What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (68 Viewers)

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It's surprising how effective the low tech cooling is.
Tell her to open her flaps on the highway at 60mph, things might get a bit hairy, but hey you'll cool down fast.
It was not built with AC and it is 47 years old so why do it now and I am running out of room with the R2.8 under the hood and I am not done. I tried a bikini top but put the snaps in the wrong place on the windshield frame and the wind would pop them off and the straps kept it from completely coming off.

Next time leave the top on
 
Safety first, make it last.

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I think I am going to install those rings in the dash. Can you please take a close up pic so I can see where I need to drill holes? Mine doesn’t have a divot or anything.

Also, I see you have the CC seat covers. My tears came in and they are slightly different in color from the front. Why would they do that?? Crazy.
 
I think I am going to install those rings in the dash. Can you please take a close up pic so I can see where I need to drill holes? Mine doesn’t have a divot or anything.

Also, I see you have the CC seat covers. My tears came in and they are slightly different in color from the front. Why would they do that?? Crazy.
$or seat covers f&r, at first I was rather heated but have since cooled and accepted it.

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$or seat covers f&r, at first I was rather heated but have since cooled and accepted it.

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Thanks. Any idea if the doors hit those when closed? I was going to put stainless rivnuts to mount mine so I could take them out just in case.
 
Thanks. Any idea if the doors hit those when closed? I was going to put stainless rivnuts to mount mine so I could take them out just in case.
I have no soft doors for it, and obviously hard doors will not fit, but I would have to assume that yes, they would interfere with hard doors.

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Rebuilt water pump came in today. FIPG 103 for both gaskets. Torqued the 4 bolts to 15 ft lbs.

Need to pick up one more clamp from Toyota as I broke one of the Yota clamps the other day. That will give the sealant time to adhere/dry and then I’ll fill it with water tomorrow…let it sit for a few days, drive it for a little bit and examine for leaks. Drain the block and radiator…then fill with coolant. The petcock that comes with the Yota radiator is clutch.

Toyota Radiator: 16400-49356
Thermostat for tall housing: 90916-03014
New hoses/gaskets/clamps

Fingers crossed that it doesn’t leak in 10 places when I fill it up. I’m a little nervous, but I torqued everything properly, used proper sealant, etc.

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Not to be negative but I have read posts where people have had issues with the glass or plastic fuel filters cracking over the exhaust manifold and having fires.

I recommend you relocate your fuel filter.
 
Drove the 40 out through the Ouachita Mountain today. 90 degrees and humid but a pleasant outing. The 40 purred like a kitten. Didn't do anything to it today, just enjoyed it.
 
It was not built with AC and it is 47 years old so why do it now and I am running out of room with the R2.8 under the hood and I am not done. I tried a bikini top but put the snaps in the wrong place on the windshield frame and the wind would pop them off and the straps kept it from completely coming off.

Next time leave the top on
Exactly; AC is just more to go wrong and makes it more complicated to fix everything else, and occupies a lot of useful cab space imho.

My South African import didn't even have a heater from the factory, so adding AC would just be silly.
 
Exactly; AC is just more to go wrong and makes it more complicated to fix everything else, and occupies a lot of useful cab space imho.

My South African import didn't even have a heater from the factory, so adding AC would just be silly.
Where I live a good heater is very important and AC is just a luxury.

I had to replace the heater in mine because the original blower is to big and needed the space for the battery, the new heater has the blower inside in the same space at the original heater.

When I when to SA and was working near Johannesburg during there winter season it was in the 30s in the morning and it was cool for me and the locals were cold. Don't remember any frost.
 
It was not built with AC and it is 47 years old so why do it now and I am running out of room with the R2.8 under the hood and I am not done. I tried a bikini top but put the snaps in the wrong place on the windshield frame and the wind would pop them off and the straps kept it from completely coming off.

Next time leave the top on
Her 69 Camaro She had did not have AC with a cracked carb that leaked fumes inside so bad I didn't like riding in it. The whole time She had it, it never ran right and at this altitude it took about 20 minuets before it would idle and run on its own before She could take it anywhere.
 
Before I decided to tear into the rear axle I mounted up a rear wheel on the spare tire carrier and was shocked it fit. About broke my back though, heavy and awkward.

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I think I am going to install those rings in the dash. Can you please take a close up pic so I can see where I need to drill holes? Mine doesn’t have a divot or anything.

Also, I see you have the CC seat covers. My tears came in and they are slightly different in color from the front. Why would they do that?? Crazy.
The oem rings for the door "safety" strap will interfere with the late model doors for sure. but you can just unscrew them when not in use. I installed them on my 1980 to be used when the hard top and doors are off. All the late models I've seen have a "Divit" where the earlier models had the nut on the back side but without a whole. Placement is easy in that respect but, getting a nut on the backside was a struggle with these big hands!! Had to cut two sides off of each nut and slip them in the thin slot on the tip of my finger then turn in the eye bolt. I put JB weld on the nut before installation to keep it on when I remove the bolts.

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So far its been 1 thing after another, l began prepping the inner tub for a coat of rust proofer followed by a coat of Raptor, and thought l'd deal with the side panels whilst l was at it as the paint was cracking & showing signs of rust coming through the filler, so l began sanding it back only to find the filler in some places was 5+mm thick... l've ground back to the metal & rust proofed the worst of it and l'm currently prepping it all before l black rust proof it then it'll get a respray at some point in the future. Meanwhile as l'm prepping for rustproofer l thought l'd also deal with the (internal) leaking clutch master cylinder fitted new last year, l bought a new TT repair kit & have spent 3 days trying to find the original cylinder..(those 'safe places' are a real pain to find, on the upside l found my blow torch l needed 2mths ago)..so the cylinder quest is ongoing.. l spoke with my mechanic & he says he gave it back to me & the new clutch master & slave cylinder l'd supplied was different than the original (the slave was 1/4' too narrow and he had to pack it to make it fit, l didn't recall him saying the master was also different, if l give up on my search for the original, l'll find out when l take it off & try to fit the HJ47 repair kit. l also discovered where 1 of the water leaks into the cab was coming from namely the front body seam below the windscreen/hood, thats now sealed & at some point l'll drop the windscreen forward a replace the frame rubber (l've a new piece to do it) and seal it... l've fitted the Wilson switch set up & it starts alot better. l thought winding down would give me time to do things at home.... Between the ute, house extension, decorating, greenhouse construction, shed building, log boxes, compost boxes..etc etc.....l'm now busier than l've been in years... :D
 
I copied from another Mud member and fabbed up a measurement jig to do my front wheel alignment. Standard toe in is 3-5 mm. I had about 5 mm toe out. All better now. Also adjusted the center steering arm.

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