What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (19 Viewers)

[Augustiron]

Thank you - Raptor liner that was slightly thinned and then sprayed on.

Thanks, I will research that, any quick how to.or tips?
Also color matched to your paint or off the shelf color?

I am redoing my freeborn red 40 and want to line the floors and wheel wells with a mild texture to protect it.

 

[65swb45]

Pulled the instrument cluster to change out a speedo with a non-functioning odometer. Could have tried to fix the odometer, but with 80 more on the shelf, I was just lazy. Probably send the old one out to @JVZii for a refresh.

Took the opportunity to swap out my vacuum gauge that was still functional, but the needle was starting to stick on.

 

[steffan]

Thanks, I will research that, any quick how to.or tips?
Also color matched to your paint or off the shelf color?

I am redoing my freeborn red 40 and want to line the floors and wheel wells with a mild texture to protect it.

Thanks, I will research that, any quick how to.or tips?
Also color matched to your paint or off the shelf color?

I am redoing my freeborn red 40 and want to line the floors and wheel wells with a mild texture to protect it.

This almost exactly how I did it:
I had the color matched

 

[kbahus]

Driving home the other day I glanced down at the gauges and saw...

...THAT I HAD ZERO OIL PRESSURE!!!

I pulled over immediately.This happened once before after I had the engine out and didn't get the connector to the sending unit back on correctly. I hoped it was the same thing after changing out all the hoses. It wasn't. This time the connector broke off completely.

View attachment 3850974

Ten minutes and a new brass connector was crimped on. I use this tool but there may be better options available. I like it because it's a no-frills option. Packard Electric 086285847.

http://texasindustrialelectric.com/6285847_tools.asp

Packard Electric Hand Crimping Tool #06285847 – TZSupplies.com

Find Packard Electric Hand Crimping Tool #06285847 in Niles, Michigan, United States, for US $29.95. Packard Electric Hand Crimping Tool #06285847, Will Crimp Packard Male & Female Terminals 20-14 Gauge, A multi-use hand crimper, This one will crimp many Delphi terminals Packard 56 Series...

www.tzsupplies.com

Semi-float rear diff locker options: ARB, Detroit, Auburn, or a lunchbox. That's it. There's no e-locker available until you go full float.

Talk about ptsd, I had this happen to my very first 40 shortly after messing around with the sender. I hit a bump and the oil pressure went to zero and I kept driving because I was convinced the connector was at fault. Well it wasn’t and the motor locked up a few miles later.

 

[numby]

I am interested in exactly how you disassembled the connector. I have tried a couple different approaches and haven't found the locking clip yet. Also, where did you get the new connector?

To disassemble you insert a small flat bladed tool into the front of the plastic housing and depress a small tang. The connector can then be removed from the rear where the wire comes in. The tang (or tab) is on the top of the metal connector. You can see the old connector laying on the positive battery post cover but it's flipped over. There's a small relief in the front of the plastic housing the shape of the tool. You can sometimes get away with a paper clip or the like. Start by pushing the wire and connector further forward into the plastic housing from the wire end to relieve any stress, insert the tool, and pull everything out the back. Took me a couple of hours to figure it out about 30 years ago before there was the internet. HTH


Adding here that this is not a standard female blade connector. In the grainy pic from my flippin' fone you can see the tab and that there is an extra folded over section that applies pressure to whatever it's sliding on to. This ones for 14-16ga. wire. The oil pressure line feels like an 18ga. to me. @Coolerman should have what you're looking for.

 

[MatthewMcD]

To disassemble you insert a small flat bladed tool into the front of the plastic housing and depress a small tang. The connector can then be removed from the rear where the wire comes in. The tang (or tab) is on the top of the metal connector. You can see the old connector laying on the positive battery post cover but it's flipped over. There's a small relief in the front of the plastic housing the shape of the tool. You can sometimes get away with a paper clip or the like. Start by pushing the wire and connector further forward into the plastic housing from the wire end to relieve any stress, insert the tool, and pull everything out the back. Took me a couple of hours to figure it out about 30 years ago before there was the internet. HTH


Adding here that this is not a standard female blade connector. In the grainy pic from my flippin' fone you can see the tab and that there is an extra folded over section that applies pressure to whatever it's sliding on to. This ones for 14-16ga. wire. The oil pressure line feels like an 18ga. to me. @Coolerman should have what you're looking for.

View attachment 3852761

Thanks for the clear explanation! I’ll give it another try!

 

[65swb45]

To disassemble you insert a small flat bladed tool into the front of the plastic housing and depress a small tang. The connector can then be removed from the rear where the wire comes in. The tang (or tab) is on the top of the metal connector. You can see the old connector laying on the positive battery post cover but it's flipped over. There's a small relief in the front of the plastic housing the shape of the tool. You can sometimes get away with a paper clip or the like. Start by pushing the wire and connector further forward into the plastic housing from the wire end to relieve any stress, insert the tool, and pull everything out the back. Took me a couple of hours to figure it out about 30 years ago before there was the internet. HTH


Adding here that this is not a standard female blade connector. In the grainy pic from my flippin' fone you can see the tab and that there is an extra folded over section that applies pressure to whatever it's sliding on to. This ones for 14-16ga. wire. The oil pressure line feels like an 18ga. to me. @Coolerman should have what you're looking for.

