Yes I'm sure they're connected. Same goes for the ones stolen before the thread. :) I actually address your line of thinking in that thread, right up top. Agree to disagree, I guess. (But, just in case you're right, my next post will be about...
It's very VERY common for the weld under the down-pipe flange to have a small crack. Warm up the engine and use a telescoping mirror to check the back of the pipe welds for a hairline crack. Also, check to make sure the pipe flange is not...
The main difference between the air injection system and the EGR system is that the air injection system pushes air into the exhaust ports and or the exhaust pipe in front of the cat. It works with the OC system (cat) to convert NOx and CO into...
If you use the springs in the MSD kit that is referenced in my recurve post, you will need to set the timing with more initial advance than normal. Mine is set with the BB just below the sight window. I'd guess it is 15 degrees or so initial...
probably will still want to advance it a bit more. you may have to experiment with this. I think @roadstr6 mentioned advancing until the bb was out of the site window.
I was going to see if the pin bushing was grenaded. I didn’t think of doing the springs. But I guess while I’m in there and a desmog is around the corner. Might be a good move!
There are 46 small ball bearings inside the breaker plate assembly. Disassemble the breaker plate if it doesn't rotate freely. Clean all the parts (I rinse the ball bearings in a small glass jar using carb/throttle body cleaner), apply grease in...
They are in the breaker plate. You have to pull the 4 clips off and open it up. it's hollow ...2 plates with space between them and the bearings run around the inside lip in the groove.
Are you going to replace the springs with lighter set...
Have you tried bypassing the EGR? Pull and cap the vac line from the (metal) EGR valve to the (plastic) EGR vacuum modulator. Make sure to swap the two vac lines at the distributor vacuum advance, so that you don’t run too much advance while the...
Consider ordering the bottom oring that seals the dizzy to the engine, your's is probably brick hard and will crumble on reassembly. Also get the large o ring seal that goes between the cap and the housing. Both are still available from Toyota.
dizzy work outline:
1. remove the spark plugs wires and vent hoses from the cap
2. remove the cap (3 screws on the edges will get it off)
3. orient the rotor so it's pointing at a specific spark plug or 10mm bolt on the side cover plate and...
You say it turned "a bit" with the transmission. But then it stopped? Like froze again? Agreed turning by hand would be safer. If it froze again or maybe it never really turned ??? then put some ATF down the plug holes and let it sit to free...
I'm not a fan of those oblong "torque to fit" nuts. If you tighten them down you can strip the stud. Or strip the stud when you try to remove them. Then you're really struggling to get the stud out. Especially if it's been in there a while...
I just went through my entire exhaust dilemma and I feel for you. I took it to the muffler shop for the flange. They found one stud hole at the flange was 1/2 way stripped so they decided to drill and re-tap it with standard thread:mad:. And...
The flange can get warped or pulled out of it's flatness by overtightening the stud nuts. I bought a new flange (ebay I think) and had it made to a pipe at an muffler shop to solve the problem. A fix that helped for a few years was to double...
Post up some wide angle images of your engine, vacuum lines etc, both sides. Far enough away to see everything. Maybe we can pick something out that is connected wrong or missing etc.
I'd hold off on pulling the dizzy. You are not sure about stabbing it back correctly and you don't want to add to any timing issues until you resolve the one you have. AND...I'm pretty sure a lot of us have run for years with the stop pin...
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