece of me anytime any of our 4 (current) Toyotas need work.

 

[120mm]

Quick question: Where do folks generally get their U-Bolts for the pigs?

Another sniggly detail I have never considered before....

 

[120mm]

Just measured my U-bolts, and the rear ones and the outside front ones "look" about 3 1/2" x 3/8" The inside U-bolts look more 4" x 3/8".

Does this seem about right?

 

[61twpw]

Here are the ones from my stock 73. They are 1/2” diameter, hope this helps.

 

[120mm]

Here are the ones from my stock 73. They are 1/2” diameter, hope this helps.

View attachment 2906183

View attachment 2906184

So the long one is 4 inches, center to center, and I assume goes right next to the third member on the short side.

I'm wondering if the short one is the same width, center to center?

 

[tucker74]

Mark’s off-road sells a nice set, have also had a local shop make me a set.

Catalogue Page 17

enter a description here

marksoffroad.net

130-09C U-BOLT SET, H.D. 64.95

Best to call -

Cheers!
Tucker

 

[120mm]

All the places I could find advertise rear u-bolts. Are the fronts different somehow?

I'm looking at the front right U-bolt nearest to the pumpkin, and it looks much bigger than the rest.

(Edited to add: I'm just going to wait until I have the front housing in hand and then get U-bolts to fit.

 

[61twpw]

I’ll bring you the ones I took off for reference.

 

[120mm]

That'll work.

 

[Megadoomer]

I don't think you will be doing a lot of off road but it might be a good time to get the u-bolt flip kit that puts the bolts on top.

4PlusProducts | FJ40 | Suspension Parts | U-Bolt Flip Kit

The ultimate kit for U-bolt protection and ground clearance on spring under axle equipped 40 series Land Cruisers.

www.4plusproducts.com

 

[120mm]

Spent some quality time today with Zeke, my dog Lela and the Land Between the Lakes National park. It's a great place to off road 40 min from my house, and this is the first time I took my pig out there to play. There is a designated ORV area but the trails throughout the park are actually cooler.