View attachment 3852761

I think I figured it out about the same time you did Chris. I used one of those 12v tester probes that has a really fine point for stabbing through wire insulation to test circuits.

BTW, I dropped off your package at the post office yesterday.

 

[65swb45]

I installed a refurbished wiper motor in the Karma Cruiser today. The original one stopped working a few months ago. Luckily, I had @thundermcawesum setme up with one a few years ago, so I was able to do a reasonably quick swap.

Reasonably because first I had to make sure it wasn’t a connector issue at the motor, which meant replacing both the nylon plugs in the harness and the old motor. I’ve had the nylon plugs on the shelf for over a decade, and don't remember where I got them. Then when the motor still didn’t work, I couldn’t brush off the incredibly slight possibility that I had bumped the switch wiring when I was working on the choke cable directly above it a few weeks ago. That meant loosening the front heater again so I could put my hand up there on the plug. All good.

So I cleaned the windshield where it hadn’t been cleaned since 1969, cleaned up the hardware, fished around for some better insulators to go between the motor and the frame (another perk of owning the store) and reassembled.

It is now officially the cleanest part of the truck!

 

[thundermcawesum]

I installed a refurbished wiper motor in the Karma Cruiser today. The original one stopped working a few months ago. Luckily, I had @thundermcawesum setme up with one a few years ago, so I was able to do a reasonably quick swap.

Reasonably because first I had to make sure it wasn’t a connector issue at the motor, which meant replacing both the nylon plugs in the harness and the old motor. I’ve had the nylon plugs on the shelf for over a decade, and don't remember where I got them. Then when the motor still didn’t work, I couldn’t brush off the incredibly slight possibility that I had bumped the switch wiring when I was working on the choke cable a few weeks ago. That meant loosening the front heater again so I could put my hand up there on the plug. All good.

So I cleaned the windshield where it hadn’t been cleaned since 1969, cleaned up the hardware, fished around for some better insulators to go between the motor and the frame (another perk of owning the store) and reassembled.
View attachment 3853030
It is now officially the cleanest part of the truck!

Glad to help! Is it running ok?

 

[65swb45]

Glad to help! Is it running ok?

Why wouldn’t it?

Two speeds and park. The first two passes on the first test, it didn’t park. But every subsequent test as I went through the process of orienting the arms/blades where I like them, it all worked fine.

 

[thundermcawesum]

Why wouldn’t it?

Two speeds and park. The first two passes on the first test, it didn’t park. But every subsequent test as I went through the process of orienting the arms/blades where I like them, it all worked fine.

Haha quite right. Just making sure.

 

[JVZii]

Pulled the instrument cluster to change out a speedo with a non-functioning odometer. Could have tried to fix the odometer, but with 80 more on the shelf, I was just lazy. Probably send the old one out to @JVZii for a refresh.View attachment 3852586View attachment 3852997

Took the opportunity to swap out my vacuum gauge that was still functional, but the needle was starting to stick on.

Sure send it my way. I can get you fixed up

 

[dazerb]

Some new OEM goodness from CruiserMatt's Off-Road & Performance - https://cruisermatts.com/
Great service, great pricing. Very happy. Shipped well, packed well.

New gas tank swap in, taking out the poly tank. All new soft line. Blowing out the hard line. Have had constant fuel delivery problems and some black chunks in the filter.

New clutch master and slave. Original turned 50 and sometimes loses pressure when it's cold. No leaks, must be internal.

All new radiator hoses and fan belt. For the cruise Moab kit. Have extra fuel pump, filter, birfs, coolant, ...

And shims for the front axle. Post OME2.5.

 

[sleepycruiser]

@cruisermatt Do you have all of the coolant hoses for a 1964 FJ40? I can send pics as I have the tall thermostat housing.

 

[cruisermatt]

@cruisermatt Do you have all of the coolant hoses for a 1964 FJ40? I can send pics as I have the tall thermostat housing.

There are some later hoses we substitue/cut for pre-67 stuff but yes we can help!

 

[Jdc1]

@Chungas Revenge finally caved and let us fix his steering wheel. I’ve got the small parts in the ultrasonic cleaner getting a bath before final assembly.

 

[knuckle47]

@Chungas Revenge finally caved and let us fix his steering wheel. I’ve got the small parts in the ultrasonic cleaner getting a bath before final assembly.

View attachment 3853931View attachment 3853932

Had I not spent hours stitching the @Aloha Jen leather steering wheel cover on my ‘75, I’d love to have this finish on mine. It’s really inviting to touch. I’ll leave it at that

 

[wchevron]

What do you use as a cleaning solution in the ultrasonic cleaner?

 

[Jdc1]

What do you use as a cleaning solution in the ultrasonic cleaner?

So far Zep degreaser and this his just a little Dawn and water.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

So far Zep degreaser and this his just a little Dawn and water.

Sounds similar to my tumbler recipe. I add a little “Lemi shine” instead of Zep for the brass.