Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (8 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Okay sounds plausible. I thought about trying to pull the breather but w/o having read anything on it I didn’t want to f it up.
I’ll look for the tcase fill plug and go from there.

There's nothing to mess up, they're super simple devices and just screwed in. If it is stuck you can likely just soak it in something lightly caustic (carb cleaning dip) and then blow it out.
 
The vent is a press fit not threaded. There is not a check ball it is a little rubber or felt coated plastic bit that covers the hole via spring tension. When I rebuild the cases I always just pull the valve off and tap the case for a small barbed fitting and run a hose up into the engine compartment with a cheap fuel filter on it as a "filtered" vent. The best way to test it is push some (a whole bunch) of compressed air into the filler hole and see it you feel it escape the vent. I have had good luck just shooting a bunch of parts cleaner on it.
 
The little cap? I can get my hand in there but seeing it once I’m touching it is another matter altogether.
 
The vent is a press fit not threaded. There is not a check ball it is a little rubber or felt coated plastic bit that covers the hole via spring tension. When I rebuild the cases I always just pull the valve off and tap the case for a small barbed fitting and run a hose up into the engine compartment with a cheap fuel filter on it as a "filtered" vent. The best way to test it is push some (a whole bunch) of compressed air into the filler hole and see it you feel it escape the vent. I have had good luck just shooting a bunch of parts cleaner on it.
Thanks. That’s good advice. I appreciate the explanation!
 
The vent is a press fit not threaded. There is not a check ball it is a little rubber or felt coated plastic bit that covers the hole via spring tension. When I rebuild the cases I always just pull the valve off and tap the case for a small barbed fitting and run a hose up into the engine compartment with a cheap fuel filter on it as a "filtered" vent. The best way to test it is push some (a whole bunch) of compressed air into the filler hole and see it you feel it escape the vent. I have had good luck just shooting a bunch of parts cleaner on it.
Thanks for correcting me on this, I was going off my experience with my other LC's, apparently the 60 is different.
 
The vent is a press fit not threaded. There is not a check ball it is a little rubber or felt coated plastic bit that covers the hole via spring tension. When I rebuild the cases I always just pull the valve off and tap the case for a small barbed fitting and run a hose up into the engine compartment with a cheap fuel filter on it as a "filtered" vent. The best way to test it is push some (a whole bunch) of compressed air into the filler hole and see it you feel it escape the vent. I have had good luck just shooting a bunch of parts cleaner on it.

I recommend and do this mod ever since the axle mounted vent on the rear of my Taco corroded shut, causing pressure build up and puking oil all over my rear brakes. So out comes the little vent-cap and replaced with a hose run high in the vehicle with a 1/4" lawn mover style fuel filter on the end to keep the spiders out. Not that I ever ford 30" of water but I still don't want water getting sucked in there.

I know the axles on my 62 have barb fittings with hoses going up but apparently the xfer and trans have vents mounted right on the housing? Seems it would be all one or the other.
 
Looks like this might be on the agenda as well... my tcase filler plug looks pretty tweaked.
Stripped threads on transfer filler hole
My assistant was ready to catch! Can’t do much now till he’s napping. And rain is coming later today thru tmrw so not sure how far I’ll get.
Can someone explain to me how exactly the bypass hose works for the tcase to the trans?

63258EC0-BA61-4C00-B744-B3E9FBDEC4E6.jpeg


438EB3D6-940E-41B8-84FC-A1B0CD78E213.jpeg


6E410583-9944-4D5D-9903-5568DBA2DCAB.jpeg
 
Yeesh.

The idea with the bypass is that the excess gearoil is 'pushed' out the filler of the Trans and migrates by gravity to the filler of the Xfer, to keep things bathed in gearoil.

The bypass kit should have fittings to replace that 'solution' fillplug.

Good job with the ppe for the kid!

Edit to add: you may have already seen this
Transmission to Transfer Case Bypass Hose

Landcruiser G/Box-T/Case Oil Leak Fix
 
Last edited:
Thread stripped in Xfer case?
May need to investigate further, helicoil or timesert in damaged thread to get new fitting seated.
 
clean the grease off that t-case with some brake clean in a can and a nylon brush. After you clean it and wipe it off, you will be able to see where your leakage is coming from. That plug is looking like a homemade job. Not sure how easy it will be for you to get it back in there. Looks kinda like the old boat drain plugs. When you tighten they expand to seal. So the object is to hold the rubber part and don't let it turn while you screw the nut down.
 
