What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (43 Viewers)

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Im going to consider just ordering one from Classic Cruisers and remove the rain gutter on the one I have currently considering it’s in really good shape from what I can tell.
mine looked in similar condition........ I filled scratches and holes w epoxy, sanded smooth, then did the cygnus white version of monstaliner on top. Not sleek and glossy, but w a rack under it I feel it works.
 
Where the holes are in the top along the front, are there supposed to be rivets in those locations? I have what look like rivet heads trying to pop through the top of my roof in those same spots.
 
The holes are for mounting part 14 here to the hardtop;
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@cims1970fj40 I don’t know exactly what else needs repair from that photo. Based on that, if it’s the holes and a fresh gelcoat, look up Gougeon Brothers West System epoxies. This material comes in many viscosities and applications and if you’re not hesitant about a little sanding…you can probably get this done for under $250.

I did a 36’ boat with ZERO knowledge of how it all works but, I did some embedded balsa as a stiffener, epoxy and spray gelcoat..that boat is over 25 years old now and that repair looks factory. They offer all kinds of free instruction and you may find it super helpful

I could be way off on suggesting this but $2200 sound like a lot and worth giving it a shot
 
Finally got to drive this beautiful 40 for the first time! I can honestly say it is the most fun vehicle I have ever driven.
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There are some states where land cruisers and their numbers are plentiful and people meet regularly to enjoy the uniqueness of their pride and joy.
New Jersey ain’t one of them…. It should be in the 40’s this time of year, I have several projects to do and ….i’m chomping at the bit to get started. Instead I’m stuck inside… by the way, Check this out



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@cims1970fj40 I don’t know exactly what else needs repair from that photo. Based on that, if it’s the holes and a fresh gelcoat, look up Gougeon Brothers West System epoxies. This material comes in many viscosities and applications and if you’re not hesitant about a little sanding…you can probably get this done for under $250.

I did a 36’ boat with ZERO knowledge of how it all works but, I did some embedded balsa as a stiffener, epoxy and spray gelcoat..that boat is over 25 years old now and that repair looks factory. They offer all kinds of free instruction and you may find it super helpful

I could be way off on suggesting this but $2200 sound like a lot and worth giving it a shot
I’m going to be running a soft top on the cruiser so I have plenty of time to work on the cap if I decide to do it myself. However I did see some rust but not rotted through on the inside lip of the rain gutter so I’m thinking to remove the rivets and blast the gutter and possibly powder coat it.
 
I’m going to be running a soft top on the cruiser so I have plenty of time to work on the cap if I decide to do it myself. However I did see some rust but not rotted through on the inside lip of the rain gutter so I’m thinking to remove the rivets and blast the gutter and possibly powder coat it.
If I lived closer I’d stop by and give you a hand….once you do some Fiberglas stuff it gets to be fun, easy and the end result is very satisfying. Good luck
 
Picked up the hardtop roof from the individual I bought it at the beginning of the year and took it to my dad’s to store it. On the way to my dad’s I stopped to get quotes for fiberglass repair. One shop was going to email me an estimate ( which hasn’t happened yet) and the other said $2200 which is I believe really over priced.

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Man, that is not a big deal. You can do it yourself.
SPI is the makes the strongest epoxy primer and is used by almost all corvette
restorers and the company is owned by a legendary corvette guy.
their epoxy primer will seal all of that and is actually stronger than gel coat.


That is cracked gel coat, If it was me I would"
  1. sand it out but don't break into the fiber.
  2. I would then sand a bit deeper around the cracking
  3. buy SPI epoxy 2 k primer and their water born cleaner.
  4. wash with borax and let dry in the sun for a day
  5. clean with SPI water born cleaner
  6. spray 4 wet coats of SPI epoxy
  7. let it cure in the sun for a day
  8. put body filler right no top of SPI epoxy
  9. sand
  10. prime with SPI high build sandable 2k primer
  11. paint with SPI single stage white.
 
Finally got to drive this beautiful 40 for the first time! I can honestly say it is the most fun vehicle I have ever driven.
I would suspect that there’s a bit of where you’re driving this rig that adds to the fun meter pegging as well, but that’s a great resto 👍. Or I guess it should be 🤙.
 
Retro sound radio and 4” speakers in the doors. Not a big sound but enough to get by
 
Wheel alignment check…
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Push pin method:
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Started with two pins 14” off the ground at the back of both front wheels.
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Drove forward 1/2 a revolution so the pins were 14” off the ground again.
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By my eye +/- 3mm.

Given that since the 40 was last on the road it has a new rebuilt front end, new TREs, castor shims, and extended shackles, I’d expected it would need some finessing… :D

Given the target was 3mm toe in, I’ll leave this well enough alone till I’ve got some miles on the new setup.
 
Big progress day today. I’ll hit the highlights
- finished up seat recoverings and installed
- bled front brakes and master cyl (capped rear because I don’t have the right flex line) my 9 year old ram the pedal for me. His first time bleeding brakes, proud dad moment.
- installed lower radiator hose
- installed original front bumper
- filled transmission fluid
- filled cooling system
- put 5gal of gas in
- started it
- filled power steering
- DROVE IT AROUND THE YARD WITH THE FAMILY, first time it’s has moved under its own power since probably 2004

So close to being able to drive this thing.

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