Builds Pappy's 3RZ Adventure

pappy

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I've been looking for a 3RZ for probably 5 years, mostly at my local U-Pull. They have had a few 2RZ Tacomas, but never a 3RZ in anything. Recently I decided to suck it up and start watching the local full-service boneyards. Last week, there was a "new arrival" at one of the yards. A very wrecked 2WD 1998 4Runner. I went. I looked. It was pretty messed up and I could see lots of damage to the engine. I had them give me a quote, and they agreed to sawsall the engine out so I could get a closer look.

While I was waiting for them to perform surgery on the 4Runner I did a little homework on the truck. On the quote was the VIN. This truck started out its life in Texas. Over the course of its life it never once, ever, saw a Toyota dealer for service. In fact, the only service on the Carfax was only after it appeared in New Mexico. The truck had around 250K miles on it.

They called. I went back. I looked again. The damage was bad, but nothing I couldn't fix. So, I bought. Yesterday, with the help of a few buddies, that engine came home. Yesterday and today I stripped everything off the long block. Now, I wait.

Because of this little thing called "budget" this is going to be a long term project. If I'm going to go through all the effort to drop this between the rails of my 4Runner I want it to stay there for a long time. Which means rebuilding and base-lining. I intend on taking care of anything that would be easy to fix with the engine out, and a challenge to fix once it's installed. So, let the journey begin. Here are the required pics.

First, the damage.

Four Js 1998 4Runner (1)_sm.jpg


Oil pan_sm.jpg


Crank pulley_sm.jpg


Thermostat housing_sm.jpg
 

pappy

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They wrapped this thing up tight, so I was unable to make sure everything was there. It wasn't, but I took care of that this morning. It's a known issue with this engine that the exhaust manifold cracks. Mine was not an exception. No big deal. I'll replace with the mini-header installed in 2001+ Tacomas. Same with the oil pan since I need to install a pan from a T100.


wrapped up.jpg



exhaust manifold.jpg


Here is the engine after getting it unwrapped and on the engine stand.

Engine before cutting.jpg
 
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pappy

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After spending time with the engine last night, and again this morning it's down to the basic long block. For chuckles I did pop off the rocker arm cover to take a peek. I was very pleased. So clearly this engine had received some maintenance. And, for the record ... the screws that hold on the oil pump cover SUCK - SUCK - SUCK. I had to drill out 5 of the 9.

Drivers side stripped.jpg


passanger side stripped.jpg



camshafts.jpg
 

KLF

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Nicely done. Wow that engine got whacked in that wreck. Good luck and Godspeed, I will be watching this thread closely.
 

Mudder

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Not what I wanted to hear about the screws. I'm happy to see another 3rz thread, it'll be perfection for sure.
 
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Man all these awesome 3RZ swaps got me drooling over the idea. Will keep an eye on your progress.
 

pappy

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Man all these awesome 3RZ swaps got me drooling over the idea. Will keep an eye on your progress.

Well, this thread will be interrupted by cobwebs and crickets. At least until this summer when the budget improves.
 

ToyotaMatt

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Gumby

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Those oil pump screws are pretty similar to 1FZ-FE oil pumps. very localized heat, an impact driver and, usually, a drill is required to get them out. My front pulley doesn't want to seat all the way in. I'm afraid I'll have to pull my oil pump too.
 

pappy

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Those oil pump screws are pretty similar to 1FZ-FE oil pumps. very localized heat, an impact driver and, usually, a drill is required to get them out. My front pulley doesn't want to seat all the way in. I'm afraid I'll have to pull my oil pump too.

I was using one of those hand impacts you smack with a hammer. It worked great when I did my FJ40. It only stripped those screws on the 3RZ. The drill was my friend and actually worked pretty good. Putting it on record, a 1/4" bit is what I used and it was perfect. The screws are only $1.09 list at Toyota and I'm going to replace all nine. When I pulled the oil pump cover off the gasket underneath was about as stiff as coat hanger wire.

I wonder if you cocked the woodruff key. It's way back there.
 
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My dad just rebuilt the 3RZ for his ‘97 Tacoma. Always liked that engine, too bad about the exhaust manifold issue. It cracked the head on my dad’s engine, cause for the rebuild. Always thought a turbo would be sweet.
 

pappy

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Gumby

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I was using one of those hand impacts you smack with a hammer. It worked great when I did my FJ40. It only stripped those screws on the 3RZ. The drill was my friend and actually worked pretty good. Putting it on record, a 1/4" bit is what I used and it was perfect. The screws are only $1.09 list at Toyota and I'm going to replace all nine. When I pulled the oil pump cover off the gasket underneath was about as stiff as coat hanger wire.

I wonder if you cocked the woodruff key. It's way back there.


That's my guess. I'm gonna pull the grill and see if I can see back there.

RockAuto has a kit with a pump, cover, gasket and new bolts.
 

pappy

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Why? Because sometimes bling really does matter. $3.53 list. Your price might be different. I might need to get another to keep my go-fast stickers company.

Engine plate.jpg
 

pappy

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Nice score. I love the spring loaded split gear to maintain zero lash between cam drive gears. Did you happen to measure valve clearance? Just curious as these are shim and bucket I bet most never get adjusted.

Based on my research on turbo kits (have not pulled the trigger) the stock injectors are very limited in terms of flow. So I think that's why they call it street/mild/5 PSI. I think 200 HP is the max with stock injectors (up from 150 stock?)
 
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My '96 Tacoma's 3RZ is weird. It was replaced at some point and has the cleanest oil when doing a change that I've seen out of any vehicle. So I don't know if this is a common thing or if we're just lucky. Mine is getting clackity from what sounds like the timing chain stretching so it'll need to get that done before long.
 
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My '96 Tacoma's 3RZ is weird. It was replaced at some point and has the cleanest oil when doing a change that I've seen out of any vehicle. So I don't know if this is a common thing or if we're just lucky. Mine is getting clackity from what sounds like the timing chain stretching so it'll need to get that done before long.

I have experience with Mazda 80s/90s vintage 4 cylinders that always still had color to the oil at 3,000 miles even on very high miles engines. My 3RZ acts the same way. With Mobil1 I usually push changes to about 4K miles and the oil is not close to full black. Tight motors.

Have you checked your valve clearance? These are solid lifter motors and should be checked every 60K.
 

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