What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (49 Viewers)

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77mustard40 said:
How did you apply it, spray on I assume
Click to expand...
After prep I used a roller then a paint brush for the tight spots.
One quart will do 2.5 coats I would say. Let dry for 24 hrs. in between.

The paint is "self leveling" and looks great fully cured.
PXL_20250205_223830822.jpg

Its not perfect, but for the cost and effort the results are impressive IMOP.
 
sterling said:
After prep I used a roller then a paint brush for the tight spots.
One quart will do 2.5 coats I would say. Let dry for 24 hrs. in between.

The paint is "self leveling" and looks great fully cured.
View attachment 3832630
Its not perfect, but for the cost and effort the results are impressive IMOP.
Click to expand...

Yeah that’s good enough for the firls I run with.
 
Been driving the hell out of her. Batting cage with the boy, not one other soul at the entire complex.
IMG_3622.jpeg


And chalk testing with the daughter.
IMG_3620.jpeg
 
Augustiron said:
^^pretty freeborn rig!

What wheels are those? They look like stock 15" steelies but wider with 12.5 tires??
Click to expand...
Are you tagging @sterling ?

Also, I was born in Grass Valley. You live in my childhood stomping grounds 👍🏽
 
sterling said:
After prep I used a roller then a paint brush for the tight spots.
One quart will do 2.5 coats I would say. Let dry for 24 hrs. in between.

The paint is "self leveling" and looks great fully cured.
View attachment 3832630
Its not perfect, but for the cost and effort the results are impressive IMOP.
Click to expand...
For the record…. I did the same thing 😎
IMG_1421.jpeg
 
sterling said:
After prep I used a roller then a paint brush for the tight spots.
One quart will do 2.5 coats I would say. Let dry for 24 hrs. in between.

The paint is "self leveling" and looks great fully cured.
View attachment 3832630
Its not perfect, but for the cost and effort the results are impressive IMOP.
Click to expand...
Damn thats nice
 
These are the plugs that came with the '75 2F motor currently in use. It has been on the road, and trail, since '20. I have like three sets of spark plugs, so they get service, then cleaned (left) and shelved. I'll let you guess what happened to the threaded portion for the one on the right...

rust.jpg



And, here is the PCV valve. I did a visual inspection on it when I swapped plugs. This engine has enough blow-by that moisture condenses in the valve, and makes an oil-water emulsion, I think.

20250205_144229.jpg
 
Grayscale said:
These are the plugs that came with the '75 2F motor currently in use. It has been on the road, and trail, since '20. I have like three sets of spark plugs, so they get service, then cleaned (left) and shelved. I'll let you guess what happened to the threaded portion for the one on the right...

View attachment 3832713


And, here is the PCV valve. I did a visual inspection on it when I swapped plugs. This engine has enough blow-by that moisture condenses in the valve, and makes an oil-water emulsion, I think.

View attachment 3832705
Click to expand...
Or a head gasket leak. Let's hope not.
 
sterling said:
After prep I used a roller then a paint brush for the tight spots.
One quart will do 2.5 coats I would say. Let dry for 24 hrs. in between.

The paint is "self leveling" and looks great fully cured.
View attachment 3832630
Its not perfect, but for the cost and effort the results are impressive IMOP.
Click to expand...
You recommended this for mine over a year ago, the stuff goes on easy and even, levels great and "skins" quickly so that bugs and debris can be flicked off after 24 hours.
 
Buffchief said:
Yesterday, flushed the system, primarily the engine block and installed a new radiator. There was some fairly nasty stuff that came out of the block drain when i removed it completely! Had it on a good angle and burped for about 30 min with heat on. Let the engine cool with the burp kit (funnel) in place for a couple of hours and it absorbed 90% of whet was left in the funnel. No more over heating !!! Oh, and I also changed out the temp sending unit.
Click to expand...

I finished up the OEM radiator install over the weekend too. I was going to go straight Mr. T. with the hoses but I've had (ancient) Goodyear Hi-Miler heater lines for years and have gotten used to the color so...

Nu Blu.JPG


It's a super-blingy Chinese silicone set off Ebay that I will probably regret but there it is. The seller was super helpful and made up a couple of one meter lengths of the matching 5/8" (16mm) heater line for just a few extra bucks. I drained 4 gallons from the block/system and 4 fresh gallons of roughly 60/40 went back in without issue. I used some decent SS clamps from HPS but there's lots of them out there that are just as good or better. No issues. No leaks. No Drama. :meh:

I rarely venture far from my purist's roots despite admiring all the amazing mods folks here do so this is a bit out of my comfort zone. The funny thing is: Blue is definitely not my favorite color.

The last piece of Hi-Miler headed for the bin after almost 30 years.
Goodyear Hi-Miler.JPG
 
Grayscale said:
I was low on coolant. However, it was leaking from where the heater hose attaches to the head. I tightened up the hose clamp, and I'll keep a close eye on it for a while. I don't suspect a head gasket issue.

Any other guesses?
Click to expand...

Well, you're not living in a swamp at that latitude but if you're not driving it a lot I guess condensation could be the culprit.

I had a head gasket issue on the wife's vehicle for, like, ever. It just very slowly lost coolant - like a cup every few weeks or so - and the oil was always dirty at 3K miles. I chalked that up to the engine having 150K on it. One morning, as she was pulling out of the drive, a cloud of steam came out of her exhaust pipe. That settled it and off came the head. In retrospect I should have known but you know what they say...

Denial is just a river in Egypt.
 
Last edited:
numby said:
Well, you're not living in a swamp at that latitude but if you're not driving it a lot I guess condensation could be the culprit.

I had a head gasket issue on the wife's vehicle for, like, ever. It just very slowly lost coolant - like a cup every few weeks or so - and the oil was always dirty at 3K miles. I chalked that up to the engine having 150K on it. One morning, as she was pulling out of the drive, a cloud of steam came out of her exhaust pipe. That settled it and off came the head. In retrospect I should have known but you know what they say...

Denial is just a river in Egypt.
Click to expand...
The emulsified-oil is only on the inside of the PCV valve. Maybe once, did it make enough water-oil emulsion to be seen in the crankcase, during an oil change. I drive it about twice a week, this time of year.

The spark plug, which is pitted (right, below), this one sports a layer of rust-pitting on the face of the thread. The 2F-type air cleaner assemblies don't protect the intake from water, and this one must have been outside for a while. It is amazing that the engine is even on the road after rusting from the inside!

rust.jpg
 
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