Builds What's a Parts Guy to Do?? (7 Viewers)

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Also, a shout out to Georg for answering my stupid xfer case questions and to Poser for answering some stupid questions too... Cruiserdrew is another expert who has helped immensely... I appreciate their patience with this newbie.

:cheers:

Onur, I had a professor in college tell me something I have never forgotten. "The only stupid question is the one you don't ask."
 
There is no way you can install that new piece of jewelry you've created with the 2F into an engine bay looking like THAT!
I see another trip to the powder coater for the exhaust shield and some unpleasant days ahead stripping and painting the frame.

Don't be letting us down now...We expect nothing short of perfection!

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As for the bottom end. Check con rod clearances with plastic gauge. Mic the journals. If out of spec, yes, as hesitant, I wold pull the block out send to machine shop. If in spec and low oil pressure and scratches on con rod shells, replace with factory new. Do a torque wrench turn of the crank before and after to compare values. BTW, does anyone know if specs claim a max torque on dampener bot to see how much drag is acceptable on crankshaft?
 
If you can post a pic Jim, that would be great. I am having a hard time remembering. :lol: It will help me and others sir.

:cheers:

Jim was eluding to clip on bottom back of lifter cover to hold harness from trans/transfer.

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As for the bottom end. Check con rod clearances with plastic gauge. Mic the journals. If out of spec, yes, as hesitant, I wold pull the block out send to machine shop. If in spec and low oil pressure and scratches on con rod shells, replace with factory new. Do a torque wrench turn of the crank before and after to compare values. BTW, does anyone know if specs claim a max torque on dampener bot to see how much drag is acceptable on crankshaft?


The bottom end is already assembled. It was professionally assembled by my machine shop.
 
There is no way you can install that new piece of jewelry you've created with the 2F into an engine bay looking like THAT!
I see another trip to the powder coater for the exhaust shield and some unpleasant days ahead stripping and painting the frame.

Don't be letting us down now...We expect nothing short of perfection!

View attachment 1001774


Oh, don't worry. That's already in the works. :)
 
it's too quiet; I can't hear it.....when are you going to do something with it?
 
Looks fantastic Onur! Can't wait to see it in person one of these days.
 
I'll probably get flamed for this.
Re: splitcase reassembly:
In my experience I have learned to put a little bit of sealant on one side of a paper gasket and a skim of oil on the other during reassembly. I have done so on the t-cases I have been through as well as countless motorcycle side covers. Makes disassembly and trail repairs go far more efficiently if necessary in the future.
 
Have you discussed Book 7 of Plato's "Republic": Allegory of the Cave?

;)[/QUOTE]

One of the most important lessons ever taught, applicable in so many every day situations. Yes, I majored in philosophy.
 
Just checked: Discontinued sir. Aftermarket would be your option.
Denso OE fit condenser is available from Rockauto for $125. Anybody thinking about it should get one while it's still available.
 
Jim was eluding to clip on bottom back of lifter cover to hold harness from trans/transfer.

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Bingo! That's the clip I was alluding to. The clip that is eluding Onur at the moment.
 
Thrust washer behind the bearing race on the rear retainer.

View attachment 1001714
That is actually a shim that sets total preload/play in the output shaft bearings. Use that same shim when reassembling and the preload should be very close to correct. from there it is easy to go up or down a PN to get correct preload

I have the Toyota tranny/xfer gasket and seal kit. Some of it will be used, but most I am going to donate to ACC for their assistance.
It is not very complete actually--I could add at least 6-8 more parts to this kit. I haven't decided whether I am going to use the paper gaskets with FIPG or just FIPG on reassembly. :hmm:

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View attachment 1001680

Use the paper gasket, at least between the case halves and on the rear bearing retainer. They are part of the total length of the t-case and so they are part of the total preload on the output shaft bearings. Deleting the paper gasket would mean starting from scratch with the preload shim, and having to be much thinner than stock.

Do not use FIPG, too hard to work with in this instance. Paint the case halves with aviation permatex #3.
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To install rear bearing retainer, paint retainer w/ #3, paint the case w/ oil or grease. Assemble & check preload. If it needs to come apart to change preload shim, the gasket will stay glued on the retainer, aligned & protected by the alignment shoulder.

HTH
 
As always Jim, sage advice sir.

These are the correct sized plugs if you delete the rear heater from under your passenger front seat.

They fit from inside the can as well as from below. About 25.5mm in diameter.

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Also got a few pics of a newly powdercoatrd and drying split case from Smoking Gun powder coating in Decatur.

Looking awesome.

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Bearing from Georg arrived as did the new idler shaft and some other knick knacks for the split case.

Plan is to assemble into the H55F on Friday.

:cheers:
 
purdy paint!
 
I wish I could find the floor plug for the 62 rear heater delete. Can't wait for you to drive it to hot springs.


John: These plugs will work for your 62 as well.

Looking forward to a nice road trip... Actually a trip to Hot Springs to "break her in" might not be a bad idea.

:hmm:
 
Really enjoying the progress. Looking good!

Why the PC on the T-case? Is it just clear?
 
Why the PC on the T-case? Is it just clear?

Looks like it to me!

Looks great with the clear PC!!! You'll really, really like how well it cleans up as it gets dirty in the future.

Dan
 

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