If your's is like mine was you should have 3 good threads in the back of the hole where the stock plug can't get to. If this is the case Wit's end plug will help you.
 
Ideal would be to remove that "thing" and inspect
I wonder if opening the PTO cover might help? (probably need to have a gasket on hand)
:banana:
 
Fel,

What happens most of the time is that when the trans/transfer case seal begins to leak, the transfer case mysteriously pumps its fluid up through the seal into the transmission. The transfer case runs dry and the transmission gets full to the top with gear oil. On rare occasions (not the norm), the trans runs empty and the transfer gets overfilled.

By connecting the fill plugs of both the trans and transfer case with a hose, the overfilled transmission can essentially trickle the excess gear oil back into the transfer case. The bypass does work. Technically it is not a permanent solution or even a "fix" because the problem is still there. It's a great long term work-around though and sure beats losing your transfer case to oil starvation. The real fix is to replace the seal which requires taking the case apart. Mission creep dictates that the transfer case might as well get rebuilt in the process.

That rubber boat plug is a big red flag. You might run into a problem there with stripped threads as @g-man said, but it has to come out so no time like the present to find out.
 
Last edited:
That rubber boat plug is a big red flag. You might run into a problem there with stripped threads as @g-man said, but it has to come out so no time like the present.

Maybe - Maybe not. Fel's DD was down a few weeks back and she ended up DDing the Cruiser. That plug is a can of worms that needs addressed but I literally wouldn't pull the plug without a firm plan in place. Kind of like making sure you can get the oil fill plug loose before you pull the drain plug.

She might need the Cruiser to go through some deep water the next couple days based on the forecast I'm seeing. This all assumes it's driveable right now I lost track.
 
Maybe - Maybe not. Fel's DD was down a few weeks back and she ended up DDing the Cruiser. That plug is a can of worms that needs addressed but I literally wouldn't pull the plug without a firm plan in place. Kind of like making sure you can get the oil fill plug loose before you pull the drain plug.

She might need the Cruiser to go through some deep water the next couple days based on the forecast I'm seeing. This all assumes it's driveable right now I lost track.

Yeah. In that case waiting might be a good thing. Hopefully she will luck out and the threads will be fine. You know, the fill plugs are notorious for rounding off and becoming almost impossible to remove. Maybe the PO buggered up the fill plug and was too lazy to find a replacement so he chose the redneck replacement instead. The case threads could still be fine. I guess we will see.
 
You know, the fill plugs are notorious for rounding off and becoming almost impossible to remove.
Someone here on MUD posted about using a 15/16" socket with the end ground/filed flat to get a better bite on fill and drain plugs, at least for the plugs with 24mm heads.
 
Since it is the filler plug, and the gearoil is probably low in the Xfer, it isn't leaking, oil should be at bottom of threads.
If needed immediately /dailydriver I would top off the oil in the Xfer and reuse plug.
 
Ok so real quick before I read all ya comments. I’ve cleaned the top of the case pretty good. Tad angst when one bolts washers spin freely... (pix below I’m pointing to it).
Breather I cleaned well but haven’t tried prying up the cap. Need to be more reassured I won’t simply break it and be screwed. Brake cleaned the underside pretty good and that plug looks like friggen crap ass. I’ve not tried to unscrew it yet. Texts w/ Georg earlier and he simply said tap it for a 1/2” pipe fitting. I left him a message cuz I wasn’t too clear if that’s on the truck or off.
Drained out basically a 1/2 gallon of fluid from the trans. Plug that is in there is a magnetic one and def had a layer of shavings on it. Did my best to clean it and waited till the stream pretty much stopped and plugged her back up.
And I now stink. I chuckle at what my kid relates me to when it comes to scents. Used to be patchouli and now it’s truck fluids!

264C4707-B987-4457-9463-D18F8AACAE36.jpeg


24C02F8B-B550-4EE8-90C6-369F10BEEB04.jpeg
 
If your's is like mine was you should have 3 good threads in the back of the hole where the stock plug can't get to. If this is the case Wit's end plug will help you.
I ordered two of @NLXTACY, Joeys plugs last night.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom